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So I was watching a video of a cleanup of a '69 W32 and noticed that when they were working on the interior, there was some sort of "liner?" under the rear seat on the floor. It made me realize that my '72 Supreme doesn't have one, and was wondering if there was one available aftermarket? I've included a link to what Fusick sells as well as a couple pics of what I'm talking about.
I didn't intend for my comments to be smart azz. I would personally go with one of the products like Dynomat. I think they would probably do a better job of noise and heat reduction.
As noted, the Dynamat-style deadener sheets are pretty easy to cut, but there are precut Chevelle kits that are probably 90% of the way to fitting a Cutlass.Keep in mind that this stuff doesn't need to be EXACTLY the right shape. The attenuation primarily comes from mass-loading of the sheet metal. An inch or so difference here and there won't make a noticeable difference.
As noted, the Dynamat-style deadener sheets are pretty easy to cut, but there are precut Chevelle kits that are probably 90% of the way to fitting a Cutlass.Keep in mind that this stuff doesn't need to be EXACTLY the right shape. The attenuation primarily comes from mass-loading of the sheet metal. An inch or so difference here and there won't make a noticeable difference.
One upvote for Dynamat. It ain’t cheap, or lightweight but it makes a different. In both of my big cars I did the complete floors from trunk to the firewall. It’s a lot of material and no one makes any kind of kit for big cars. I wasn’t being careful about attenuation, I was aiming at overkill.
A few years after I did the floors, I pulled the headliner in my ‘66 Starfire and did the roof. Very good fix. I still should do the C pillars one day, but I’m in no rush until I my windows just so. Many people believe Dynamat won’t stick to the roof underside, but after a thorough cleaning of the old GM cardboard cottage cheese and degreasing, I’ve not had even a hint of a problem. Very messy to do the roof though as the old stuff gets in your eyes, clothes, everywhere.
To be more sensible than me, I’d recommend starting with their A-body kit and see if you want to go beyond that. Whatever brand you settle on, you’re looking for aluminum backed sticky butyl rubber for the mass loading as mentioned above.
If you want, Dynamat makes a related foam product (can’t recall the name) which substitutes and improves over the old GM carpet underpayment.
down in the entire floor board, top of kick panel to rear of rear under-seat, of my '68 4-4-2. after rust removal, sealing and painting. BTW my '68 did not have any factory sound deadener under the rear seat, nor behind the seat-back. Dynamat works well. I bought boxes of rectangular sheets. Went down fairly easily. Beware, though, wear good leather gloves when cutting, fitting, placing, and finally sticking the stuff down. The foil backing shredded my fingers and hands
Like others have said, it is heavy. I've 2/3 of a box left over (6 of 9 sheets of 18"x36"), about 24 SqFt, but shipping may be $$$. PM me if interested.
Last edited by BackInTheGame; Jun 4, 2023 at 08:42 AM.
Reason: (added pic)
I forgot to mention dynaliner is a good 2nd layer complement to dynamat / dynamat extreme. It replaces and improves over the old batting GM used to use beneath carpets. It’s more or less dense closed cell foam rubber. Doesn’t absorb water either, although that may create its own problems.
I had the my Starfire interior out last week & rediscovered I’d used dynaliner as an experiment. If my car is any guide, it helps deaden noise beneath carpets & the rear seat. I consider the experiment a success.
If you’re aiming at as-close-to-modern-car-quiet as you can get with these 60’s cars, it’ll help.
