Dynamat
#1
Dynamat
Has anybody used dynamat? i am contemplating whether i wanna spend that extra money to buy the dynamat sound deadener instead of the one that comes in the kit with the carpet. Is it worth the cost? is there an alternative that is cheaper but just as good? new to the science of sound deadening. Thanks in advance for any help..
#2
Plenty of alternatives. Go to ebay and type in dynamat and you will see their competitors. Just compare apples to apples though. 50 mill thickness foil on one side and peel off on the other. I used dynamat on part of my '47 and Noico on the other half and could not tell the difference between them except price. Noico is about 50-60% less expensive of course no one famous endorses it. Fatmat is another alternative that was suggested by one of the body shop guys I know.
Do not expect any sound deadener to work miracles. Its mostly good for enhancing audio sound. Not real good as insulation and it needs a second product close to it to really cut outside sound. Read up on it on the Internet. There is a lot of information there.
ps. don't know what comes in a kit with carpet unless you are talking about the carpet pad which is an effective second layer at both sound deadening and insulating.
Jerry
Do not expect any sound deadener to work miracles. Its mostly good for enhancing audio sound. Not real good as insulation and it needs a second product close to it to really cut outside sound. Read up on it on the Internet. There is a lot of information there.
ps. don't know what comes in a kit with carpet unless you are talking about the carpet pad which is an effective second layer at both sound deadening and insulating.
Jerry
#3
ok great i will look up their competitors. When you say insulation are you talking about a jute type thing on top of the dynamat or whatever i choose or something else? And yes the carpet pad is what i was refering to
#4
The generic stuff I bought on eBay didn't stick very well. Although my surface prep wasn't the best, either. Watch the smell. Some products have a heavy, rubbery smell and some outright smell like asphalt, although most say the odor goes away. Look for Butyl-based products. I read they're less smelly and not flammable like the asphalt products.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#5
Nothing came with my carpet from Trim Parts so I can't comment on that.
#6
Sound deadners and insulation
In doors, kick panels, quarter panel and in trunk start with the black sticky butyl with foil face. It mostly stops metal panels from sounding tinny but is not real good at stopping outside sounds from penetrating. For that you need something that will absorb sound and insulate plus not suck up moisture so don't use jute there. Do some research on line to find a product that seems best. When applied it should not adhere to the sound deadener as you need some dead air space between them. Same principle as double pane windows. Do all the same stuff to the cabin side of your firewall as that is the source of a lot of sound, vibration and heat.
IMHO the trunk area is optional for the extra treatment but if you are not going to do it you should do the panel that separates the trunk area from the passenger area.
Take a look at this write up: http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html Notice in particular how he hung the insulating product in the door panel -- out away from inner door skin. I've seen and bought a roll of a similar product at the Portland Swap Meet and intend to use it on my 47 in addition to the butyl sticky stuff.
#7
Beware of the competitors product, some of that stuff will melt and ooze in hi temp areas or where the sun beats down on it. You will have an oozing sticky mess as it runs out of the door drains and other places.
#8
Sound Deadener and Insulation
Good Advice. Shop for value not the lowest price. The stuff sold at the building supply stores may be cheap but it will do what Eric says. It is not intended for auto use.
Fatmat has the endorsement of my body shop guy and like I said earlier, I couldn't tell the difference between Dynamat and Noico except for the printing on the product surface (Noico has none) and Noico comes in plain brown box without the celebrity endorsement. One reason Dynamat costs more is the very aggressive advertising they do in almost all the magazines and on line plus whatever Chip Foose gets for his endorsement. BTW, I think Chip is a good guy and Dynamat is a good product. I just don't think its superior to the two products mentioned above. Remember, these are sound deadeners not insulation. You need an additional product for that.
#11
fat mat
I too just installed fat mat 80mil. I doubled up over the transmission tunnel . I went from the top of firewall and all the way to the trunk. It goes down easy and sticks good as long as floor is clean. All I did was vaccumm the floor. My floors were in great shape with very little rust. I did not notice any smell. I drove the car around for an half hour or so , car seemed quiter. I was looking more heat reduction than anything else. In that half hour, I did notice the interior was cooler. We will see after the mosoon in Missouri stops and get back to normal weather. I got mine fat mat from e-bay.
#12
I made a thread a while back reviewing my full dynamat install.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rth-waste.html
It all depends on how and how often you use your car.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rth-waste.html
It all depends on how and how often you use your car.
#13
On the floor you will want something butyl and 50 mils or so in thickness. It mostly stops sound from bouncing around (echoing). On top of that you can go straight to carpet pad which is a jute like fiber and then finally to carpet. I would not use house carpet pad as its not designed to take moisture and extreme temp variations.
In doors, kick panels, quarter panel and in trunk start with the black sticky butyl with foil face. It mostly stops metal panels from sounding tinny but is not real good at stopping outside sounds from penetrating. For that you need something that will absorb sound and insulate plus not suck up moisture so don't use jute there. Do some research on line to find a product that seems best. When applied it should not adhere to the sound deadener as you need some dead air space between them. Same principle as double pane windows. Do all the same stuff to the cabin side of your firewall as that is the source of a lot of sound, vibration and heat.
IMHO the trunk area is optional for the extra treatment but if you are not going to do it you should do the panel that separates the trunk area from the passenger area.
Take a look at this write up: http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html Notice in particular how he hung the insulating product in the door panel -- out away from inner door skin. I've seen and bought a roll of a similar product at the Portland Swap Meet and intend to use it on my 47 in addition to the butyl sticky stuff.
In doors, kick panels, quarter panel and in trunk start with the black sticky butyl with foil face. It mostly stops metal panels from sounding tinny but is not real good at stopping outside sounds from penetrating. For that you need something that will absorb sound and insulate plus not suck up moisture so don't use jute there. Do some research on line to find a product that seems best. When applied it should not adhere to the sound deadener as you need some dead air space between them. Same principle as double pane windows. Do all the same stuff to the cabin side of your firewall as that is the source of a lot of sound, vibration and heat.
IMHO the trunk area is optional for the extra treatment but if you are not going to do it you should do the panel that separates the trunk area from the passenger area.
Take a look at this write up: http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html Notice in particular how he hung the insulating product in the door panel -- out away from inner door skin. I've seen and bought a roll of a similar product at the Portland Swap Meet and intend to use it on my 47 in addition to the butyl sticky stuff.
#14
I did the exact same and car drives solidly. Only drawback is it can be costly, time consuming, and (deadener) adds weight. However in the end, i found it worth it for a car I will keep until I die.
#15
I can't speak for the doors, Oldcutlass may have a point there, but I used the stuff they sell at Home Depot for $16 on my floor and it's working well. Laid it down on the floor pan, followed by the factory insulation and carpet. I specifically put it above the exhaust pipes and mufflers, and used what I had left over on the transmission tunnel. It stuck, has helped to cut down some noise, and doesn't smell. The automotive-specific products are obviously sold as automotive-specific, but this stuff was WAY cheaper, and has been equally effective as the Dynamat someone installed in another one of my cars.
Additionally, prior to installing the carpet, I had floor mats over the bare floors. The factory seam sealer melted and became gooey between the mats and the floor. This is not ideal, but shows the factory also used less-than-inert materials.
Additionally, prior to installing the carpet, I had floor mats over the bare floors. The factory seam sealer melted and became gooey between the mats and the floor. This is not ideal, but shows the factory also used less-than-inert materials.
#16
Is the 16 dollar stuff you were talking about from home Depot called peel n seal? Because I've been reading a lot and this product comes up alot. I've seen three videos where people swear by it. You have had no issue with it smelling or oozing in extreme heat?
#17
It's under my carpet, so I don't know if it's oozing, but it is definitely not smelling. It's right over the hottest parts of the floor pan, if I was going to have any issues, I think they would have cropped up by now. I don't remember the name of it, but I believe it was made by Frost King? Not positive, I can find out if you want.
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