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Im going to be putting a 425 Olds and th400 in a 63 Buick Lesabre Wagon which is the same as a dynamic 88 wagon. Well I will be updating the journey and asking question on the 425.
The engine is supposedly rebuilt but who knows.
Any advice will be very helpful if anyone has done such a swap
Looks like it wasn't oiled/sealed good. I'd try to get a Borescope and look in all the cylinders. The intake looks rusty. Depending on what you find, you might want to pull it apart. Jmo.
Looks like it wasn't oiled/sealed good. I'd try to get a Borescope and look in all the cylinders. The intake looks rusty. Depending on what you find, you might want to pull it apart. Jmo.
thanks for your post, what did you mean by not oiled/sealed good?
Fluid film is a good spray sealer/protector, better than WD30 but wd is better than nothing. 3M has a foil tape that's good.
I'd spay the ports then tape, valley area and the whole valve train. Tape every port/hole,spray inside crankcase/ inside oil pan, valve covers etc if engine is going to sit. Jmo
That swap maybe similar to 400-425-455 into a 64 and earlier Big Olds. It's not "plug and play" by any stretch, there are posts here in this Club about this type of project.
Fluid film is a good spray sealer/protector, better than WD30 but wd is better than nothing. 3M has a foil tape that's good.
I'd spay the ports then tape, valley area and the whole valve train. Tape every port/hole,spray inside crankcase/ inside oil pan, valve covers etc if engine is going to sit. Jmo
Ok that clears it up for me thanks.
Above you wrote you would tape the valve train. Did you mean spray?
That swap maybe similar to 400-425-455 into a 64 and earlier Big Olds. It's not "plug and play" by any stretch, there are posts here in this Club about this type of project.
Thanks for pointing me in a good direction, ill browse around for info. Is it safe to say I should treat this just like swap in a car with the exception of a longer driveshaft?
Spray inside the intake ports then tape/seal the ports, then spray valley area, valve train area, etc. Tape won't stick to sprayed surface. Any bare metal iis going to rust.
You might try and see if it is stuck (turn it over with a socket and a beaker bar), that's a lot of rust for it to not to be in the cylinders. You might just end up with a core rather than a run able engine..... Tedd
You might try and see if it is stuck (turn it over with a socket and a beaker bar), that's a lot of rust for it to not to be in the cylinders. You might just end up with a core rather than a run able engine..... Tedd
i will report back after i try rotating the engine.
What are you guy's opinion on a edelbrock torker 455 intake on a 425. Or any aftermarket intake?
Any dual carb or tri setup?
opinion on stock intake?
Let's start with how you intend to use the car. This is a heavy car and likely is never going to be a drag car. I don't know what you've done to the engine, but if it's close to stock internally and your primary use is street driving, I'd use an E-brock Performer dual plane and don't look back. The Torker is a single plane intake designed for higher RPM HP. If the engine rarely sees 5 grand, it's wasted. The only tri-carb setup is the factory L69 intake from 1966. You probably know what those go for. There are only two options for dual quads, the long out-of-production Edelbrock O65 dual plane dual quad and the Offy dual quads that are still in production. Offy sells (or sold) multiple versions of their intake, the single plane 360 degree version and the really goofy 180 degree version. The latter is basically two stacked single plane intakes, one that feeds off the primaries and one that feeds off the secondaries. It should tell you something that in the half a century since Offy came out with this concept, no one has copied it (and any patents ran out 30 years ago). The single plane is horrible from a flow standpoint. It's sole reason to exist is to mill the carb flanges flat and weld on a plate for a 6-71 blower. The E-brock is actually a reasonable street manifold. I ran one on a 455 with dual Carter 500 CFM AFBs and progressive linkage and got 14 MPG in a Cutlass. You can find them on ebay periodically. In all cases, the single quad Performer will make more HP and give better mileage and driveability than any multi-carb setup. The mult-carbs are for show, not go.
Good luck with the build. I'll be following this thread, since I just picked up a '63 LeSabre wagon myself. Mine will stay with the stock engine and trans, though.
Let's start with how you intend to use the car. This is a heavy car and likely is never going to be a drag car. I don't know what you've done to the engine, but if it's close to stock internally and your primary use is street driving, I'd use an E-brock Performer dual plane and don't look back. The Torker is a single plane intake designed for higher RPM HP. If the engine rarely sees 5 grand, it's wasted. The only tri-carb setup is the factory L69 intake from 1966. You probably know what those go for. There are only two options for dual quads, the long out-of-production Edelbrock O65 dual plane dual quad and the Offy dual quads that are still in production. Offy sells (or sold) multiple versions of their intake, the single plane 360 degree version and the really goofy 180 degree version. The latter is basically two stacked single plane intakes, one that feeds off the primaries and one that feeds off the secondaries. It should tell you something that in the half a century since Offy came out with this concept, no one has copied it (and any patents ran out 30 years ago). The single plane is horrible from a flow standpoint. It's sole reason to exist is to mill the carb flanges flat and weld on a plate for a 6-71 blower. The E-brock is actually a reasonable street manifold. I ran one on a 455 with dual Carter 500 CFM AFBs and progressive linkage and got 14 MPG in a Cutlass. You can find them on ebay periodically. In all cases, the single quad Performer will make more HP and give better mileage and driveability than any multi-carb setup. The mult-carbs are for show, not go.
thanks Joe. First off the car would be just likr you said, a street car. Just a strong driver. Appriciate your solid advice, ill pass on the torquer and keep my eye out for what you posted. Any advice on a cam choice... I still want it to be fast on the street.
thanks Joe. First off the car would be just likr you said, a street car. Just a strong driver. Appriciate your solid advice, ill pass on the torquer and keep my eye out for what you posted. Any advice on a cam choice... I still want it to be fast on the street.
Cam choice depends on accessories - A/C or not? Automatic or not? Power brakes or not? Mark Remmel set me up with a nice cam for my 67. I'd talk to him about your needs and intended use. Obviously you'll need to know lifter diameter and bank angle.
Cam choice depends on accessories - A/C or not? Automatic or not? Power brakes or not? Mark Remmel set me up with a nice cam for my 67. I'd talk to him about your needs and intended use. Obviously you'll need to know lifter diameter and bank angle.
January 14th, 2019, 02:53 PM
