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Getting the glove box lock off just takes patience sometimes - I worked for what seemed like an hour, poking that little tab and sure I was doing it wrong... I was successful when I pushed the lock cylinder in, pressed the tab with a tiny screwdriver, then worked my fingers under the front **** until it ever so slightly started to come out. When it finally moved, the whole thing popped out in seconds. I think it's just more about hitting that "sweet spot" where the little tab is pressed down and just makes it under the cylinder wall as you pull. Did you take the key out before you tried to remove the cylinder?
Last edited by BSiegPaint; Oct 16, 2020 at 07:52 PM.
Getting the glove box lock off just takes patience sometimes - I worked for what seemed like an hour, poking that little tab and sure I was doing it wrong... I was successful when I pushed the lock cylinder in, pressed the tab with a tiny screwdriver, then worked my fingers under the front **** until it ever so slightly started to come out. When it finally moved, the whole thing popped out in seconds. I think it's just more about hitting that "sweet spot" where the little tab is pressed down and just makes it under the cylinder wall as you pull. Did you take the key out before you tried to remove the cylinder?
No, I have been trying to remove it with the key still in. Should I pull the key out?
Quick update. I was able to get the glove box lock / tumbler along with the nut and **** from the door. The directions posted on the forum are a great starting point, however, there are a few points of clarification I would make.
Set the latch to closed on the backside of the door.
The key didn't have to be inserted nor did I need to be in the locked position to access the little prong. I did have to push down on the tumblers, though, so maybe the key in would have made a difference. I swear that with the key in, I couldn't get the first prong to disengage all the way. Playing with the lock now that it's removed, I can push much further down on it with the key OUT.
Push down on the little prong and the pieces will pull out the front.
I'll post pictures later tonight. What was especially cool was seeing the key code of 5G44 on the lock itself and matching it up with the paperwork from 1970.
Now off to clean and repaint the black on the glove box turn ****.
The little opening at 12 o'clock is where the first pin will be that you want to push down on. It'll take a bit of time so be patient.
Also, cool to see '32' in red grease pencil. I've seen that number scribbled in a few other places throughout the car so I'm assuming that was the number going down the line.
You'll know once you hit the first pin correctly as the lock will start to slide out the front a bit. Again, be patient. You may have to keep pushing the other pins through that hole to get it out all the way.
Just about out.
This is the first pin you see through that hole. I pushed down on it, pulled a bit on the front, and it disengaged a bit.
As I mentioned in my previous post, I think it's cool to see the traceability between the paperwork that calls out the key code and then matching it up to the actual lock.
One original set of keys still with the car.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; Oct 18, 2020 at 01:28 PM.
Very interesting. So much is the same but that detail of the glove box lock... so glad I have a '68, whew!
A very impressive and detailed thread on this build. I would be honored to buy it from you in about 10 years when I retire. If you don't have it please keep track of the buyer so I can reach them at the appropriate time. Any other windfall would prompt a sell inquiry. A stunning example, thank you for sharing.
Last edited by Orlando 1; Oct 18, 2020 at 04:59 PM.
Haven’t had much garage time of late. I also think I burnt myself out a bit thrashing to get the car together so now I’m slowing it down a bit. Working on a solution that will give me a LOT more space to wrench.
A box of freshly plated parts arrived last week. Some of the hardware included the four original TR bolts, star washers, and nuts for the lower turn signal lights in the front bumper. These bolts are fine threaded, and the aftermarket kits are incorrectly plated. Pretty pleased with how the plating looks—especially the tiny star washers.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; Oct 26, 2020 at 02:59 PM.
Picked up an LED head lamp that goes around my head with a band and a battery pack off Amazon so figured I should give it a whirl tonight. My goal for tonight was to install the hardware in the roof so the headliner installer would know exactly where I need holes.
I was able to mock up the following: shoulder straps (had to reference pictures to see which tag went on which side since mine had one facing one direction while the other faced the opposite way), coat hooks, dome light, visor pivots, and rear view mirror.
I also liberally sprayed the interior with an odor eliminator product as I think the roof insulation had a bit of a smell to it.
The only thing I could not figure out were the holes for the shoulder belt clips. There are four screws per side of the car, and I must not be seeing where they go despite staring at it for awhile. What am I missing?
I also pulled all the fuses from the block. They need to be cleaned and detailed, and the prongs on the block need a bit of help. This will be fun since it’s already reinstalled (sarcasm).
I think this might be a date code stamped on the inside of the roof although the 50th week for a late Feb car seems a bit early.
Detailed coat hooks and factory screws going back in. Again, just mocking these parts up to make sure I’m not missing anything!
Reused the factory seat belt bolts for the roof. Need to find where the blue plastic covers snuck off to in the parts room...
Belts restored last year by Python. Hamill belts in a Lansing car
I actually disassembled the mirror to clean the mounting plate and plastic. I will reapply lube upon reassembly.
NOS pivots installed. They only go in one way. I had to take a screwdriver and rotate them to the correct position. I also confirmed the visors fit without issue. This is actually an older part number but matches the number on the backside of the ones removed from the factory. Need to do some homework on the superseded number and report back.
Restored and reinstalled the speedo cable grommet in the floor. I know there is a page in the PIM that covers the routing of the cable. I put the grommet back in the same direction as it was removed.
Disassembled and cleaned the hardware for the rear view mirror as well as the blue plastic.
I also went through and tested all the fuses I removed from the panel. It appears two of the fuses have been replaced with non-factory / non-colored fuses. It is possible other fuses have been replaced, however, they were at least replaced with the correct colored ones.
A few weeks ago I did some homework on fuse colors. Here is what I have concluded.
10a - red
20a - clear glass
25a - white
30a - blue
There are a few Chevy shops that sell replacement kits. There are also NOS fuse packs on eBay, but they’re quite expensive.
I detailed each fuse, cleaned the glass, and tested them.
They all tested fine.
I need to compare this blue to the blue on Andy’s W-30. I want to say his blue is much darker than mine. Fade is a real thing but there’s no way mine faded that dramatically. I am thinking multiple blues may have been used here. Stay tuned...
Hardware was degreased, washed, and oiled. I’ll mock this up tomorrow.
Jimmy, here is my mirror cover. Outside that has a few stubborn stains and the under side which should not be faded. Mine looks darker than your first picture but the second picture you show looks pretty close. Maybe the lighting.
Outside which has been cleaned with soap and water but still has a few tough stains. Underside which should be the virgin blue color.
Jimmy, here is my mirror cover. Outside that has a few stubborn stains and the under side which should not be faded. Mine looks darker than your first picture but the second picture you show looks pretty close. Maybe the lighting.
Outside which has been cleaned with soap and water but still has a few tough stains.
Underside which should be the virgin blue color.
Thanks, Andy. The colors do match. Appreciate you uploading the photos.
Update on the holes for the shoulder belt clips. Silly me, the holes for those clips are actually in the headliner track that runs around the roof. All good.
Nothing much to report on. Still prepping for the headliner install. Finished more restoration on parts that likely will never see the light of day again. These are two more pieces for the headliner track. Nice and clean.
Gearing up for the headliner installation on Monday and trying to ensure I have everything set. I could use some help with the following questions:
Do I have this sound deadener correct? Does that top portion tuck in to the slots in the roof or does it just get glued on the backside?
How does the wire for the rear view mirror light route? Does it just tuck under the trim? I also recall the wires running down the A pillar on the LH side but of course I cannot find a picture during disassembly.
One last thing. I need to call Legendary tomorrow. The front LH door panel has been driving me mad for the last few weeks now. You can see the waves and air pockets directly along the stainless trim at the carpet. What I believe to be the case is that they put the seam directly on the other side of the holes that needed to be punched for the trim. As I punched holes from the back, it must have pushed the seam or unglued the material. Either way, poorly made.
I disassembled the glovebox a few weeks back. The black paint on the turn **** had chipped off in a few areas and didn’t look great. I masked the area as best as I could and hit it with a couple coats of black paint. After the tape came off, I had to do some fine detailing to remove and excess paint. I think it looks a lot better than it did!
You can see the chipped black paint here.
I used these little detail sanders and brush from Hobby Lobby to scuff off the black excess paint.
Another view.
I also pulled out the gas tank to wipe away the oil coating they put on the tank for shipping. The top side has been detailed. Next will be another wipe down and then a coat of blue paint for the template. I hope to get the sending unit, wire, and tape installed this weekend.
Picked up a 10’ 4” PVC pipe to soak the driveshaft and other longer parts in Evaporust. I’m hoping I see an outline of a stripe but not holding my breath. I cut the PVC down to 6’, installed a cap on one end and a threaded fitting on the other side. Now to pour Evaporust in to the pipe without making a mess...
The prep for headliner install continued last night. The entire “roof rail” is back in the car. It took time or two figuring out what parts overlap, however, the screw heads left an imprint which made it easier to figure out.
All the screws and bolts are in place for the installer.
The shop is also going to recover the factory arm rest pads. I pulled the vinyl off one of the pads last night to inspect the foam. I’ll leave it up to the interior experts to figure out how to form the new vinyl material.
4” fits the entire shaft plus the joints.
Factory shoulder belt bolts.
Shoulder belt clip screws in the frame.
The underside of this vinyl seems different than any other vinyl.
The crack here is just the vinyl. It’s almost like a backing material was added to the back of the vinyl.
That's the original vinyl with the original backing material (if you were thinking someone added the backing material later on).
I figured it was factory. The vinyl I received from SMS is technically seat material so it’s a little thicker. Because of this, I think the material as is will be fine without any backing material. We’ll see. Thanks for the reply, Patton.
Dropped the car off at the interior shop this morning for the headliner installation. Should have it back tomorrow or maybe Wednesday AM.
I ended up putting in new clips. I didn’t want to chance anything with 50 year old brittle plastic clips. I took a spare some light harness, removed the prong for the bulb, and soldered it on to the factory harness. I also picked up new clips for the rods, too.
Oh...yeah...I see now. That's a nice big upholstery shop. The places around here are tiny one car places, so cluttered I don't know how they have room enough to work.
I wonder if the purpose of that backing material on the armrest was to help make the vinyl more durable. If your elbow is going to be sitting on it for a few years maybe they added some thickness to the material to resist wear?
Picked the car up from the interior shop yesterday. The headliner install turned out great! I’ll post pictures of that this afternoon. Just as I was getting to unload the car out of the trailer and in to my garage it started pouring rain. I will get the car unloaded at some point this morning.
I also had the shop recover the rear arm rest bases as well as the front arm rest pads. I had ordered a set of arm rest pads for the front from Legendary and was disappointed in the shape. I used the NOS 2-70 dated material from SMS, and they also came out looking great!
Since we are always talking hardware and finishes, I found it interesting that both pads had a phosphated screw and a cad screw. I put them back the same way they came out.
All set.
Correct blue vinyl and correct blue paint on the plastic. When you take a step back, you can see the contrast in blues.
It was cool to see how the shop made these covers. They deconstructed the original cover, traced out the shapes, and then did their sewing. The double stitch matches the factory stitch.
For those in the Chicagoland area, the shop I used was Mr. Trim in Downers Grove. I was impressed with the quality of work as well as the cleanliness
of the shop. They also do convertible tops, too.
They did a great job on the headliner as well as the arm rests Jimmy. You are at that fun stage where virtually everything you do produces results quickly..
I was wondering why the visor pivots weren’t holding the visor in place and then realized I was missing the plastic bushings. I dipped in to the box with all the original interior parts and there were the factory pivots with the original white bushings. I popped the bushings out, thoroughly cleaned them, and pushed them in to the NOS pivots. Thanks to Andy we figured out the flat part of the bushing faces inward.
Started to push the visor in to the pivot and it just wouldn’t go. A dab of white grease and it worked right in!
Original sun visor “pivots.”
White bushing. Note the flat edge. There’s also a groove inside the “pivot” so the bushing only goes in one way.
It was rainy today so I had to pick a project I could knock out in the garage which meant the carpet will have to wait. Instead, I worked on the RH door splash shield and door panel.
The splash shields from REM fit quite nicely. I lined the door where the edge of the shield would hit with Butyl sealing tape, lined up the shield, and pushed the paper down on to the sealant. This is as close as I could get to the factory with what I have access to. After, I used a perfect match to the factory tape (even down to the width!) and taped the shield in the exact places observed during disassembly.
I mocked up the door panel and I think it’ll fit okay. The six prongs for the back were a pain in the *** to slide in to the panel. I also need to come up with a way to mark the back of the panel for the four screws on the carpeted portion towards the bottom. I am thinking of using rivets in the holes, pushed the panel against them to get an indentation in the cardboard, and then using a fine tip on a soldering iron to poke through. Anyone have another approach?
I carefully removed the LAN10 body tags before ripping the car apart. I replaced them back in the same spot and angle as removed. There’s a little white lithium grease build up at the bottom of the door as I soaked the window mechanicals.
Splash shield in place.
Tape in same spots as the factory.
I bought this tape off Amazon. I would recommend it.
I picked up this butyl sealing tape off Amazon, too.
I am already having nightmares about putting the c-clips in place for the crank and door pull! Does anyone know the “factory” positioning of the window crank for a rolled up window?
