64 Cutlass dash removal ?
#1
64 Cutlass dash removal ?
I am in the process of gutting the interior for restoration. I want to remove the dash but I cannot get the ***** off the light and windshield wiper controls. Tried rotating, pulling and looking for a set screw, but nothing worked. Maybe more force is needed, but before I do that I wanted to confirm with the experts on this site about the proper way to remove the dash. Thanks for the advice.
#2
Light control has a little button on the switch under the dash...press the button in while pushing and pulling on the **** and it will pull out attached to the shaft..wiper should have a set screw I believe
#3
I am pretty sure they used set screws in 64. The light **** and rod can be pulled by pressing the spring tab on the underside of light switch and pull while holding the tab in. Look for a tiny set screw for the wiper ****. ah just beat me to it.
#5
Removed the dash last night, boy was that a blast. Good thing I had a mask to wear otherwise all that 45 yearold insulation would have been in my lungs this morning...now I am wondering if asbestos was in that insulation. Anyway, found all the proper bolts and nuts to remove the whole dash. Will hopefully start on the repain in the next day or so. Will post photos after that is done.
#6
Another question. The paint code for the dash states to use flat on the upper metal and gloss on the lower metal. However, I am curious if you guys used lacquer paint to do this job. Thanks for the help. I was thinking of using a flat on the top and semi-gloss, rather than full gloss on the bottom.
#8
update with pics
So I was able to spray the dash black, painted the instrument panel and detailed all the bright work.
before photo
64Cutlassrestoration013.jpg
after photo of metal dash with semi-gloss
64Cutlassrestoration074.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration075.jpg
back seat before
64Cutlassrestoration060.jpg
back seat after reupholstering
64Cutlassrestoration063.jpg
instrument panel and dash cover after the painting with semi-gloss and SEM to the dash cover...dash cover still has crack...will maybe have Just Dashes recover in the future but $900 is a little steep right now
64Cutlassrestoration070.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration071.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration073.jpg
before photo
64Cutlassrestoration013.jpg
after photo of metal dash with semi-gloss
64Cutlassrestoration074.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration075.jpg
back seat before
64Cutlassrestoration060.jpg
back seat after reupholstering
64Cutlassrestoration063.jpg
instrument panel and dash cover after the painting with semi-gloss and SEM to the dash cover...dash cover still has crack...will maybe have Just Dashes recover in the future but $900 is a little steep right now
64Cutlassrestoration070.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration071.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration073.jpg
#11
Finished the floor
I wire brushed, degreased, and then finally cleaned the floor with soap and water. I was fortunate to only have some minor surface rust in the right, front pan. Had to fill a couple holes...not rust holes...the Fremont plant decided to use sheetmetal nails to tack the insulation down. Anyone else experience this from Fremont or any other plant for that matter? After all the floor prep was complete, I used black POR-15 to seal the floor. Two coats were placed on the floor. Used about 7/8th of a pint of POR-15. Great stuff!! Be sure to wear gloves when applying b/c it likes to adhere to skin as much as metal.
64Cutlassrestoration035.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration038.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration076.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration077.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration078.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration035.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration038.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration076.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration077.jpg
64Cutlassrestoration078.jpg
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mrnursedude
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November 12th, 2019 03:27 AM