I purchased a 3'x33' roll of FatMat (DynaMat family) for $150 delivered.

What would be the best way to put this stuff down on the floor?

Any suggestions on the size(s) I should cut this into?

Do I need a heat gun to put it down properly?

Best way to do the interior firewall?

Best way to do the inside of the doors?

Any an all suggestions/comments/tips would be greatly appreciated!

 

When I put mine down, I learned quickly the most important lesson: Make sure the surface is absolutely dry!!!!!. Even a little condensation from running a propane heater affected its adhestion.
It molds and stretches pretty well with a small roller. I heated the roll up to about 100 degrees in the oven, that might have made it a little more flexible and sticky.
I had the whole interior out so I stripped out the firewall insulation and stuck it everywhere, then put new insulation over it. I also put it on the door face under the panels.
DSCN0254.jpg

 

Nice Job! I have the entire interior out with fresh paint everywhere.

What size sections did you cut it into?

What was the "process" you used?

Example: Cut a 3'x3' section, lay it out, cut to fit, roll in place to fit contours, then take the adhesive protector and stick in place?

 

I cut the pieces to the approximate size, as big as was practical to handle. Heated the sections. Peeled off the backing as I unrolled each section and worked it into all the contours with the roller they supplied. Then cut off any excess.

 

When I did mine I just cut the major flattest sections and cut them and layed them out. Once those were cut I rolled them down one at a time and them went back and did the more contoured areas with scraps from what I had cut. I also used aluminum tape at each seam to keep from making a big mess scooting around inside the floor for the day.

 

Here are some posts that may help you...

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post60544

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post63224

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post64083

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post160519

 

I forgot to mention that important step. Make sure to only peel off the backing a few inches at a time. I made the mistake on my first piece of peeling off the whole thing thinking I could lay it down like I wanted. I ended up wasting a 1/4 of the sheet. The stuff sticks to itself VERY well.

 

x2 on really clean! Mine went on well over por15, I didn't need to heat Florida summer.
Save all the scraps, I had enough left over to do my package tray.

 

It also will pull POR15 up once it is stuck to it! Make sure it is the way you want it BEFORE pressing into place. If you mess up, stop and cut off the rest and re-lay that part.
I swore I would never ever mess with that stuff again, but I just might do a wagon when i get one...

 

hey stan that seems like a really good price where did you get it ??

 

Bought it on FleBay. It was actually $159 delivered for the roll.

I am not endorsing it yet! I will start installing tonight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-80-Mil-R...item2a0dd6c737

 

Hey Rob, thanks for the instructions. You take pics like me! Are you a schoolteacher?

 

A-Body University!

Dynamat works great over the talkative students' mouths...

 

I finished the firewall and back to the front seats tonight. Rob, you are a twisted soul to get all the "Dynamat" logos going the same way. How the heck did you do that?!

 

I wonder about that, too.
You are certainly not the first one to have noticed that...
In fact someone else said I was twisted as well............

 

Not busting on D-mat, but when I did my salon, I did a search on the bay and found Fatmat without the lettering, for about 1/2 the price and made by the same company. Lot quieter inside. The roll I bought was able to do the entire floor and behind the rear seat, covering the cardboard seperator going to the trunk.

 

Real life reviews to alternates to the D are much appreciated. I made a thread "Dynamat - worth it or a waste" long ago and was lorn to which way to go.
D is very expensive and would prefer fatso should I do this again.

 

I used fatmat also and seemed to be pretty good stuff and yes much less money heres some pics of it

 

FYI, I used Fatmat based on price. Very happy with the results and no labels to keep in line

 

i have done 2 vetts in "Dynamat worked well but did my olds in fire and ice roofing mat one roll did the car for 60 bucks

 

Asphalt stuff will not work in hot climates - it will melt and smell horrible forever.

 

its not asphalt its rubber. sticky on one side plastic cover on the other all the body shops use it

 

Well, that's different then! Will look into that when the next layout happens.

 

I see alot of verts posting on this subject. Been wondering if its worth the effort due to noise from above. Will it quiet enough just from the floor/firewall?

 

Did you lay the edges over each other or butt them up to each other? This is something i am very interested in doing to my convertible not for the noise but for the heat. is there a brand that is more effective at heat reduction?

 

you lay the pieces down and butt them together. If you overlap, there will be bumps.

 

Keep in mind that it doesn't have to be perfect to deaden sound. There can be slight gaps, etc, and it won't have a negative dramatic effect overall.

Also note that just because it have an aluminum foil cover, it's doesn't shield heat as much as you would think. There are other products though that specifically shield heat that you can use with the sound deadener. Dynamat has 'Dyna-liner', which is the heat barrier product. It is meant to be used over Dynamat.

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Agree 100%. I used the dynaliner over the extreme stuff and it seems to do well.

 

For heat, I used Reflexit in the footwells of my 68 corvette. It made a huge difference. When I did the olds, I used fatmat for sound, followed by reflexit for heat. Then threw the factory sound deadener, carpet with jute insulation backing for heat.
Kind of overkill, but it's quiet and cool.

 

Where do get this stuff ? Home Depot?