I was going to install the 2 piece ACC carpet today but didn’t want to half *** it so I’m wondering if there’s a post or video with instructions anywhere? 71 Cutlass S with auto on the floor. Thanks guys!

 

Specifically where the built in heel pad is positioned in relation to the pedals?

 

I'll try to snap a couple pics showing the heel pad/pedal positioning but it may not be today. Good call on your point b/c you want to make sure you have the carpet far enough FORWARD . Most likely you will need to trim the forward edge of the carpet where it slips UNDER the lower edge of your firewall pad. It is usually cut/molded with plenty of excess up there but that is BETTER than the alternative of them trying to "predetermine" and cut everything very close.

There should be some slight, molded-in "bumps" towards the back edge of the front carpet piece. Those are for the rise/step in the floorpan where it runs up to the seat mounting spots. You want the carpet far enough forward so those "bumps" and any upward step in the carpet is sitting correctly.

What ever you do.....DO NOT trim any outboard edges until you are satisfied with everything else. These carpet sets can sometimes barely have enough material to tuck under the kick panels on one side or the other. Check, check and triple check things first.

 

I didn't have to trim the front. Use soldering iron to make holes for seat belts and seat bolts. For the shifter/center console, start with a small hole and cut only what's needed to get around the bracket.

 

I used 1/2 inch copper pipe heated by a propane torch to make the seat bolt holes.
the holes come out perfectly seared

 

that was another question I had; whether the bracket went over the carpet or not

 

very cool and thanks for the details. I won’t be trying the carpet again for another week so no rush on the pictures but they are very much appreciated!

 

A few carpet/pedal/heel pad pics - '70 442 w/new carpet....

 

Thank you much! Helps me a lot

 

May I suggest being very careful and conservative when you cut the carpet for your console. The first time I did mine, I was certain that my cut was perfect but when I got it in it looked like I had taken out too much from the sides and back. Sure enough, when I put on the console, I did take out too much and had to start all over again with a new carpet kit. Dittos on what the others recommended.

Randy C.

'68 4-4-2 convertible (bench seat so carpet was easy to install)
'69 4-4-2 convertible (the one with buckets and console that took two times to get carpet right)

 

Make sure you snug the seat belt bolts on the tunnel before you trim by the rockers, as it will pull the carpet in farther.

 

If you just bought it let it sit in the sun for 2 weeks to let dry. So wait on the drying to happen.
Gerald

 

I’ve had it laid out in the house for 2-3 weeks. Too cold to leave outside

 

Do I need to cut around the shifter bracket or can the bracket lay on top of the carpet and just work around the shift cable?

 

Carpet goes over the top of seat mounts.

 

Thanks but does it go over center console shifter bracket/console mount holes?

 

I don't recall/know if the center console carpet is shaped differently (as in the shaped pattern they create when they manufacture the carpet) - than the carpet produced for a non-center console. You should probably lay the carpet down and review how the rise of the hump over the transmission floor-pan protrudes relative to the shape/contour of the carpet you are using. You may or you may not have to cut a small area from where the carpet lays underneath the center console. Your issue will be how does the mold/contour of the carpet meet the rise on each side of the bottom of the center-console. My suggestion is to make small hash cuts around each of the mount holes - some cuts may need to be a little longer than others on one side or the other. In this way, you're provided with some wiggle room (leniency) from which you can garner some tug & pull until you decide which way works best for you. Not all carpet manufacturers are created equal and not all carpets delivered are necessarily shaped with the appropriate contour.

 

Another option is to create a cross-hatch pattern to provide some leniency for tug/pull while determining best case scenario without compromising the carpet (which won't be seen under the center console).

 

From a brother member (not me). Probably the single most important thing, besides over-cutting.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-tracks-13017/

 

I have the 2 pieces laid in but not sure where to go from here. In the pictures you can see that the front piece overlaps the back piece around 7 inches. Does it look like the front piece needs to go forward more? If so, I think I’ll need to trim the front because it’s bottoming out at the tunnel/firewall area.

 

The front carpet overlaps the rear carpet by ~7" the entire width of the vehicle - this is normal. Don't worry if it's 5", 6", 6.5", 7" or whatever - there will remain an overlap - this is normal. You're not docking to a space ship you're installing a piece of carpet.

It does not look like the front piece needs to go forward - if it does, then move it forward - you have plenty of overlap. Make the best fit you can at the firewall and the left-hand side & right-hand side kick panels, make the cut-out for the high beam floor switch, install the driver's side firewall cover, make your holes for the seat mounts, center console mounts, seat belts, trim the carpet edges so they remain long enough to be tucked under the door/floor rocker panels & you're done.

 

Are you guys glueing it down?

 

No

 

No glue needed anywhere or used. A little info...Your car looks like it has AC. I'm not positive about 71, but most AC cars had extra mats for insulation and heat resistance in the front. Those were used along with the jute backed carpet and factory asphalt paper. Now they sell bare carpets, carpets with different thicknesses of jute, and mass backed carpets. The thickest jute backed carpet now is not as thick as the original. The stuff on the floor you used looks ok, but it would be better to have more coverage, especially if you have AC and use it. At least, that's my opinion. Finally, it's good to have some extra jute, to use small pieces or strips to fill in any sags like around the sides of the tunnel. You can go to Home Depot and buy a yard or 2. If your old backing is not smelly or falling apart, you can maybe use that. As Norm mentioned the overlap is no big deal. What's on the back of the new carpet?

 

Yes it is a factory AC car but the compressor has been removed by previous owner. The new carpet is jute backed. Purchasing extra jute is a great idea because I’m having issues with the fitting around the tunnel. I have the shifter cut out dialed in as well as the grommet for the brights but it just isn’t as tight and molded as I thought it would be which is why I wondered if glue was needed. I will pick up some extra jute and see if that helps with the voids/sags.

 

I see, what happens is all those layers add up. So if one or more are missing, then the carpet can be too short on the sides or elsewhere. All those big hardware stores have the jute. The tunnel area is always problematic. I've had to do that on many rugs before.

 

I may have went overkill but ended up laying down carpet pad pretty much everywhere. Almost done with the carpet

 

wait...how did it turn out?
what was the finished product?
was the extra jute too much?
details and an ending to the story??