Has anybody tackled this job?

I know mine broke on my driver seat and I just ordered a new one waiting on it to arrive.

Any tips or tricks?

 

What car and year? On most cars it is real easy after pulling the seat out. With the power part not working, many time it makes it difficult to remove the set.

 

I was hoping to replace the part w/o taking the seat out I heard some people say they were able to do this.


GM part #20614175 if there is any confusion on what part im talking about.

 

Update: Was kinda a pia for 30mins but got my driver side power seat working again

Nice that I have all power features working again (windows, locks, seats)

 

Did you have to take the seat out to install? If not, how did you get it on?

 

I seen this post looking for some information on the power 'seat couple'. I'm having a difficult time removing the motor while the seat is in place. removed the front seat bolts to rock it back but I cannot see how the motor detaches from the housing. The seat is stuck in the far back position. I believe that the seat belt anchors have to be removed as well, using a torque bit. Fortunately, I have the tool. I believe that I can remove all of the bolts but the back where the covers cannot be removed. However, I did remove the pivot pins easily but the covers use a male coupler covering the bolt (The forward bolt). I believe that I could possibly wrench the back loose but the front rear bolts seem to be an issue.

If any could elaborate on how to remove the motor without removing the seat, it would be most helpful. I plan on moving to body shops for additional information. If any would know, it would be a body shop. I'll leave a video I uploaded to show the area in question.

I’m seeking some assistance with the installation of the ‘seat couple’ which I purchased from Parts Place: GM Part Number (20614175) with hopes of the part fitting. The armature spins freely so there appears no error with the switch. The seat couple that broke is stuck inside the housing. I can most likely remove all the seat bolts but the Forward Rear Bolts which are covered with a plastic module. The pins were easily removed but the covers have a male extension covering the ‘Forward Rear Bolts’. The rear bolts most likely can be removed.

Seeing that there are some who have moved into this area, can any detail exactly how I can remove the motor without removing the seat? I removed the forward seat bolts to rock it back but I cannot see where the motor is attached to the housing. I removed two forward 7mm bolts on the face of the motor and cannot see where the motor continues to be seated. There is a lock ring on the shaft of the motor (clearly visible). Does this lock ring have to be taken off?

 

Any help with directions on replacing seat coupling either with seat on or off?

 

Here's a link of mine from Youtube.

There are three bolts on the motor (2 up front and the third behind, "very difficult" to remove: "But can be done with patience". Seat does not have to be removed BUT it would be much, much easier. If you can remove the seat, it's a piece of cake. If the seat is stationed at a fixed position with the broken couple, you would have to remove the motor.
1.) Start by removing the forward bolts 'in front' to raise the seat. Most likely, or probably the back of the seat will be covering at least two of the four bolts on each side. In this respect, you'll have to remove the three bolts on the motor from the front. Once removed, the motor will slip right out. Now, you can replace the couple. If you require any further assistance, contact me or Brian Weaver of Gbody.com. Keep me posted.

 

This is a pain in the a** job, remove seat and be very careful the plastic housing can be very brittle and crack. Or just stand on your head and do it....
I move the coupling all the way to non motor side and it came out..... not easy. I have seen some metal housings on ebay and may upgrade but they want a lot for them....

 

My coupling was 'shattered' by a dumb mechanic trying to move the seat. Most likely, he kept the motor spinning. Anyway, my plastic housing was sound with no deterioration or weakness. You make mention of moving the coupling on the forward part of the shaft which is the way it is removed. Again, if one can remove the seat, 'it's easy'. The problem is the 'third' bolt in the rear of the motor housing. I could not remove the seat as it was stationed in the far most rear position, covering the floor seat bolts. I scrapped my knuckles but managed to get the third bolt free which released the motor. The coupling came off easily as most of it was shattered. Never heard of a metal housing. I have an 86' Cutlass Supreme. What have you?

 

"83 Delta 88....yeah I've seen metal housing on line but you have really look hard, new plastic ones are around $150-$200

 

I would believe you encountered a similar problem, 'difficulty', contingent upon the coupling. If you removed the seat, it is not a task at all for you can remove the motor easily. The problem is when you cannot remove the floor seat bolts to get at the motor. I unbolted the front two floor seat bolts to provide some lift to get underneath. If I could not raise the forward part of the seat, there would be no way to get at the motor, not enough clearance. I have seen some plastic units that were discolored and looked possibly brittle. My unit was clear white with no discoloration or weakness. I never realized they made metal housings. Are the metal housings for certain years? When I have time, I may search Ebay to look around, although I do not need any. Did you remove the seat? If you did, I cannot see any issue with replacing the coupling. Either spray or a gear puller will remove the coupling easily. Apparently, you did not use a gear puller. You performed the task, so the situation is moot. Not many knowledgeable people around today with the older cars. They've disappeared or care not to bother. Keep the faith, everything else is meaningless.

 

I am trying to replace the coupling on my 85 cutlass and for the life of me i cant find the "third Rear 7mm head" that holds the motor to the metal frame. Im trying to replace the coupling by "dropping" the motor and then swapping the coupler in place without having to remove the entire seat. Are there any photos of the "third Rear 7mm head" ???

 

* I believe that there are 3 bolts that hold the motor in place. They are a task to remove. Yes, one bolt is difficult to get at (in the back) but you must be patient. I scrapped my knuckles pretty good. I believe that 3rd bolt (P.I.T.A.) 'It's in back" > is a tedious task but once you remove it the rest will be freed up. That is what I did after removing the 3 bolts: Replaced the coupling by dropping the motor in place without removing the seat. Once I got the coupler out, I moved the seat back or forward (forget) whereby I could readily access the motor more. Once the seat was movable, I removed the motor to check the coupler and it really needed no adjustment. Bolted back up and never had a problem again. I did not follow through with pictures or videos of installation for the coupler was nothing but aggravation. The problem was that I could not access the two front bolts on the seat rail to remove the seat for easy access. The two rear bolts I could remove but that did not help in accessing the motor and coupling that was completely shattered as seen in my video. That 3rd bolt in the back is a painstaking task to find and remove it. I had to keep feeling for it with my fingers and using I believe a 1/4" (7mm) socket to free it up. Once that was removed, the other two came out pretty easy; still a tight space. There is no other way to perform the task. And, trying to take a picture of the motor under the seat with the seat locked is virtually impossible.

Is your seat locked where the four front (2 per side) or four rear seat bolts (2 per side) on the rails? If the four bolts on the front are able to be removed you can tip or tilt the seat forward to access the motor 'Pretty easy from there'. If the front seat bolts (4) are not able to be accessed due to the seat being locked on the rails, the only way is to access the motor underneath. Unfortunately, my front bolts "Where seat was stuck" were covered by the rails whereby I could not tilt the seat: my luck. Again, are the four bolts on the front seat able to be removed? Get back to me.

 

So my seat only has 2 front 13mm bolts (one on each side) luckily i am able to access those bolts and tilt the seat backward. The seat is "stuck" in a position were i cannot access the rear seat bolts. I'm attaching some photos for reference. I have circled the 7mm bolts. Are these the ones that need to come off so the motor drops out of place?

 

I believe the top picture shows the 7mm bolts needing to be removed. Those two are not the problem. It is the third 7mm bolt behind (In back) that presents the problem. Get that 7mm bolt off, then you can remove the front two you have pictured and the motor casing will be released. I forget if it was the rear or front seat bolts I could not access. The second pic you display shows 2 additional bolts and I do not believe those have to be removed (uncertain) I cannot remember. I don't mean to be redundant but the first picture you display is an accurate representation of those (2) 7mm bolts needing to be removed. However, it is the third bolt in back of those two that is difficult to remove. I performed this task years ago so the details are a tad sketchy. 'Get that third bolt off in back in accompaniment with the two you have circled in the first pic and the motor housing will separate. You can place the coupler on at that point to get the seat to move. If you are uneasy with the coupler seating right, you can readjust once the seat rails are free. Keep me posted.

Motor Housing 7mm bolts. (3)

 

Motor Housing 7 mm bolts (Three). You cannot see the other 7mm bolt because it is hidden in a difficult spot (Opposite the bottom right bolt you have circled in Red). Feel around with your hand until you find it, then use a 7mm socket to loosen and remove. It's difficult but you must be patient. It took me several times, maybe three or more to unloosen. If I were there I could show you or even take it off but I'm not there.

 

synoptic12 you are correct sir- The "3rd" rear 7mm bolt is adjacent to the top front 7mm bolt. Here is what I did that worked for me:
1: removed 2 front seat bolts (13mm), remove 1 side cover screw, this next step was the most important step I removed 1 13mm bolt that goes from the seat to the frame. Removing all of these gave me the ability to partially separate the seat from the frame giving you a big enough gap to access the bolt.
2: used a 1/4 ratchet with 2 long extensions to remove the rear 3rd bolt
3: disconnect the power seat motor from transmission housing-this give you the space needed to install the replacement coupler.





I am still waiting for my replacement coupler to come in from Gbodyparts.com. Once i get it i'll see if i post a short youtube video explaining my entire process.

 

Glad it worked out for you. Unfortunately, gloves did not work for me. Brian from GBody will give you the proper coupler which he provided to me. There are two different types of couplers, one being O.E.M and the other a shorter version, so it is a good thing you are purchasing from GBody. Brian provided that information to me. He's a pretty good guy. I have not spoken to him in some time but we exchanged items with each other as I provided him a dash cam at no charge.You have provided a lot of steps to acess the coupler. I do not believe I went through all that disassembly. However, I did scrape my knuckles quite a bit, "Did you"? *You're lucky you got the side of the seat to lift up as being able to access that 3rd bolt. I could not raise the side of the seat and I'm uncertain if there were any side cover screws. "I noticed one thing, "Do you have buckets"? I have a bench which makes the process twice as hard as one cannot access any "Side Screws" for there are none. "You have buckets, don't you"? Get back to me on this point. Nice shot there. Once you receive that coupler, place it on the armature shaft carefully and make sure it seats; pretty straight forward. This will then allow you to move the power seat whereby you can remove the motor housing easily to check for proper seatment of the coupler. I did this but found no adjustment necessary.
* Did you enjoy the process? I have an 86' Olds Cutlass Supreme and I do not know if the 85' which you have has the same specifications and/or motor. In any event, as a side note if you have the V-8 you have the 5A cylinder heads which means you can build that motor. I have an 86' and I believe I have the 7A cylinder heads (swirl port) and I cannot build the motor at all. Let me know what Brian is charging you for the coupler.

** If you seen my video, you must have seen the Parts Place coupler: 'Not the same' > That coupler is different in being shorter. Do not purchase any parts from Parts Place in Chicago for all the Olds' parts are knock offs (counterfeit) > Junk.

 

Well, did you receive the coupler yet? You never responded to my last post if you had bucket seats which I believe you have. You hide the center console and wear those plastic gloves holding a mirror: "comical". Anyone can replace the coupler with bucket seats easily. Let's see some pics of the center console. I'll be waiting for your next video! Trying to act like you're a professional, ha,ha,ha! I know the owner of G Body parts, Brian Weaver. Let's see the coupler installed: post some pictures Mr. mechanic. You're a clown.