cutlasssupreme71

Hi folks,

After a looong offline time i´m back here.

It happens a lot in the last couple of months....

My 1970 Cutlass S passes the MOT in the second try...
In the first try, they didnt like the 15" rims and the Edelbrock intake....
In the second try everything was perfect with no defects, also from then on i suddenly had stock wheels in my "title"
No command LOL

After, let me say 80 miles of cruising, we decided to visit the last us car meeting, this year....
I went on the autobahn and accelerated (not full throttle ) suddenly a big loud rattling at 90mph.
Immediately i went on the emergency lane....
Sounds like driveline but wasnt sure at all....
After all it was the front u joint from the tranny yoke...
One inner snap ring was loose and then the "X" hits inside the yoke and makes this scary sound....

Thats the car story so long.....


Torsten

cutlasssupreme71

In the meantime i took my (i thought) matching small block that came with the car apart.....

Here are some Pictures:

coppercutlass

why dont you carefully grind the edelbrock lettering off and paint it to match the engine . That just might work to slip under the radar

cutlasssupreme71

The block seems to be not original because my vin ends with 149319 and the block says 149958...

Also i found an Erson Cam in it... The TQ20H...
Im a little confused with the "45°" on it?!?!!

coppercutlass

look for a 71 on the machine pad that will tell you it"s the right year. The 45 on the cam is the cam bank degree olds had two 39 and 45 degree 39 is usually the older 330 and 425's .

cutlasssupreme71

Yeah, im really got p*ssed on .....
The first MOT Inspector had a sh*tty day i guess and found nothing to criticize so he read the Original documents with measurements and datas from the car and told me that my Original Wheel and Tires had to be 14" and not 15".

Then he opened the hood and saw this Edelbrock Intake, which is very baaaad LOL....
Then his knowledge was gone and he said, he has no idea if this is legal or so.
I should go to another MOT station.....

Then i drove to Mike the mechanic ( seriously )
He said, "Hey no problem, i will make a date with my favourite MOT Inspector and You will get your "Licencse Plate"".
2 days later, the moment of truth came....
He wasnt in his shop.....
I was sat on pin and needles Huh Boy.....
Then 10 minutes later he came with my blue baby and everything was perfect.... No defects everything was like it should....
And this Inspector defined my wheels as Stock and so it is in my Title....
Man, i hate this differences here in Germany....

Next goal was a little License Plate for my Gas Tank .....
Man i could wrote a roman....
But now, except for my u joint problem, everything is fine...
It was a long road to success.

Torsten

cutlasssupreme71

What and where is the Machine Pad???

I found this number below on the drivers side front, below the cylinder head.:
30E149956 sorry ive wrote an 8 above!

coppercutlass

the picture you have with your finger is the machine pad. I forgot where but if you type in oldsmobile engine id code into a search engine you might be able to decode the engine.

cutlasssupreme71

Here are some more Pictures from Disassembling....

Ive pressed out the rods and weighed them....

From lightest to heaviest rod ive had 4 gram.

Also ive weighed my old vs. new pistons...
The new Sealed Power 2320F30 are 14 gram more heavy than the old (9,0:1 i guess) pistons.....

What do you think about that numbers....

cutlasssupreme71

Yep, we`re talking about the same "pad", were i´ve found the number...

cutlasssupreme71

What do you think about this:
350 Block 0.030 over
Sealed Power Forged Flat top Pistons 0.030 over
Redone stock 350 crank
Redone Stock 350 Rods
Redone #6 Heads with new Stock Size Valves 1.875 - 1.562
and a 2 angle Valve Job
Erson Cam TQ20H: 214/214 - 292/292 - 478/478 - 111°Lobe 4° Adv.
Comp Cams Magnum Roller Tip Rockers
Head Gaskets with let me say 0.040 compressed Thickness
Head and Block decking with the most minimum numbers....

One Question is what valve springs i should use????
What pistons to bore clearence i should have???

Torsten

coppercutlass

well they are .030 so they will be heavier. The rotating assembly will have to be balanced . If i may ask why are you rebuilding this engine it seems like it was rebuilt recently. If i am correct i see studs instead of bolts for the cylinder heads. What are you trying to achive with the engine . I would recommend getting the compression right at or under 10 to 1 no higher depending on the kind of octane you can get. The forged units flat tops with no block decking and a true 64 cc combustion chamber and .040 head gasket you should be right over 9.5 to one.

cutlasssupreme71

Youve talked about balancing....
Is it necessary to balance the rotating assemblies ( with 14 grams)?
Ive talked to some Engine Guru´s and many of them told me it isnt necessary when i wont reach 20 grams of difference...

Well lets hear some more experiences and experts....

Why i do this rebuild?

Hmm i want to see whats in this engine....its 40 years old ...

The Crankshaft had some slight bearing failure so i´ve ordered a rebuild crank with bearings...
I wanted to change piston rings but at the same time i decided to raise the compression and hp a little bit....

I wont go higher than 10.0 : 1 compression...
9.8:1 or so is my estimated goal
I will run 95 Octane on this engine

Ive heared about the cc`s numbers of the small block heads, that they are more like 68cc not 64cc like 442.com says.. but with the 0.040 head gasket, i will be there, where i wanted to be... i guess...

This will be a let me say performance street engine....

Thanks
Torsten

coppercutlass

i think its been worked on at somepoint. I was under the impression it was what you where driving with. I would balance the rotating assembly specially with an overbore and going to new piston the engine ws not designed or balanced at the factory to work with an extra 14 grams those are my thoughts . The reason i said 64 cc is those flatops give about 9.64-9.75 with a true 64cc chambers if you milled your heads and got a true 64 cc out of yours with a .040 gasket that"s roughly where your compression would be. post your thread on the engine section and your thread will get more attention and alot of other input.