When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was able to track down a good straight frame last month. I'm gonna start putting brakes and suspension on it after I paint it. I want to switch to disc brakes and I'm looking for recommendations. Any recommendations on a complete disc brake conversion kit? I'd like to get everything in one order. Brake lines, rotors, spindles, master cylinder and everything else.
Also, can I use my original 14" wheels? Some of the kits I've looked at say I need to move up to 15" wheels. I can save some money if I can use my old wheels.
If your putting disc brakes on the larger rotors have better stopping. 15" wheels may or may not cleat 13" rotors. Go to 17" wheels.
If you quit worrying about saving money
Go to Wilwood brakes
Detroit speed drop spindle, coil over, tubular, front and back.
Some of the guys on here will recommend you locate an original (used) disc set-up so everything is GM. That's certainly a viable option but may take some time for you to locate everything you need and rebuild/restore as necessary.
I'm assuming you're talking disc front/drum rear. It's your money but, in my opinion, putting discs on the back of these cars is a tremendous waste of money. I can recommend The Right Stuff as a source for a kit that will work with your 14" wheels. I replaced the front drums on my '69 Cutlass last year with one of their front disc conversion kits specifically because they said it would work with the factory 14x6 SSII's. I kept it non-power so only had to swap my master. Everything at the wheels comes with the kit and I purchased their pre-bent line kit. Installed pretty easily and the braking is perfectly fine for my needs (no autocrossing, etc.).
A few things to watch out for:
1) Very slight interference with the caliper brackets and wheel rim. I could mount the wheels but when you spun them you'd hear a spot on each wheel that was making some slight contact. A little grinding with the Dremmel fixed that in 5 minutes.
2) The original master they sent me wouldn't bleed. I called them and they replaced it with no hassle. Make sure you bench bleed it first and look for any signs of trouble.
3) Almost every aftermarket brake supplier ships the same brass combination valve with these kits. There must be one large supplier as they are all obviously the same part. THEY ARE JUNK. I went through four before getting one that worked and didn't leak. Many people complain about this so, as far as I know, it's an ongoing problem which isn't getting fixed. Luckily, the company was good about it and kept sending me parts until one worked but it was a royal PITA. In fact, I saw an episode of Roadkill Garage a couple of weeks ago where they were putting an aftermarket brake kit on something and had this exact same problem. They specifically showed the valve they had and they couldn't get it to seal. They ended up throwing it in the trash and using another aftermarket valve.
A lot of guys like to brag about the rear discs and other high dollar brake parts they use on these cars - while only driving around town and to shows. Don't waste your money. A front disc/rear drum setup in good functioning condition is all most of us need. You could argue a good drum/drum setup is also perfectly fine for a periodic driver.
I second The Right Stuff kit with regular height spindles. Came with every nut and bolt I needed as well as hoses. I also had the issue with the 14" 1969 SS II wheel just touching, filed it down no problems. I already had power drums so I added the factory style hold off valve and front brake line kit from Inline Tube. Reused the original factory metering valve (not a combo/proportioning valve) This was 10 years ago on my 69 Cutlass S convertible, still going strong.
June 23rd, 2021, 11:10 AM
