I got the wiper motor back yesterday and got it installed today. They put straight nipple outlet on the pump and my car had a 90 degree nipple outlet on it. I may change it. All my parts cars also have 90s on them. I changed the wire routing after i took this picture. I ran the A/C harness to the fan relay behind the wiper motor.

Still have to change out the fan clutch, Install the heater hoses, and run a couple vacuum lines. Also need an intake manifold bolt. One of mine that goes into the loop needs to be just a slight bit longer. The head had the first two threads bad in that hole and with the loop and washer, I need just a little longer bolt. Anyone have one?

 

Also installed the tank today and test fit the air cleaner. I got an aftermarket tank and straps. I would love to have used the original tank but I would have never got it looking good enough. I will start on a fan clutch tonight. The fill end of the tank had the cap soldered on at the wrong angle. I unsoldered it and moved it so the gas cap would not be at an angle and resoldered it.

You don't have to say it Joe, I already know. And yes, I want to add it real bad....

 

You guys realize that one summer of driving will get everything dirty, don't you????

 

I have not even had it out of the garage and it is dirty.

 

Awesome progress! Who did the wiper motor and what did it cost? looks great

Sean

 

Wow, just great work, really nice.

 

Did you put the wiper motor decal on?

 

Thanks guys,

These people did it. http://www.wiperrestore.com/category...or-restoration After I got it back I changed the mounting bushings. It was also missing the rubber seal on the back side. I had an NOS wiper motor for a 76 olds 98 that got wet and ruined sometime in its history and robbed the rubber parts from it. Also used the brass ground strap from the NOS motor. Pricy at $250. I took it apart and sure i could have got it together correct but for my first time i did not want to have it on my car. I did not want to risk having to pull it later if i did something wrong.

 

Not yet. I want to test it before I add the decal. If i add the decal now it will for sure not work, lol.

 

Such an attitude you have. Be positive.

 

The exhaust is not tight. I will have to install the back bumper and adjust all of it then tighten it all down.

I need 3.23 guts for the W-27 if i was going to put it in.

 

lol, I am positive. I am positive that it won't work if i add the decal now

 

Dang Eric! Just catching up after being away. I thought you said at the start of this thing it was going to take awhile? You are making great progress. And the quality of work is Awsome.

 

Steve Hackel is the absolute best for wiper motors.


http://restorationservice.net/

 

If I had to do it over i would have used him. I did not know about him till after I sent mine in. I like how mine turned out but thought for the price it would have had new rubber parts.

 

I have all my light blue parts done. It matches the factory color perfect. I have enough to do another console if someone needs one done.

 

My legendary order came in today. I am very pleased with the quality! I do have a couple issues. The seat backs came in broken. I see no signs of damage to the box but they had no padding inside the box and was shaking around inside. Also give me the light blue package tray and that should be dark blue on the light blue interior. I am missing my headrest covers and sun visors. I will have to call them tomorrow and see what they say.

 

Eric I think I missed which paint you used, looks great btw, not that I am ready to paint Iinterior parts but we all have dreams

 

Kolor Korect is who I got the paint from. They are not cheep but have a great match to factory colors. They supply Legendary Auto Interiors with there paint.

 

Wow Eric, it is moving right along! Beautiful work so far!👏

 

Thanks, I hadn't planned to be this far this soon but we decided to take it to the nationals so I figure i had best not procrastinate. If something comes up I won't take a short cut but for the most part I have everything I need. The only big issue may be my chrome and stainless parts. The guy that has them is very good and very slow. I took them to him in November and hope to get them back before May.

 

Took the car to Historic Motor Cars in Terre Haute Indiana yesterday to get the headliner installed. While it is away I decided to get the window regulators and door guts cleaned up and finish the console.

I thought i was going to have to replace one of the back regulators because it was real notchy when rolling up and down. Turned out to have a metal shaving in the gear mechanism. After getting that out it works great. Still have to grease up the springs and gear area. The springs will rub together and make lots of noise and stick while rolling up and down if you don't grease them.

Also mostly finished the console. I do not have the Dual Gate top plate back from the chrome shop yet but other than that I think I am done with the console. I would like to have gotten the back lined up just a little better but it is as good as it will get without bending the hinge.

 

eric your console and interior parts look very good I like the way the paint finish looks and the color. maybe post a pic of your tire tag on the door

 

Thanks. I am holding off from installing the decals till I am done or mostly done with the car. I have installed the parts id tags but not the trunk or door and under hood decals.

Thanks for the tire pressure decal! Looks great!

 

Eric:
Man your car looks nice! It should be in a museum - LOL. How did you clean up your window regulators? Were they very rusty? Did you soak them or have to media blast them? I need to clean up a used set of power regulators for my project and not sure I want to blast them. I'm worried about the media getting stuck in the all the moving parts and blasting may remove any protective coatings - I don't want to get 'em all purty and have 'em start rusting away. What kind of grease did you use to lubricate after cleaning? Thanks!

Rodney

 

I was lucky, I didn't have any rust on the mechanisms. I just used Super Clean from Walmart and a good scrub brush. Then I sprayed brake clean in the crank gear to get all the old grease out. I will use some kind of axle grease on the gear mech and spring but the window channels and rollers I will use white lithium.

These look to be galvanized. If you blast them the coating will come off. If they are rusty you may have to though. Just take them apart as far as possible and then after blasting you will just have use air pressure to blow out the hidden areas. Maybe spray brake clean and while still wet use air pressure. work the mechanism at the same time as blowing them out.

 

If I may make a suggestion - do all that lubing of the mechanisism as much a as possible after the windows are installed and adjusted to avoid grease and lube all over your glass and fuzzies. I made such a mess on my 72 vert during the window adjusting process!!!

 

Costpenn:
That's good advice. Thanks.

 

I was talked into going with powdercoat for the core support and parts. Boy was that a mistake! Now I have to get this stuff off and start over. Does anyone know if you can scuff the powdercoat and paint over it? I couldn't see it before but it has a couple areas that looks like the hood was shut with something on it. Also a wavy spot next to the hood latch hole. I will talk to my painter and see what he recommends. Only way I know to get powdercoat off is to burn it off in an oven with very high heat. Sand blasting will not do it when powdercoat is done right and this was done right.

 

Eric,
Curious why you are unhappy with the powder coat?

Don W

 

Have it chemically dipped. Rust and paint strippers can perform this but it takes a while to remove the coating.

 

I am happy with the coating but it is the metal under it that is not that great. I could not see the waves and a couple dings till after it was powder coated.

 

I have tried about every chemical stripper you can think of on this guys powder coat (on old 3 wheeler frames) and nothing would touch it. Wouldn't even discolor it. I didn't think about taking it and having it acid dipped.

I wanted to start putting the core support together as a sub assembly this weekend but that is not going to happen now. My painter is busy now and not likely going to get to this any time soon.

 

Perhaps you can knock out the dings from the back side, without causing any problem to the powder coating. I have seen a bent powder coated frame that the PC didnt crack. And i mean it was bent bad. Maybe worth a try.

Steve

 

I got most of my stainless parts back today. They look great! He told me I should be able to pick up my chrome parts Next friday.

 

Absolutely, ( if the powdercoat was done right ). Just think of the powder coat as an industrial strength primer. Scuff it, do any repairs you need and paint right over it. Remember, anytime you paint something bare metal, old finishes, ect it's a mechanical bond that makes the paint stick. Unless you use an acid etch primer (on bare steel) or spray over a coating within its time frame to cross link.

 

Thanks, I had talked to my painter yesterday. He said the same thing. I am taking it to him today for him to fix.

 

I dug the front seats out this morning. I was taking some of them apart and found a pay stub from the 70s. It is from a Pizza place. I came in and looked up when $2.10 was the minimum wage and that was in 1975. I think either he was making more than Minimum or this is not from the original owner. The original owner graduated in 1971 and worked for the family lumber company after that from what i understand. The wife to the original owner did tell me that they sold it around 1975 so I bet this is from the second owner that I still can not locate.

Also found a receipt from 1980. This date is the newest date I found in the car to this point. The guy I got it from bought it and parked it in 1981.

 

Stuck my emblems in the driver side fender just to see what it looked like. Had just a little to much paint in the holes. I had to use a small fine file to get some of the paint out. After that they fit like a glove. They look like they are crooked but it is the original finder with the factory stampings. The passenger side fender is not the original to the car and the body guy drilled them one size to small. I will get a little reemer and massage them to the correct size. I will brush a little paint into the holes to keep them from turning brown or rusting under the emblems.

Can I remove and install the emblems with the fenders on the car and the inner fenders out? I think I have done that before but now I am second guessing myself. If I ever add the stripes I will have to get the W-30 emblem off.

 

Getting ready to work on the interior door panels. I have to swap over the rocket emblem and the trim between the carpet and the vinyl and add the NOS reflectors I picked up. Also have to cut out the holes for the window crank and clips. I am very pleased with these door panels.

I got the chrome arm rest backings from Inline Tube. They are $52 and worth it. It would be more to get the originals rechromed and these reproductions are very nice. Only thing I see is that they are made by OPGI. May be less money direct from them?