I am not surprised that the fire extinguisher was not as effective as I (and probably most of us) would have thought.

I have always had them in my old cars, club rules or old habit, Dad maybe, but I had a close call with a 66 T Bird and starter solenoid and was dumb and hit it with fire extinguisher (there was no fire only smoke) but Dad said that the extinguisher would not work on electrical fires.

I always wondered about that. So what works on electrical fires? We should have that too

but my friend google found this:

Electrical fire may be fought in the same way as an ordinary combustible fire, but water, foam, and other conductive agents are not to be used. While the fire is, or could possibly be electrically energized, it can be fought with any extinguishing agent rated for electrical fire. Carbon dioxide CO2, FM-200 and dry chemical powder extinguishers such as PKP and even baking soda are especially suited to extinguishing this sort of fire. This should be your last resort solution to extinguishing the fire due to PKP's corrosive tendencies. Once electricity is shut off to the equipment involved, it will generally become an ordinary combustible fire.

Maybe he was thinking of water for an elec fire which is a no-no

 

Wow, i cant even imagine how it feels. Im truly sorry.

Others have advice to offer and i feel obligated to offer some too.

When you wake up tomorrow you will have a different outlook and the day after that a different outlook. The initial emmotions will lessen over the next few days and that will help you understand what you will do next.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

jefferyalman brings up a good point. I have heard about this type. Not the cheapest

http://www.h3rperformance.com/halguard_products.htm

 

Jamesboro: I'm like everyone else, just sick about your situation! I would suggest sitting back for a bit and just taking it easy before hauling it off for junk. 1 of 500! Sure is food for thought to have a HANDY extinguisher in the car; never thought of the quick disconnect for that purpose, more of a theft deterrent (keep an honest person honest, IOW's). My heart goes out to you.
Aron

 

Fire in a car is always a nasty mess but once you have let a couple weeks pass and the insurance ironed out it's not that bad. The roof may be a pain but most of this damage should be repairable even if the dash is warped.
I feel your pain but no injuries or life lost so your ahead that way.
Step back and catch your breath and go swear at it. You'll feel better.

 

That is a kick in the ***** . I will be interested in what they have to say and how it all comes out in the end . I feel like the guy who is moving in on a just widowed woman by saying this but I will be interested in some parts if you buy it back and part it.

 

it feels weird asking also but i would also be interested in some parts that i am missing for my car also, but hopefully you don't part it out an restore the car in my personal opinion. finding a donor car shouldn't be that hard though for a replacement on the interior i would think. definitely keep us posted on how it goes.

 

I am very sorry to read about your loss. Maybe it is a bad time to bring up similar things and fixes, but here goes:
A friend in Fairmont WV whom I knew while going to WVU for grad school in Morgantown lost his 69 H/O due to an electrical fire back in the mid 1970s.

I am presently putting in the NHRA type electircal kill switch in my rear bumper of my 66. I have worried about it vs. originality but made the decision even before your tragedy which possibly could have been prevented with just the flick of a switch.

The only Olds engines I have seen after they had burned up, and there have been several, were Tri Carb equipped. I believe fuel leaks from the glass bowl filter and all those compression fittings on the fuel lines were the cause. I eliminated the oh-so-stock glass bowl filter a year ago, and put in a piece of 3/8" steel line from carb distribution block down to the fuel pump area. I cringe when I see cars with in line filters laying on the intake manifold, and rubber lines to them.

It is sad to lose a car especially after a lot of restoration work. At this point in my life I have given up on satisfying the most die hard purists while leaving intact engineering "masterpieces" that have proven over the decades to be anything but.

 

Well me personally it makes me sick to my stomach looking at those pictures,This is a dream car for some Olds guys and Iam truly sad of its demise.......I would purchase it back if remotely possible and either pass it on to someone who would restore it or try to make it new again myself,Way to rare of car to scrap out IMHO...............just sick.....Blehhhhhh

 

That hurts, it really does. But I'm an eternal optimist! 1 of 500 should be saved, and as so many have already commented it can be done. Maybe you could farm out the work that your knees won't let you do! As others have said take your time making the decision to sell it or not. With your knowledge of the 1969's you could make a list of what it would take, then decide how much you'd have to pay someone else to do. Deeply grieved to see the pictures, but glad your OK. John

 

Yikes! Now I wanna puke!
That's terrible... sorry about your loss and hope all works out for you.
Hopefully you can get the car back at a reasonable price...

 

Thanks Guys [and Sandy]

Don't feel bad asking for parts if you need them what would you want? My decission making process always begins with gathering information.

Initially my logic told me, If there about 500 left how many don't have all the parts they need?
Now I would like to know who needs what.

I can't promise I'll sell anything off of it, but it's good information to help in my decision making process.

Thanks again for everyones support and thoughts concerning this mess.

Maybe today the adjuster will show up.

 

Wow, can't even imagine how you feel. Take your time in making any decisions you may regret. (wish I had never sold that car)

Thank god the fire didn't start when parked in your garage during the night.

Your luck may be changing, your last post was at 4:42

 

Jamesbo, Keep in mind that the car is yours as long as you want it to be. Whatever the adjuster says it is your car and not theirs until you sign it over to them which we all hope you dont. the car is worth more to you and athers then the insurance company. If you just want to move on you can negotiate the settlement if it is not totaled have them cut you the check then you have the car and the repair money. Maybe at that time the decision will be easier. Believe it or not you may come out ahead here. With all of the resources you can get the car back together cheaper than the insurance company can and may be able to farm out the work, get the car done and have a little left. I am sure many here would help out where we could. Make sure you protect the vehicles title if possible in the settlement and make sure to keep in mind that it is your property and you make the decisions on how to proceed.

Good luck

 

May not apply to your state but I can give you some feedback on how many states handle write-off rebuilds.

It'll be issued a salvage title. Once you repair/replace all the items that caused it to be issued "salvage" then you call the dmv/rmv and setup an appointment to get it recertified for a regular title. The inspections are very few and far between and you have to pay for it out of pocket. If it passes inspection then they'll allow it to be retitled and you can go back to normal.

* For those who live in states that have yearly safety inspections, think of something like that inspection, but being done by a lawyer who wants really badly to fail the car.

 

James;

Chiming in late on this, recently got back from the H/OCA Nats... Sorry to hear of this, can't even imagine what it was like at the time of the fire. Just to echo what others have been saying, no need to make any decisions immediately, take time to carefully assess what is needed. Let me know if I can help in any manner, even if it's just for encouragement.

 

James, I know I am new around here, but I have too say this is truely devistating to you and all of the fans of the mighty '69 H/O. I am glad to here you are safe though.

I know that this has to rip your heart out, as it also does the many other Olds lovers around here. We really pour out our heart and souls on these cars.

I can't imagine what it would be like seeing all of this unfold right before your eyes.

IMHO, the '69 H/O was the best car ever produced, to wear the Oldsmobile badge PERIOD! I love my '70, but I would trade it in a heartbeat for a '69 H/O. The '69 H/O has such a wow factor that when one is seen at a car show or on the street, everybody takes notice!

With this said, I know this is not my car or my mess to deal with, but PLEASE DO NOT PART IT OUT! She desearves better than that, She can be brought back to her former glory, either by you or somebody else.

I know you have been knocked off of your horse, but give it some time to think things thru and then I know you will do right by her.

 

Thanks again all,

I just got off the phone with the adjuster. He'll meet me tomorrow at 11:00 a.m. . I guess because of the size of the claim he's bringing another Insurance Grand Poobah with him.

After a brief discussion him, I feel fairly certain, they're gonna total it.
The question remaining is what can I buy it back for.

Jeff,

The H/O Club of America "price watch" puts a parts car at $22,500- $30,000 with an adverage of $22,833. What do you think of these numbers in todays market?

Of course the numbers on their chart are all over the place spread wise.

 

I would try to negotiate hard on a dollar that is fair, gives you to opputunity to rebuild or come as close to whole as possible without the branded/salvaged title and then decide to rebuild or sell it and be able to have a clean title.

 

Thanks Luvr,

For the life of me I can figure out why it would make any difference if they did or did not "total it if the same $$$ are involved.

Using hypothetical numbers

The car is worth $1,000 and is insured for $850.00.
If the damage is at or above $850.00 and I'm willing to buy it for say $200. Why can't they just write me a check for $650 and me keep the car. What's the point in totaling it.

 

James,
First question is, who was it insured with. Second is, what was it insured for? Third, was it an aggreed value policy?

If you have an aggeed value policy then thats what they are willing to give you for the car if its totalled (which I think its not). To keep it, its usually a percentage of the total amount they'd give you for the car plus state tax for the total value, plus a bs admin fee.

IMO, the car is not totalled if it was insured for the proper amount. It doesnt look like it would be more than 30-40k at most to put that back together, including parts and labor at a reputable restoration shop. And if you had it insured for 50-60, its not totalled. Most insurance companies are 75 or 80% of the agreed value to be totalled. Plus, if you have most of the parts in stock, you'll collect the parts money out of the insurance money.

As for the NOT pulling the body off the frame. You would have to do this. Just to blast and etch prime/paint the underside of the floors which look to me like they got cooked.

The dash, roof and other welded parts are replacable. Everything else bolts on.

My brother used to buy burned cars at the auction all the time. He prefered changing a burned interior to repairing a wreck anyday. Me on the other hand am squeemish around burned cars for some reason, I'll fix the wrecks instead.

Keep a list of questions for the ins co. Dont sign anything releasing the car. And talk to us here before you make any decisions you may regret later. The ins co will try to rush you into settling the claim. Dont be rushed or confused by their tacktics.

If you dont want to do the work yourself. Just get online and start looking for restoration shops. I know there's one in Virginia that does antiques and classic repairs for the insurance companies.
Good luck!

 

will send a message to you on what parts i would be interested in.

 

James, That is a good question and depending on the company will be cart of the negotiations. I have been on both sides. 1 I was cashed out for and given the cost of the car and kept the car with no paper trail and then others went through the total process. If the insurance company will play ball you can mitigate their loses and by doing that protect the title of the car. My guess is it will not total and the repairs can be less if you farm it out but we will all see. When my last one was totaled I worried but it all worked out and this will work out for you.

Not an easy process but you will be fine and have a lot of support. If all goes well you can have it back on the road come summer

 

I'd say too high for today's market, prob 10k too high. I know someone who bought a rough one for @ 28k not too long ago, but it was running and all there, definitely not a parts car...

 

i picked mine up about 3 to 4 months ago and i paid 21k, non matching engine mind you though.

 

Man, what a bummer!!!!! If you have (had) good insurance you should be O.K. I hate to tell you this but, I 've been around cars all of my life (so far) and I have yet to see paint stick on metal that was in a fire. The metallurgy changes and it just ain't the same. I have tried many different ways and the paint never adheres properly. Also, the burnt plastic smell seems to permeate anything around it. My suggestion is to try to buy the car back and look for another body----I know it sounds less than honorable but in this case and considering the amount of time and work involved it might be your best bet. I have seen fully documented re-bodies sell for almost the same money as a restored original. All of the "Hurst" pieces can be salvaged, refurbished, and used again. Good luck with whatever decision you make. My father tried to resurrect a '66 Toro fire-job when the car was only months old---new parts were readily available but, the car was NEVER the same and my mother refused to drive it. He bought it for pennies on the dollar, fixed it, and barely got his money back.

 

Jamesbo,

I wish you the very best in getting this resolved.

For all you folks out there reading this, you need to consider having AGREED VALUE insurance on your car. If something like this happens, then a totaled car gets the full amount that was agreed to.

Secondly, if you have any doubts about your wiring, replace it. It is much cheaper to spend a few hundred dollars on new harnesses than deal with a fire.

Also, see comments about an extinguisher and a battery disconnect switch.

 

Jamesbo
personally I would fix it. it is not as bad as it looks. I am finishing a 68 Chevelle at work that the only exterior panels we could save were the hood, trunk lid and one fender, we even had to change the frame. My 65 Mustang fastback I am building for my daughter is the opposite of yours, the only salvagable part is the roof. I have 70 cutlass post shell that is going to the scrap yard soon and the roof structure is the same I believe. I am in Dahlonega so I am not that far from you. it has the A/C inner heater box in it also. you can have it if it will work as I am not that far from you. if you want you can call me on my cell during the day at 954-270-2628 (florida cell but I am in N. Georgia). If you need any help on it I have fixed far worse so this one aint no hill for a climber.
good luck with the ins. guys
steve schmidt

 

I think that wagon would look nice all h/oed up with the parts too.

 

James, just heard about this in the other thread on extinguishers. I am so sorry for what happened, can't really believe it. As others have said, if at all possible, buy it back. Put a new interior in it, we all know how a new car interior smells, mmmmm. Paint, and you're back. Hang in there.

 

So sorry to hear this! You might want to check with Serv Pro fire restoration they might be able to offer you suggestions about how to clean some stuff up. Also you might check with Paul Russell, he is the restorer who does all of Ralph Larens million dollar automobiles.He would be able to give you some advice on how to go about repairing your Olds. Hope this helps. I would like to offer to donate to your cause if you are interested.Let me know.Good luck

 

Can't believe I am seeing this and so sorry I am. Hang in there things will work out especially if you have agreed value insurance. Over all it looks like a pretty easy fix.

 

Wow! My heart breaks just thinking of this.

I think you need to talk to a couple of Body shops that deal with insurance. They can explain the rules (California and Nevada rules are different).

My husband has a friend in Florida who does restorations. You may be able to contact him and ask about repairing and getting the smell out. His web site is http://www.classiccarcreations.net/. Tell him you know John and M'Lisa from Big M Auto.

I work in a body shop, but we total most burned vehicles because the are mostly plastic and everything melts.

I wish you all the luck with this.

 

I just showed this to my husband and he says that the car looks repairable. The roof would be a fairly easy repair. Most A-body parts can be used in the repair of this vehicle.

We are both sad to see this and offer any help we can.

Our friend in Tn. was restoring a 57 Plymouth for a gentleman in England when his shop burned to the ground. I have attached a picture of the car in flames and one as it is now.

John and M'Lisa Fowlie

 

Jamesbo, you are not so far from Scott Wilborn, <wilborn@mindspring.com> who does absolutely first rate restorations. He has done several 66 W30 and they look fantastic. He has great attention to detail, fit, finish, and correctness.

 

I am very sorry. I can only try to imagine how you must feel. As others have suggested, it is probably best to take your time before making a decision. I hope you do purchase the car back from the insurance company so you can control its destiny. It may be that you decide to sell because you feel it would never be the same and not wanting to go through all the hassle of having it rebuilt. I do hope that the car winds up being restored. They don't make any more of these and it was the best Olds ever in my opinion. Hang in there.

 

Jamesbo, I am simply heartbroken for your loss. Best wishes on a speedy resolution that makes you "whole" - however that may be.

 

I am really sorry to hear about this. I really hope you try to find some way to get the car restored whether you have to sell it or you do it. I am sure many people from the Olds community would be willing to donate time and parts to get it back together. I have always loved your car and hope to see it back to it's old self again.

 

For those of you who don't know Richard's skill level, check out his threads.


To all who have been so kinda as to send me encougagement and well wish, I just want to says Thanks, I am truely touch by everyones kind words.

CO is indeed a very special place.

 

Ultimate bummer!