Beginning the complete interior restoration of my 1972 Cutlass S. The headliner and Fatmat (soundproofing) have been installed. Have followed Lady72nRob71 interior resoration thread. Since his project is a convertible I actually require assistance with step by step installation of rear window trim / rear deck / sail panel area in correct order to keep my mistakes to a minimum.

 

Do the new reproduction replacement sail panels need to be altered to fit properly (original sail panels vanished over the years during restoration)? Should sail panels be installed before or after package tray?

 

Lookin' good...package tray first then sail panel...I think there is a sound deadener under the package tray also...If someone gets locked in there, it keeps their cries muffled ...

 

Yellowstatue, that's funny stuff. I laughed my *** off.

 

Did you use the same sound deading materials as Rob? I'm getting ready to pull and lay in new carpet on my 72 Cutlass S and have ordered the carpet and Sound Deading package from Fusicks... The Sound deading package arrived and is a heavy rubber padding approx 1/4 inch thick. Just wondering if I need to add to that?

 

The sound deadening you got from Fusicks is more of a factory style sound deadening. It's not the same texture or the same coverage as FATMAT. There's been a lot of controversy about whether you need to do the whole car or not. The package you got from Fusicks will do the job really well. Most of the sound from you hear in the 72 Fastbacks is not from the floor or firewall area. Make sure you put proper water seals on the doors and make sure they are acoustically sealed like GM did from the factory. Then make sure your window felts and rubber seals are in good or new condition. That will get rid of a lot of side noise and wind noise.

Oh yeah, one more thing that almost EVERYONE overlooks = On the bottom of the door (inside bottom) there are 2 drain vents that should have a rubber drain cover. A lot of time they are missing or have fallen out. That will let sound into the door panel and you'll never figure it out unless you know where to look. If you can't find what I'm talking about (look on your car) LMK and I'll take a pic for you. The rubber pieces I'm talking about are on page 58 of the Fusick Catalogue (search for Part DHS66)

 

Re: sail panels.
If you can get OEM panels from the web, I'd do that before I got any repops. You can dye the panels whatever color your car is or you can have them reupholstered. OEM parts are guaranteed to fit. Chances are you will also have lost the sail panel connectors too. You can solve this by cementing a small wedge of wood (basically a spacer) and velcro to the sail panel pillar of the car, then attach the mating velcro piece to the sail panel. It will hold just fine and probably last longer than the car. This concept is also what helps secure the sail panel in lieu of putting screws in a visible place. (GM was notorious for trying to present "invisibility" in the way panels were fastened to the car).

Used sail panels are very common items on ebay if you're interested.

 

Allan, I know most of our cars are rarely driven let a lone in the rain, but when I was younger those were the first things I removed as they held water in and allowed the doors to rust from the inside out - or was that just Urban legend? Shouldn't we keep those off the doors "just in case"

 

I would put some of that soundproofing over the rear wheel humps and the side back glass, before the panels.
I also, put insulation under the package tray, and behind the back seat with the cardboard.
Your work is looking great. Keep us posted on the progress.

 

I have mixed feelings about those seals, as well as the rubber flaps in the rear quarter frame drain holes (remember those? )
With the flaps installed, water will drain out if there is no dirt and crud blocking the opening.
If the window felts are broke or wore out, more dirt and crud can accumulate inside on top of the flaps. Removing the flaps can help the dirt be washed out easier. Also, you will now have some air and critter entrances, too.

Even in a perfectly clean door, not having the flaps can create bottom vents that will allow natural convection to help dry out the inside if it gets wet. Of course, these are not completely airtight anyways...

I suppose if I were to drive a lot in the rain, I might leave them off.
Otherwise, I might leave them.
Lady has all of hers installed - she does not see water often, and the inner doors and quarters have been POR15'ed.