Well, the purchase is all but final. Car is being delivered tomorrow and so I thought I would go ahead and post some of the pics of the car as she is right now. I've included a picture of the Cowl Tag in hopes of getting it decoded properly. Looking forward to putting this one back on the road in a few years.

Plus Features
1.) Sport Coupe
2.) Factory 4-speed car
3.) Rally Gauge set - Tic Toc Tach
4.) Misc. parts included - 455 Intake ('74) E Heads, Headers
5.) 12-bolt rear end (unsure of gears or if Posi - no tag)
6.) ST-10 "Iron" 4 speed included

Minus Features
1.) Someone slapped a '66 bumper and taillight on it
2.) missing grill & one headlight bezel
3.) interior is shot
4.) Missing Sway bar (does have boxed lower arms)
5.) No Engine - although I have a 65 400 B Block to put in it.

 

Nice save looks like a good project!

 

If you can come by Austin Tx I'll trade even your 66 parts for 67 parts.Henry

 

Is it reasonable for me to conclude that the car I have is a factory 4-speed car based on the Cowl Tag with a 2L code on it.. My reasoning is that Fisher most likely had very much the same body codes for the same features across multiple GM divisions - adjusting the code Letters based on what exclusive features belong to each respective GM division... It appears the 5VY works under this as well - 5 is the code, V for me is 442 Trim, Y is deluxe seat belts... Its the same across divisions or so it appears.... Maybe i'm grasping at straws but I would like to have some confirmation on this - one way or the other. My Car also has the 4F for a remote mirror - which works using these same codes...

Thanks

StoneCAD

 

Nice project, but you have your work and cash output ahead of you. Keep the progress reports coming!

 

You are right on the money with your decode. And the E is for tinted windows.

 

That's great news. Thank you!

 

In the beginning....

 

Nice! I did a similar resto on a 67 442 sport coupe. Here is the thread.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-trac-pac.html

 

Crawled under and discovered my car does have an O type 12 bolt cover Posi. Pulled the cover and found it to have a gear ratio of 12:41 or 3.42 gears. All in all a great setup. I'm hoping to find a TM somewhere on the tubing.... Any W30 parts would be a bonus at this point for me. Casting number of 402227 from a 1970

 

My car down the line very soon after yours.
67-33807 LAN 6982
67-33807 LAN 7097

 

Within 115 does yours also have a build code of 3E like mine

 

Yes, it was the same build week.
Some pictures are in two albums.

 

Though not original, a '70 3.42 is a good and valuable rear.
What W30 parts do you think you would find? I'm not following you there.

 

Looks like a really solid project.

 

I may be wrong but I was hoping to find a TM axle tubing code which would signify it would have been from a 1970 W30 right?. But alas I found an SH after much scrubbing. At least the gears are code correct. I'm pleased with it anyhow.

 

Thanks! It's starting to shape up a little. I've got a long way to go!

 

Gears inside the differential, Borg Warner T-10 Transmission has a date code on the tail shaft of 10-19-64, The infamous Tic-Toc-Tach as it sits now waiting for me to get the car done so I can see if it works...

 

I have a lot of parts for your car including a good rear bumper - PM me if your interested.

 

Pulled the dash out today. Harness is in the car and appears to be original to the car. The only concern I have with it is the plastic layer/coating appears to be bubbling up in places on the circuit board .. Yearone has the circuit boards available for $130 if it's bad... Will have to wait for a while to know if the pods will function

 

Dash is out, floors are solid

 

jI'm following your build closely-I am in finishing stages of my 67 track-pak. I need to replace printed board also, 12v circuit for fuel gage and tach is broken. Not trying to kill a Yr one sale as I buy a lot from them since I live and work close by, but check OPG for better price ($73). Keep up the good work! I have many left over parts, some never installed and some used lightly, as well as some that need restoring. Email for a list if interested-I will be listing them here and clist when I get time. GOOD LUCK!

 

I need to replace printed board also, 12v circuit for fuel gage and tach is broken. Not trying to kill a Yr one sale as I buy a lot from them since I live and work close by, but check OPG for better price ($73).

I couldn't find the 67 Rally Pack printed circuit board on their website but will keep looking.

I've got a long way to go for sure, but will keep at it.

 

Here are some additional photos of the Floor inside Cabin... Very pleased with what I am finding.

 

Looks like a great project. I'll be wathcing to get some ideas for mine as you seem to be at the same point mine is.

 

It's on page 190 of the 2013 catalog, pic is correct for gauges and description says w/gauges...p/n c230067.

 

Looks nice. I have a 67 Rallye Pac, as I believe it is spelled, dash waiting for my 67 442 project. To pick nits, the Tic Toc Tach is the 68 and later one that had the clock and tach on the same gauge, prompting some wise-acre to quip he shifted at about 2 oclock. U21 if you want to be all option code technical. I've also got a U15 safety sentinel, which makes the controversial mythical U22, Rocket Rallye Pac w/ Safety Sentinel, which may or may not exist depending on which source you consult.

You CAN test the gauges with the proper power supply. Be careful. Also be careful with that floor wiring harness, they're expeeeeeensive.

 

Picked up this car site unseen except for relatively crappy images. Car has 330 with 3 on the tree, 12 bolt Type O with an SC (3.08) axle tube code. Engine codes to a 66-67 see head stamp below. lots of options on the car, A/C, PS, PB, Cruise Control (I think) and a power antenna... I will post additional pics... May try to make this my daily driver.

 

Any help decoding would be great and highly appreciated

 

Found a set of C heads local and was able to get these rebuilt heads for $250 complete with Roller Rockers.

 

I'm Looking for some dimensional information to help in placement of big block motor mounts on this car. Previous owner liked to weld and put in what appear to be Pontiac mounting pads. I'm in the process of grinding above the weld in an attempt to remove the mounts... are all three frame holes supposed to be slotted? A picture of what it should look like without the mounted pads would be much appreciated as well as an in-place picture.


Thanks


StoneCAD

 

How about a picture of what you have? No all 3 frame mount holes are not slotted. The frame mounts are not adjustable if my memory is correct. With proper frame mounts the holes should already be there and they should bolt right in...no?

 

i'll snap a picture of the crossmember.


Edit: Added picture.

 

Better picture

 

Yuck! You have molestation there for sure. Frame pads are not correct and it appears what is left of the mount holes will do you no good. The engine is out of my turnpike cruiser. Maybe I can get some picts for you this weekend and maybe some measurements....

 

Thank you, my dad speaks of being able to get dummy block made of hardened plastic that will allow for exact alignment but I cannot find Nything. Thanks

 

I know of no Olds dummy blocks.... Do you have the correct frame mount pads?

 

I do yes

 

How about the parts car?? That will have all the measurements you need...

 

That has a running 330 in it. The 442 is getting the Big Block. My understanding is they are different mounts.