I am going to try and clean my originalsbut have little hope theywill come out like that, just amazing..

 

Nice looking seat belts....

 

jensenracing77: I am thinking of having mine re-webbed. At least the front drivers and passengers ones. Really worried 45 year old webbing will not hold up in a crash. My a** is worth a lot and the cost to re-web is worth the price of my life!

 

I am not worried about the old webbing, I use these old seat belts to pull cars around the barn lot and never broke one. A buddy of mine mounted some retractors in the bed of his truck and use them to strap down his 4 wheeler.

 

Got my Master cylinder back from White Post. They said they make them the correct color but I am not sure it is. I like them black and see them both ways on restored cars. The old magazine pictures and articles I see look to be black. My 72 W-30 I had was black and I know it was original and untouched with 16,000 miles. I decided to paint it black correct or not. It was already rusting the way I got it back from White Post so it had to be painted anyway.

Plan to have a long day working on the car tomorrow. Hope to have the brakes done first. Bleed them and finish the E brake cables and adjust. Then plan to get everything prepped for the headliner to go in. If all goes well I may attempt to install the tank.

Took the core support to the blaster and then to get some color on it. As much as I want matte black on it I ended up deciding to go semi gloss.

 

Got the brakes done and bled. Also changed out the A/C control applique. After My442 pointed out the raised area I had to change it. This one is from Fusick and fit perfect. I did not have to file it like the one from H&H. This one also had 3M tape on the back so just peel and stick. H&H I had to use a glue to make it work. This make over $100 in H&H product that I bought and not using now.

 

Looks great Eric, I hate when you spend good money on parts and are disappointed by fit or finish, greens are tough to come by , and when you decide to pull the trigger and spend some you shouldbget what you think your paying for..

 

Hang on to the parts your dissatisfied with and return them at the nats in person.

 

I traded him a (needing restored) original 4 speed console for $500 worth product at the 2013 nationals. No paperwork. I did not notice or know about the little things that I do now. I think the dash wood grain and some of the console parts are all that I will be using.

 

I tried this with ILT at the 2014 nationals and the guy would not even listen or reason with me. I also had other parts to return and the guy working the tent told me I had to deal with the person I bought them with. I have always dealt with bob who has always been good to me. wish I had got the rude dudes name.

 

things look great. what did you do to clean the seatbelts? they look great.

 

She used goo gone on the bottom buckle to get the sealer off. Then used dish soap on a couple grease stains and then tossed them in the washing machine with my work uniforms.

 

Did you decide to not go with the black master cylinder?

 

It is black but does not show up well in this picture.

 

eric congratulations on the good money your alt. brought u, it was worth every penny that was some rare alt. I am shuore the money will help, must have been hard to let it go.

 

It actually didn't sell. It did not hit my reserve. It was real close but just didn't get there. I wanted to pull it off eBay but had to many people asking about it. Now i am glad it didn't sell. With the one on my car being a fake (and I stamped FAKE into it) I feel I had better just keep this new one. I don't know if i can bring myself to mount it to my car but at least I will have it.

 

And yet ANOTHER screwed up order from Inline tube! I just can not get over just how pathetic this has become. The ONLY reason I continue to buy from them is because I like some of their product. I think it is well past time for them to have a corporate shake up. I don't think I need anything else from them so after they fix this screw up maybe I can be done with them for good!

This time I ordered the INL11968 A/C compressor decal that clearly said in their online Oldsmobile catalogue that it is Olds makes 69-72. I get it and it is a Pontiac decal. Typically I would not be the slightest bit concerned about something like this and just deal with it but it has been every single order i get from them for 2 years.

 

Don't feel bad. Same exact decal came to me in an order too. I bet they have it on the shelf as a wrong #

 

As always, they made it right on the decal. I just have to find a correct one now. Inline Tube don't even make one for Oldsmobile.

 

But they sell one!!

Don W

 

eric I think dr decal has them just google it

 

he don't have one either. He has one for an 80s car but not a 1970. If I could sell my rebuilt compressor for enough I would just send my other one in with a perfect decal and have it rebuilt. I just wish they told me that they do not change the decal to begin with. I would prefer the original but i assumed that they would take it off in the rebuild process so I sent them one with a bad decal.

 

I got my original 4bbl throttle cable from Scott (oldspackrat) today. Great cable and MUCH better than the inline tube repop. I will add that to my pile of repop parts I am not going to use. I picked up an NOS bushing and gromit from Memmer at Homecoming last year so i am finally set on the cable issue.

 

It looks like that decal has a steel background with the color printed over it. I wonder if the guy Mike Richards used to make the wiper motor decals could replicate the A/C decal. Seems there is a market for it. The generic repros dont even look the same.

 

The material is thin aluminum with adhesive.

 

Is there a way to remove and re-glue it? Wonder what a heat gun would do? Cant hurt to experiment on a crappy one.

 

When you pull the plate since it's thin aluminum it tends to roll and kink. It's more of a one shot and done plate.
The best thing to do is print the decal on material that looks like metal like the decals mike had done.

 

eric back in my early days our olds factory rep. would not let the dealer replace a complete component (starters alternators carbs. etc. so I learned to over haul these A-6 compressors. we had a rash of bad wabble plate thrust bearings that would make a bad mooning noise and I had to completely disassemble the internal parts of the comp. and install it in a holding fixture to use a feller gauge to determine the sizes of the thrust washer to use and also use a feller gauge to determine the size of the shoes for the pistons. if u would just get u a comp. o-ring kit u could use the housing off the comp. u wanted to send in the one with the good tag and transfer the internal cyl. and clutch asm. to that housing. I have my front seal kit and my o-ring kit I picked up at a swapmeet, put u can find them on e-bay. if u what to ship me your compressors I can do the job for u I have all the tools for the front seal and u can paint the comp. after I ship it back to u.

 

I thought about doing it myself. I have rebuilt some newer ones and they are not that hard. I think these require a puller of some kind?

 

all u need is the special tools to pull the clutch and hub off but u also need the two special tools to install the front seal it's not hard. maybe a parts house may have them for rent, all the procedures are in the service manual.

 

I called Classic Auto Air again today. This is the third time to talk to them about it. They are going to make it right....sort of. I am sending them my rebuilt compressor and the one with the perfect decal. They will build my other compressor and they will keep the one that is already rebuilt. They will cover a "core price" for the compressor and just keep it. They bought two POA valves from me also so that should cover the shipping. They were very good about it and not a problem at all with them. Just had to talk to them three times.

 

Just for reference. Below are some pictures of differant decals. The first with the black smudge is original to a 66 Olds 98. The second is and original to a 70 Cutlass. The third faded one is original to a 72 Cutlass. At least from these cores they look to be one year only decals. I have other cores with other style decals but i do not know the year for them.

 

Eric here is a pic of my comp. the tag has a few nicks on it, maybe I can repair. glad to know that no one is offering a replacement one so I can try to salvage mine. it is not in bad shape. do u plane on just masking it off to paint or remove it.

 

That is part of there rebuild/restoration process. They do not replace the decal. They tape them off and paint them. I just wish they told me this up front. On the one they rebuilt me, it was taped off very well and looked great. It was just that the decal was not a nice one to start with.

 

Here's a pic of what my original one looks like. What I did on my compressor to save it and how I refurbed the other surfaces on it is in my thread on page 13.

 

wow joe your tag looks in supper condition even the code # looks excellent I can still read mine but the ink has faded

 

What is the P/N of the pistons you went with?

 

Wiseco Pro Tru Pistons PT053A3. They are $15 less now than what I paid.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wis-pt053a3

With 0 deck Commetic gaskets and F heads I got 9.8 compression. The heads were milled some but i can not remember how much and can not remember how thick the head gaskets were. I could look it up if needed.

 

Thanks

 

And once again, I bet you can't guess. Yep! Inline tube made another boo boo. This time it is from an order i placed over a year ago. It was my first order and I ordered heater hoses for an A/C car. I just noticed they sent me one for a non A/C car. I will call them again but I already know the answer. GRRR! I have had some rotton luck lately.