bennie442s

Dave, you are correct that we will be test fitting all moldings on the car before final paint. Great suggestion!
Update: We worked quite a bit this weekend and basically have this chassis ready to roll under the body. I need to paint the brake line clips that correct puke green/ yellow first and apply some more stickers. However, for the most part, this is ready to be mated back to the frame. Am I correct that the body bushings were painted two different colors of green. I think I have the light green taken care of, which is two bushings; but the rest are dark green? This info is what I read from the assembly manual. I have been unable to come up with the correct color for drk. green, any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Ben

442rocketdave

Ben under the back four are lighter green and under the doors are medium green and under the front are darker green including the core support, I sent pictures to you via email, I still have not mastered putting pics on this web site!!!! anyway if you look at the pics you can see the color variation and I am working on sending you the numbers off the paint cans so you can get them if you want, they have enough in them to do several cars. Dave

442rocketdave

Hi Ben here are the pics of the frame the lightest ones are under the door hope this helps. Dave

442rocketdave

Holy Toledo my wife did it

442rocketdave

These are pics of when old Fissy May was good looking enough to be in the magazines

Kibby70

This is the best thread, Ben, beautiful car, Dave, unbelievable build. What a great car, Thank goodness it found it's way to you. Thanks and keep on inspiring the rest of us.

briane

What type of paint are you guys using on the rubber biscuits?

Thanks,
Brian

442rocketdave

The pics on the W30 convertible were not mine they are Bill Streeters 1970 W30 4 spd car and he did all the work himself and shared the photos with me.

Kibby70

Well Bill did an outstanding job, thanks for posting.

NDERISE

Hey bennie what type of coating did u use on your upper and lower a arms thanks ray

bennie442s

On the upper and lower control arms we sandblasted them back to bear steel and then used a paint from the Eastwood collection. I purchased a bunch of their paint, and just used the one that matched the best. I'll look and see which one it is....I decided to go the bare steel color because there was no evidence of any black paint on them whatsoever.
Update....the hood and fenders are now being blocked in color, the hood is on its fifth round of sanding, the NOS fenders have not required near the same amount of work. It is exciting to see this project moving along, probably going to mate the chassis and the body next week.

bennie442s

The paint used was Eastwood's Spray Grey

jensenracing77

Looks great! I have a question that has been bugging me every time I look at your pictures. Where on earth did you find that foam seal for the OAI air cleaner? I have looked all over to find one with yellow foam!

Also, What did you use to paint the body bushings?

Kibby70

Dave, can you get your wife to come over show me how to post pictures on this thing ?

442rocketdave

Kibby you have to post your pics on your computer in a file and then when you make your post use the go advance button below and click it and then at the top of the box is a little paper clip then click on it and a page will open with 5 browse lines click on the browser and your files will appear and then click the pic files you want and open them with your thumbnail and then open the pic you want and you can load five only then it will say on that page with the 5 browsers upload then click it and then review it and your done.

Kibby70

Kool, now I just gotta figure out how to get my pictures off my phone into my computer .

bennie442s

Eric,
The paint I am using on the bushings I had color matched from my old one that still had paint on it. We came up with Spectramaster Green color code GS301C, that is for the lighter green almost (mint color). I had Oreilly's put the paint in a spray can. I am still working on the dark green or aqua color, but I am close and will let you know what I choose. The air cleaner top and seal were a piece purchased at the local Oldsmobile dealership by an individual in Virginia named John Richardson. John has not only helped source some great NOS parts, but he has been a phenomenal resource with his vast knowledge of these cars. He had a W-30 convertible score 998 at OCA nationals and took AACA senior preservation honors as well. The air cleaner top and foam seal were used only for show and never closed the hood on it. Thanks for noticing one of those small details, and I enjoy reading your thread on the W30 you are restoring as well!

-Ben

bennie442s

Since the body is going back onto the chassis this week, I thought I would take some pictures of the numbers matching aspect of the car one last time while the body is off the frame.

bennie442s

Finally pulled the trigger on the paint cans and painted the body bushings. I used the old mounts as a color reference. Then I compared those to the pictures 442RocketDave sent, and we came up with 2 colors that looked pretty good. Next up is installing the body back on the frame and then tightening all the suspension hardware.

MX442

Nice job! Keep the pics coming!

droldsmorland

Would you do us all a favor and take some detailed pictures of the rear axle special reinforcement braces? Everyone has heard about them but few including me have ever seen them.

bennie442s

We got the chassis back to Ron's shop today and by the end of the day, the two were united again. It is great to see the body sitting back on the frame. As requested, I'll take some photos of the rear suspension for everyone when I get a chance to slide under there again. I left all the suspension bolts loose, so I will get under there and tighten everything and finally apply the yellow paint daps on the bolts as the factory did to note that everything was tight and torqued to spec.

bennie442s

more pics!

Classy 71

Wow awesome build, and great story to go along with it, please keep the pics coming in!

davebw31

bennie442s: I would recommend/suggest you loosen all of the suspension bolts/nuts when car is finished (also have a 1/2 full tank of gas), on a level surface, and then tighten/torque all bolts/nuts to factory assembly manual specs.

Vader

Ahhh yes, the yellow foam .... :-)

bennie442s

Its been a long, long time, but the fenders are back on! Sort of, just the initial fitting, lots of work to do. These will be bolted on and off again a few more times. However, it looks great with all the major sheet metal back on the first time in almost 2 years!

bennie442s

The front end is being test fitted, it is a slow and tedious process. The fenders are giving us a little trouble, but I think they will align properly.
Dave, thanks for suggestion on the suspension. I left all the suspension pieces loose, I remember having read that same suggestion in another thread you posted in. Thanks!!!

Boiler_81

Bennie: I would like to add your carburetor data to this thread https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...uild-date.html Would you provide your body build date?

stevengerard

Stop teasing!!!!

Boiler_81

Did you happen to keep a list of which parts were painted in the various glosses?

stevengerard

I have a document with that information somewhere, I'll look for it. Its been floating around for years. Not sure how completely accurate it is but its a great base to start from.

Boiler_81

Thanks

bennie442s

Guys,
The car went back to the frame shop this week because the horns on the front of the frame were too narrow to allow the core support proper movement. So they got widened about 1/2 an inch and brought into proper spec. Hopefully this fixes the hood to fender gap issue we have been having on the driver side fender. I want to say special thanks to Merill Axle in Des Moines, IA for their hard work on the frame. If anybody lives in this area, they are a great company to work with.

Boiler_81 PM sent in regards to the carb info for your thread

I do have a compilation sheet of all the gloss percentages. Let me know if anybody wants that information.

-Ben

stevengerard

This is what I have, would like to see what you have Ben

bennie442s

• Exhaust Manifolds, Eastwood High Temp Exhaust manifold paint, brush it on
• Rear Sway Bar: 70% Gloss Black
• Differential: 70% Gloss Black
• Frame: 70% Gloss
• Floor Pans 30%
• Radiator Top Support 100% Gloss
• Acc. Brackets 70% Gloss
• Fire Wall 30% Gloss
• Krylon Dull Aluminum /Argent Silver for Grills
• The transmission crossover is painted the same 70% black.
• The transmission pan is metal so should be a natural metal color. I would bead blast it and paint it with the Eastwoods Nylac too.

15. The original door strikes I haveseen are natural metal in color.
16. The intake manifold bolts are natural metal as well as theexhaust manifold bolts.
17. The radiator tanks are gloss (100%) black.
18. The evaporator box is a natural non-painted color, which is a darkgray, the color of the plastic resin is after mixing in the colorant. Itis not painted.

19. The steering column is 100%gloss black.
20. The ram air hood hold down brackets are also 100% gloss black.
21. The disc brake backing plates are natural sheet metal, so blast clean themand leave as is. You might want to Nylac coat them to preserve them.
22. The front sway bar is natural cast gray.
23. The springs are also natural cast gray..

24. Frame of Hood 30% Gloss Black,Rest of underside is a natural fiberglass color

25. Upper and Lower Control Arms,Pitman Arm, Tie Rods…etc. all pieces are natural color, nylac them to seal…(Upperand lower control arms can also be 70% black or some variation of paint andbare steel…this is an area the factory was a little inconsistent on

26. Calipers, wheel cylinders,front and rear brake baking plates, natural color and seal with nylac

27. That piece is argent silverover the headlight housing.
28. The headlight mounts would be 30% gloss black
29. The core support should be 30% gloss black.
30. The metal underside of the dash is also 30% gloss black.

31. Rear suspension componentsincluding upper and lower control arms and special braces are all 70% glossblack

Boiler_81

Bennie

If looks like the forum cut off some of your post. The list starts with number 15.

Based on your experience with the frame. I think I would have a frame checked for proper dimensions before I started building up a chassis.

bennie442s

As noted earlier, this was the second trip to the frame shop. The first one had gotten the frame back to spec and had fixed any cracks on the frame. The reason it went back a second time was because the front horns were too tight for the core support to slide between the two horns. Upon a second examination, the horns were just more than 3/8" too narrow and prohibited proper gapping for the hood on the drivers side. That issue was fixed in a matter of minutes. I completely agree the frame should be checked out before it is restored and that is exactly what we did.

I do not know why when I copied and pasted my color differentiation sheet it turned the first 1-15 into bullets instead of numbers, but that is my complete frame reference sheet. It was provided to me from an individual named John Richardson who has restored several OCA and AACA senior preservation award winners including a 71 W30 convertible that scored 998. I cannot give enough Thanks to John for all his help in this endeavor!!!!

Thanks for the comments everyone!
-Ben

Boiler_81

Great, thank you.

I am looking forward to seeing your completed W-30. I am going to start my frame off a year from now. I am currently gathering information and a few parts. You can bet the frame will go in for a check up as soon as it is stripped down.

Nickyloves442s

wow!!! I remember that middle picture next to the 1969 Camaro!!! Brought back a lot of memories! Nice Car.

The 1970 w30 Vert is my dream car. Nice Car as well!