During my travels this week,I was advised to try some epoxy adhesive for attaching my floor panels?
You guys ever heard or used such a thing?
The guy I was talking to swears by the product,and says it will not come apart,and seals just as good as a weld,but its easier and safer to use.
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I have seen it used on door skins and trunk areas not sure about floor pans tho . It's advertised stronger than a weld and has something in it that helps prevent rust . The company I work for uses it daily

 

Many newer cars have bonded panels instead of welded. Proper use of body panel adhesive requires EXTREMELY clean mating surfaces and EXTREMELY good fit-up of the panels. If you are contemplating using this adhesive to bond ill-fitting Chinesium floor pan patch panels to a rusty floor, think twice. The work required to do this right will be about as much as for welding.

 

It's a tacky idea if you ask me.

- Eric

 

It can be used well with rivets, but metal should be clean and not rusty.

 

I'm building a driver,not a show car,and I cant believe its better to drive with rusted away floor pans than a panel that has been glued in place.
I'm aware American panels are not ept coated and that's what I bought.
I've been waiting a year for my buddy to make time to weld some floors.
Time to try a different attack or I'll never get finished.
Looks like a great how to opportunity with lots of photos.

 

I wasn't suggesting that, only that the adhesive is not designed to fill large gaps.

 

Ouch! That was painful...

 

I would not use any panel bond adhesives on the floor pan. The work great for quarter panels on newer cars but even then. I do not know of any shop who soley uses panel bond to hang panels. They will use it in certain areas where it will be easier than welding. The bulk is always welded in. I welded my floor pans in. They fit like crap btw. It took some work with a hammer and dolly to get em to fit. You could use rivets. Sheet metal screw it in then drill your holes and rivet it in. Now a nice little trick i learned from working on semi trucks is using a washer that fits tight on the opposite end of what you are trying to hold together and it will be even tighter as it tightens into the washer vs. the rivet on the steel. almost like a nut and bolt affect.

 

I used this on 1 rear floor pan and both quarters. Seals out rust and I have had no ghost lines. There is alot of discussion on this in the arcives. I did however weld the outer wheel houses and trunk drop offs in along with various other parts. The key is to 2 clean and mated surfaces without any gaps like Joe has said. Also the "glue" cannot be completely squashed out when clamping or using temporary screws. If you use the screws, after removal, just dab some more of the glue in to the holes and finish as needed.

 

This has been my experience as well, which is why I noted this in my post above.

 

I was just agreeing with you. More than one person's experience will help the op. Fwiw the goodmark fit better than the us. Made. Mine was stamped crooked. I used one good mark floor pan and one us made I think from sherman bought through parts place.

 

And I was just agreeing with you...

This is why I use one-piece floor pans now that they are available.

 

Geez, a couple of questionably appropriated street signs, some string caulk, and well placed sheet metal screws and pop rivets, Wah-lah a new floor. The 70's low tech inexpensive solution.

Fond memories of floor repairs of the past. Of course now that we are older and somewhat responsible...

 

Lol nothing like the old farm truck I think it was held together by ply wood and screws and Tin foil for fuses 😱

 

Keep us informed on this cause I might be doing the same this summer.