jensenracing77

Allan, I am very glad to see you back. I am going to go with a cast iron grey for the sway bar I think. I took the 2 sway bars and rear end housing to the powdercoater with the frame. after I got them back i realized I had not planned to do those parts. I have no idea what I was thinking when I took them. I was going to paint it like this. Now that the rear end is powder coated I am going to use it this way. I would like the bottom of the car to look like it would have before the black out process and not black it out. I am not a professional so it would not likely be exactly right anyway.

jensenracing77

Pulled the A/C box and the remaining parts from under the dash. Still need to pull the A/C parts from the kick panel area.

I had no idea that the rear speaker wire went behind the firewall insulation.

davebw31

AllanR: I stand corrected! Got to thinking about it more and you are right.

Allan R

So does the rear defog wiring (purple) and that grey fisher lead for the lighted mirror option (just the mirror option lead runs above the fuse box. That wide black reinforced tape works really well BTW - it's a beeatch to get loose sometimes. Likely they thought the thick jute under the carpet and firewall insulation would protect the wire from any of the stompin Tom's riding shotgun?

I was also surprised to see that where it comes through the rear body there was no protective grommet or insulation to prevent chaffing on the raw metal.

briane

Eric,

Did your W30 have the sound deadener mats under all the carpet? I see it under the rear seat in one of your photos. Can some enlighten me as to what materials were left off of W30 and W31 cars?

Thanks

jensenracing77

That is a good question? I have stripped many cars and even had several W-30s apart over the years and never could tell a difference in the sound deadener or any seam sealer or anything. Most of the W-30s I ever had apart were A/C cars so maybe that has something to do with it. The insulation panel behind the back seat was not there on this car but I have also seen a couple original cutlass's that never had one.

Allan R

Interesting topic. My 72 only had jute back insulation under the carpet and sound insulation on the firewall. There was no sound deadener under the headliner or behind the rear seat. Kind of wondered why since it really doesn't take that long to install and it really makes a difference in acoustics in the car.

briane

So Eric I gather you had the mastic insulation under all of your carpet. But Allen didn't in his '72. I asked earlier if you had the factory undercoating in your rear wheel wells. I forget what you told us, I have to look back through this thread. So except for the cardboard absent behind the rear seat, what is the "reduced sound deadener" the factory states in the '70 W-machine brochure?

I'm working on a W31 but it has been worked on by people before me so I can't really trust it as a reference.

jensenracing77

I think Kurt (w_machine) would be better to answer that. I am sure there is a defferance but I can't really tell what it is. This car was never under coated.

jensenracing77

Level one restorations was looking at the Jetfire and we got talking about this car. I think they have talked me into leaving this as a stripe delete car for a while after I get it done. The stripes will be over the top of the clear anyway so i can add them later. If the price is not to bad I will likely have them put the stripes on for me when I decide to do them. I have decided for sure what color the stripes will be. I have been on the fence on this for a while but made the decision for sure last night. They will be blue.

davebw31

As far as I know only W-31 s did no have undercoating in the rear quarter inner wheel well! To confirm, my "Brass Hat" 70' F-85 W-31 that I saw built both at Fisher and Lansing, and my current 70' F85 W-31, both did not have undercoating.

briane

Thanks Dave for that insight. Was there any other sound deadening materials that were deleted?

Eric--Dark blue with lighter blue stripes sounds great. I've seen pin-striped cars with that combination and I really liked it.

jensenracing77

More parts came in today. I sent the steering gear and pump to http://www.powersteering.com/ to be rebuild/restored. I got it rebuilt to the original ratio. I didn't want to upgrade anything here. I would like this car to handle like it did originally. I like the one finger steering.

also got the timing set today. Thanks to Mark (cutlassefi)

jensenracing77

I got a little more done today. Back brakes are on and rear end is in.

jensenracing77

Lots of delays...... I am taking the engine and parts to the machine shop in the morning to be squared machined and balanced. I love assembling engines but he said when he squares/blueprints an engine he only charges $175 to assemble the short block. I am still not sure if i will have him do it or not. Hard not to let him do it for only $175.

jensenracing77

The engine parts are at the machine shop and I stopped at the body guys shop today. I told the body guy I was ready to be put on his list. He should be ready for me by the end of the year.

He showed me 2 paint jobs while I was there. One was a "like factory" paint job and the other was a top of the line paint job. I know it won't be "correct" but I think I am going to go with the smoother high end job.

jensenracing77

Working on the windshield wiper motor and got the booster and other gold cad parts back. I don't like how the wiper motor is turning out. I think I am going to send the bottom motor cap off to be silver cad plated.

The booster came back and not sure i like it. I didn't think the pitting was as bad as it is. after the plating it looks pretty bad. To late now. I am not sure if I will use it or not. It is original to the car but I may consider another option.

ent72olds

Wow Eric! I have fallen behind here on your thread....looks great, and good choice having the frame powder coated! Keep up the good work but slow down.....you are catching up to me! I agree with you on the booster and mc cap.....

Allan R

The WW motor looks just fine; maybe just spray some semi gloss clear over it and call it done. Not sure why you plated the shift linkage though?? If you have another brake booster without pitting, that could be a candidate for a rebuild/plate. It all depends on whether you're going for show condition. If not, I'd put the original back in and call it 'aged'... Most of the pitting will be hidden by the MC anyway, except for that upper left section. Most peeps aren't going to notice it IMO

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Eric,

Did you rebuild the diff on your own? It looks finger lickin' good.

I'm working with Jim on figuring out a Posi for my cutlass and i plan on doing the rebuild myself over the winter.

jensenracing77

I have seen many of these linkages that were gold cad. Most of them were on 72 model years. This one was on this car and after I cleaned the dirt off I could tell it was gold in some spots. The rod going to the column was painted on most cars I have taken apart.

I am close to a year from needing the booster so i will think about what i am doing with it. With shipping and plating it will be $200 to do another one. I hate to skimp on this with it being such a visible part. Maybe I will put it on the Rallye 350 or sell it and do another one for this car?

Allan R

Interesting, that's why I asked. My 72 wasn't gold, it was painted black. When I blasted it I decided to just clear it because I liked the look. Also did the starter brace and positive battery clamp tube & attaching bracket at the same time.

jensenracing77

Thanks,

I done most of it. I took it apart, cleaned and had it powder coated. I had a local guy press the bearings and set the pinion and carrier. After that I put it all together and painted the parts.

jensenracing77

Most cars i take apart have some thick paint on spots of them. (I am assuming from the black out process) When I clean that thick stuff off, many times I can see some gold. Don't to often see any gold in the weathered areas of the linkage.

TK-65

I had one done and it was pitted, couldnt use it. I found a guy on ebay in Canada that sold really nice replated units. Bought one and its perfect.

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Now i want a W-30,

Or maybe a rallye 350 since i know my way around a 350 pretty well now.

Thanks alot guys... lol

Tony72Cutlass'S'

that's the EXACT timing set i bought, it's awesome.

Lined up the dots, degreed the cam, BOOM, perfect timing.

jensenracing77

Starting to have some things come together so i can work on it again. Greg from Sparky's carb service called and he is sending me a large amount of my bolts back that he has done. What he is sending me will allow me to get the front suspension done and most of the chassis.

My transmission guy called and said he had my transmission done. They soda blasted it and was able to keep most of the factory markings on the case. I am not going to repaint the markings. All the paint is gone from the OW tag but most of it was gone to begin with. At least the stamping on the tag is still good and original.

brddg

Curious as to how consistent the factory was on this. When I got my 442 there was no backdrive linkage. I was fortunate to come across two '70 donor cars at that point of my restoration, neither of those were cad plated and had no evidence of ever being painted. I did paint the first one but after I got the second I decided to vat it and install it natural finish. Will my car be mocked for this oversight?

jensenracing77

Not likely. I am not sure you would even have trouble at a National event for it. Only reason Mine went back to gold was because the guy that did the booster only charged me $10 to do the linkage and metering valve bracket.

On the other hand, I have never seen a 4 speed back drive or shifter linkage that was gold from the factory. I see most repop linkages are gold and I know I have had three 4 speed cars that were not gold originally.

brddg

And now that I think of it one of the donor cars had a white pivot bushing while the next one had a black pivot bushing!? Maybe it is fortunate that we don't actually have "rubber stamped" cars......

Dave Siltman

The backdrive linkage on my '72 4-speed was NOT gold cad. And......for what it is worth, the "new" boosters that all of the parts houses offer are JUNK. They may work as intended, but they look like CRAP in my opinion. I see many high-dollar cars with the cheap imported boosters and shake my head. The little "triangles" on the originals are not as "cleanly" pressed as the "Mickey Mouse" ones. Take a look on eBay at some of the "restored" cars, and then compare those boosters to an original----you will see what I mean.
Eric, IMO, I'd rather see a perfect one on your "W", but a replated pitted original is lightyears ahead of a cheap one. Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!

jensenracing77

I have decided to put this one on my Rallye 350 and send him another one. I dug through a pile of them today and found a nice one. I wonder how hard it is to take the cover off? The back part is the part that has the date on it. I could put a nice front on this correct dated rear section. I typically would not be worried about date codes but this car was still intact enough that it had almost all it's original parts still on it. I hate to mess that up now.

TK-65

From looking at the assembly manual there was/is a tool to use to get them open.

brddg

Your thread is a year old now. Happy aniversary!

Dave Siltman

I know they can be rebuilt----somehow. I have a pit-free one myself, but not looking to get rid of it. Hey Eric......still looking for the "right" Rallye 350 should you see one.

stevengerard

Maybe have the guy you are sending it to take the back off the first one and put it on the nice one you found. Since your car is apart now it makes sense to me to go with an original. But I admit even though my original is stored away you can't beat the quick inexpensive conveninece of a repo. When my booster went out it meant either waiting 3-5 weeks to get rebuilt or 2 days and $110 bucks to get it back on the road.

jensenracing77

I will likely have to sell mine in time. I don't plan to sell this W-30 but there is a guy that said he will make me an offer on it after it is done. I told him it is not for sale. He can afford ANYTHING he wants so if he gets silly I will sell the W-30 and keep the Rallye. He would have to get VERY silly for me to let it go) If he don't get the W-30 then the Rallye will have to go even if my girls don't want me to. I have been doing some work on it to have it ready to sell if i do. When and if I make the decision to sell the Rallye I will likely try to move it fast enough to not change my mind.

Tony72Cutlass'S'

what do restored rallye's go for now-a-days?

11971four4two

hey mister eric
nice

try to keep the beast as original