1967 442 Sport Coupe
February 20th, 2014, 07:21 PM
#42
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February 21st, 2014, 03:46 AM
#43
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This has been discussed several times here. Search is your friend. Joe P even has a sticky for this: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...376#post633376
February 21st, 2014, 06:23 AM
#45
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I'm putting a big block into my 67 442 - the previous owner had a Pontiac engine in the car. I have to remove the welded mounts and put into place the original mounts. I am looking for the best procedure for alignment because the original holes have been molested beyond use.
StoneCAD
February 21st, 2014, 06:48 AM
#46
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Hopefully the nose of the car has been removed. I would attach the transmission to the BB and drop it in place and measure for the correct frame bracket location. With the trans sitting on the trans mount, it will give you the correct distance for the engine from the firewall. Then mark the position of the frame brackets on the front cross member. You may have to install the headers to ensure proper clearances as it's a very tight fit.
February 21st, 2014, 07:26 AM
#47
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February 22nd, 2014, 03:20 PM
#48
Took a few picts dont know if it will help.... 2 top frame pad holes are slotted while the lower one is not. Just looked at passenger side. Maybe you have enough metal or slots to position the pads correctly.
February 22nd, 2014, 05:34 PM
#49
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This is great stuff, i should be able to get the mounts in place using these pics to reference. Thank you!
February 23rd, 2014, 07:50 AM
#50
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Stonecad keep this link handy:http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofswp.htm#Swapping
I built my 67 Holiday pictured. There are other things to also consider; hood clearance with either a Torker or Performer intake, radiator size, front disc brake upgrade-( you got to stop that beast) etc. I will be watching your progress. That's a nice project!
I built my 67 Holiday pictured. There are other things to also consider; hood clearance with either a Torker or Performer intake, radiator size, front disc brake upgrade-( you got to stop that beast) etc. I will be watching your progress. That's a nice project!
February 23rd, 2014, 08:58 AM
#51
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In '67 both BBO and SBO used same frame pads and same motor mounts.
This actually hold true for majority of '64 through '77 A-bodies. Exception is 70-72 442s and miscellaneous 455 installs in '73 and later A-bodies.
AND those cars that used the "oddball" frame pads/motor mounts, they are the same motor mounts as in '78 and later G-bodies. Frame pads are different though on the '78 and later. Pretty sure that the '78 and later B-body mounts and frame pads are the same as the regular A-body.
This actually hold true for majority of '64 through '77 A-bodies. Exception is 70-72 442s and miscellaneous 455 installs in '73 and later A-bodies.
AND those cars that used the "oddball" frame pads/motor mounts, they are the same motor mounts as in '78 and later G-bodies. Frame pads are different though on the '78 and later. Pretty sure that the '78 and later B-body mounts and frame pads are the same as the regular A-body.
April 1st, 2014, 04:19 PM
#52
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Bucket Seats
This is the passenger seat that came with the car when I bought it. It has the Metal seat cover on the back. The Driver side that came with the car is missing the cover. I am having trouble locating a replacement "Metal" cover so they'll match.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement metal rear cover for the drivers seat? Also, what is the correct stitch pattern for my car. Its a Post car and I am reading articles that mention vertical stitches and not horizontal stitches. I assumed these seats belonged to a different GM car but have since found out that the 67 olds is the only car to have the metal backs... Further confirmation of this would be appreciated.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement metal rear cover for the drivers seat? Also, what is the correct stitch pattern for my car. Its a Post car and I am reading articles that mention vertical stitches and not horizontal stitches. I assumed these seats belonged to a different GM car but have since found out that the 67 olds is the only car to have the metal backs... Further confirmation of this would be appreciated.
April 2nd, 2014, 07:23 AM
#54
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Again, Thanks for the info. Is that seat for sale?
April 2nd, 2014, 07:28 AM
#55
My car has the bench and the only premade covers for buckets or bench are available from PUI sold thru venders such as OPGI. Trouble is mine were ill fitting and the upholstery shop had to add material to get them to fit. My front seat was missing too and if it were there I would have just had the shop sew up covers from scratch. the color match was not right on either with the repops.
April 2nd, 2014, 07:44 AM
#56
That seat was used in my car. Here is the build thread which you may get some info from for your build. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-trac-pac.html
April 14th, 2014, 07:07 AM
#57
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Engine Mounts
got a little bit done with these motor mounts... I've got a template being made from another vehicle so we can fill all this in and re-drill the original holes in place. Oh and extra big THANKS to the previous owner for cutting the brake lines.
April 14th, 2014, 12:57 PM
#59
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For a fact no plastic dummy blocks were made by any company! I will be picking up a 67 442 this week i may be able get some measurements. My 67 cutlass supreme has a big block in it. Dick miller mounts.
April 15th, 2014, 09:18 PM
#60
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Steering wheel restoration
Well with the latest NOS steering wheel approaching $1200 on ebay. I decided to go the cheap route. I started the repair on my steering wheel. As you can see the gray is where there was a crack. I am done with the filling of the cracks, will be primering tomorrow and them sand. Will probably require at least two maybe three treatments then i will be painting.
Last edited by stonecad; April 15th, 2014 at 09:24 PM.
April 15th, 2014, 10:06 PM
#62
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Pulled the dash out today. Harness is in the car and appears to be original to the car. The only concern I have with it is the plastic layer/coating appears to be bubbling up in places on the circuit board .. Yearone has the circuit boards available for $130 if it's bad... Will have to wait for a while to know if the pods will function
jI'm following your build closely-I am in finishing stages of my 67 track-pak. I need to replace printed board also, 12v circuit for fuel gage and tach is broken. Not trying to kill a Yr one sale as I buy a lot from them since I live and work close by, but check OPG for better price ($73). Keep up the good work! I have many left over parts, some never installed and some used lightly, as well as some that need restoring. Email for a list if interested-I will be listing them here and clist when I get time. GOOD LUCK!
They failed to mention that it's not the complete PC board, just the printed circuit.
You need to remove the PC from your old board and glue the new circuit to the old board.
I'm betting the Year One part is the complete board ready to install.
That's probably why it's more expensive.
You should ask before purchasing.
April 16th, 2014, 05:29 AM
#63
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Well with the latest NOS steering wheel approaching $1200 on ebay. I decided to go the cheap route. I started the repair on my steering wheel. As you can see the gray is where there was a crack. I am done with the filling of the cracks, will be primering tomorrow and them sand. Will probably require at least two maybe three treatments then i will be painting.
April 16th, 2014, 05:39 AM
#64
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Mounts are same. My 67 Cutlass was an original 330, replaced it with a 350(small blocks), then replaced that with a 400 (big block). Never changed the frame mounts.
April 16th, 2014, 05:45 AM
#65
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Well, the purchase is all but final. Car is being delivered tomorrow and so I thought I would go ahead and post some of the pics of the car as she is right now. I've included a picture of the Cowl Tag in hopes of getting it decoded properly. Looking forward to putting this one back on the road in a few years.
Plus Features
1.) Sport Coupe
2.) Factory 4-speed car
3.) Rally Gauge set - Tic Toc Tach
4.) Misc. parts included - 455 Intake ('74) E Heads, Headers
5.) 12-bolt rear end (unsure of gears or if Posi - no tag)
6.) ST-10 "Iron" 4 speed included
Minus Features
1.) Someone slapped a '66 bumper and taillight on it
2.) missing grill & one headlight bezel
3.) interior is shot
4.) Missing Sway bar (does have boxed lower arms)
5.) No Engine - although I have a 65 400 B Block to put in it.
Plus Features
1.) Sport Coupe
2.) Factory 4-speed car
3.) Rally Gauge set - Tic Toc Tach
4.) Misc. parts included - 455 Intake ('74) E Heads, Headers
5.) 12-bolt rear end (unsure of gears or if Posi - no tag)
6.) ST-10 "Iron" 4 speed included
Minus Features
1.) Someone slapped a '66 bumper and taillight on it
2.) missing grill & one headlight bezel
3.) interior is shot
4.) Missing Sway bar (does have boxed lower arms)
5.) No Engine - although I have a 65 400 B Block to put in it.
Decklid has Cutlass trim ( 442 is blackout) It looks almost as if it had a 66 rear clip put on it?
April 16th, 2014, 06:13 AM
#69
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April 16th, 2014, 06:17 AM
#70
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POR Epoxy putty, biggest key is to use a dremel to widen the existing cracks into a sort of V shape - it allows for the putty to fill all of the crack. I had several cracks that were horizontal and so I used a dremel to do this, it should stop the crack from spreading as well.
thanks
April 17th, 2014, 09:44 AM
#73
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Primer Stage I
Got a coat of primer on this thing. cracks sure do pop when you primer it. So I spent the better part of the evening with the dremel and putty filling in even more cracks. Next coat of primer will go on and then block sanding the spokes and hand sanding the curved edges with some 400 grit.
April 19th, 2014, 02:17 PM
#74
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Spare parts
Found these at the wrecking yard this morning. $15 per wasnt bad. Too bad they are both passenger side. They were in a 65 with a 455 and C head on drivers side and A head on passenger side. Intake was gone and i forgot to check the block id. Didn't these come on W30/HO cars?
Last edited by stonecad; April 19th, 2014 at 03:04 PM.
Steering wheel
May 4th, 2014, 01:01 PM
#77
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Finally!!!
Just got home from Denver. I found an intact E Block with approx 116,000 original miles. Pulled from car around 1980 and stored in garage all this time. Intake was gone but ive got one. C heads with VxxxxxG stamp - block date code is 115, heads are 115 and either 116 or 118 will need to clean it up a bit better to be sure. Will post pics once i get it on the stand. $500 for engine with flywheel and bell housing intact. With heads off cylinders above piston are clean with no rust. Visible cam is clean, forged crank with L shaped notch, pilot bearing still in place.
