69 Fuel line install
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 68
From: Forest Hill, MD
69 Fuel line install
My 69 convertible 3/8 fuel line wore through right before the rubber hose that connects it to the tank. Believe it was original and am guessing it was rubbing on the underside of the trunk. Just read these articles https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...llation-37198/ and https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...as-line-73408/ after I bought supply and return lines and after I pulled and cut the other lines out after pulling the tank out.
It’s a resto mod and some of the body bushings have been replaced but some wouldn’t come out. I read this article https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-leaks-108564/. So rather than try to undo the body bushings to snake the line through, I’m thinking about cutting up the new fuel line into two pieces per the previous article.
1. I would cut the main fuel line that runs along the box frame right before it climbs on top of the frame going over the rear wheel well and then to the tank
2. Add bubble flare to that end of the line
3. From the passenger wheel well, over the break drum, add a short section of 3/8 in steel line between the body and frame to the tank. Un-elegantly bending it to the shape of the frame as I go back to meet the factory main fuel line.
4. Add bubble flares to both ends of that line
5. I would then splice the rear section and the main line section together with a short section of rubber fuel hose near the rear control arms where the fuel line is accessible.
6. Secure with one original clamp near the fuel tank and zip ties at other two clamp locations if I can’t reattach original clamps possibly zip tying rubber bicycle tire around the line to prevent abrasion
Let me know your thoughts on safety and feasibility. Thanks.
Jim
It’s a resto mod and some of the body bushings have been replaced but some wouldn’t come out. I read this article https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-leaks-108564/. So rather than try to undo the body bushings to snake the line through, I’m thinking about cutting up the new fuel line into two pieces per the previous article.
1. I would cut the main fuel line that runs along the box frame right before it climbs on top of the frame going over the rear wheel well and then to the tank
2. Add bubble flare to that end of the line
3. From the passenger wheel well, over the break drum, add a short section of 3/8 in steel line between the body and frame to the tank. Un-elegantly bending it to the shape of the frame as I go back to meet the factory main fuel line.
4. Add bubble flares to both ends of that line
5. I would then splice the rear section and the main line section together with a short section of rubber fuel hose near the rear control arms where the fuel line is accessible.
6. Secure with one original clamp near the fuel tank and zip ties at other two clamp locations if I can’t reattach original clamps possibly zip tying rubber bicycle tire around the line to prevent abrasion
Let me know your thoughts on safety and feasibility. Thanks.
Jim
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 68
From: Forest Hill, MD
I think it worked. I've driven 10 miles and no leaks using rubber fuel line so far. It's easier to start now as well and seems to fire right up. I think I discovered that the starting problem was a hole worn into the old steel line from rubbing against the trunk floor. It would really be difficult to start and would sputter when on hills.
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