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Masticated rubber versus neoprene for splash shields
OK, this is a bit out there, but the front splash shield on my '67 Toronado is huge - it goes from headlight to headlight and fully covers the area behind the trailing edge of the front bumper to the air dam. It's really torn up, and I'd like to replace it with new material. Masticated, or cloth-reinforced, rubber sheets or rolls are all over the place when you search the internet, but finding the correct size such that I can cut a new piece to fit has eluded me. I've been able to find some neoprene rubber sheets or rolls in the size I'm looking for at a reasonable price. Would this work in place of the cloth-reinforced material? It's such a pain to remove and replace I don't want to do this again. But the masticated sheets and rolls I've found are in the $500+ range. Solid rubber sheets (not sponge or foam) are in the $70 range. Thoughts? Suppliers at a reasonable cost?
For reference, here is the piece I'm trying to replace - I need a new piece approximately 16" x 80", 1/8" thick:
Last edited by BSiegPaint; Feb 8, 2024 at 04:45 AM.
I think what you're looking for is what's called SBR rubber - thick & rigid. Masticated simply means it's recycled rubber - most often the skag remaining from manufacturing (tires in particular).
Thanks, Norm - this really helped. I found what seems to be a suitable replacement material for this in a 42" x 72" sheet, and by tilting the pattern piece on this size I can cut a replacement. And for under $80. I'll post back up here when I get it and compare new versus old.
Bob - Good deal. I couldn't recall what it was commonly called but it's stickskirt board. Neoprene isn't going to possess the rigidity you need at the thickness you require - demonstrated by the fact it rolls up quite well. Good Luck.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Feb 8, 2024 at 05:24 AM.
My original splash shields on my cars don't seem to be very thick.Maybe Toros used some super heavy-duty stuff, I don't know.
Not sure where you're getting the 0.08 number, They advertise 3/32" (0935") which is closer to a tenth of an inch, and typical of all the other splash shields you can buy at Fusick's, etc., so you shouldn't need a ton of them. Just a big enough piece of it. Which is approximately the thickness of what's on my 69 and 71 just looking at them. They're supposed to be a little flexible and not rigid. Not too flexible, though. The type of rubber used makes a huge difference. That silicone based crap is way to jelly like IMO.
Next time I'm in the shop I'll measure them to make sure. I think they're the same thickness as the fender splash shields and the radiator side seals. I can't see them being over 1/8" thick.
You can always ask for a free sample and see if it works for you. Nothing but time wasted if you don't.
Aug 23, 2021 - 12:57 PM
The material is 0.080" thick. Keep in mind the thickness does vary slightly as intended. Our rolls are about 42" wide, 800' long. If you order online please send us an email with how you would like the material cut...for example if you order 6 sqft we can cut 1'x6' or 3'x2'.
Whichever product you choose I hope you get find what you're after. I've seen both types of rubber used on various cars - most likely the result of contractual agreements between vehicle manufacturers and supply manufacturers. Rubber products have changed significantly over the years. Good Luck.
Curiosity killed the cat. I went out to the shop and measured the easiest one of all, the 71's radiator seals. I wasn't crawling around on the cold floor to measure the bumper seal. Man, I need to replace those side seals. Getting pretty crispy but still in pretty decent shape. Regardless, I came up with a few readings but hovered right around 0.0845" on the digital calipers. Nothing scientific. But wondering if age had withered them some. Shrinkage.
I'd say even if it was somewhere in-between 0.08 and 0.0935, you'll be good to go.
With rubber sheeting, it's always going to be a nominal thickness anyway.
Curiosity killed the cat. I went out to the shop and measured the easiest one of all, the 71's radiator seals. I wasn't crawling around on the cold floor to measure the bumper seal. Man, I need to replace those side seals. Getting pretty crispy but still in pretty decent shape. Regardless, I came up with a few readings but hovered right around 0.0845" on the digital calipers. Nothing scientific. But wondering if age had withered them some. Shrinkage.
I'd say even if it was somewhere in-between 0.08 and 0.0935, you'll be good to go.
With rubber sheeting, it's always going to be a nominal thickness anyway.
I certainly appreciate the extra effort. I have a piece coming tomorrow (I bet it's the day after) and the real test will be the ability to stretch over the opening behind the bumper without sagging. The front edge of this piece is "pinned" in place by three flats of steel bolted to the bumper through slots in itself. Hard to explain without the diagram. And of course it needs to be flexible enough to be folded in half and pushed up behind the headlights, then push pinned in place. This car may be the death of me.
Curiosity killed the cat. I went out to the shop and measured the easiest one of all, the 71's radiator seals. I wasn't crawling around on the cold floor to measure the bumper seal. Man, I need to replace those side seals. Getting pretty crispy but still in pretty decent shape. Regardless, I came up with a few readings but hovered right around 0.0845" on the digital calipers. Nothing scientific. But wondering if age had withered them some. Shrinkage.
I'd say even if it was somewhere in-between 0.08 and 0.0935, you'll be good to go.
With rubber sheeting, it's always going to be a nominal thickness anyway.
Contact SEM directly. They're the company that makes the reproduction seals for Fusick and the other parts suppliers. You're lucky your original is mostly intact. You can send it to them to use as a template and they'll cut out a piece of the correct material for you. They'll even send you your original part back. Best part is it's relatively cheap and they're great to work with. And the finished product is as close to the original as you're going to get.
So the material I ordered from McMaster was WAY off. It didn't exactly match the description on the web site, but I can see from their perspective how it did. It's grey, not black, and softer and thinner than I expected. Anyway, I had ZERO idea that these guys were just a 40 minute drive from my house, and I'm driving there this morning to try and match what I need to what they have. Should have done that in the first place, but so many companies don't list their addresses anymore online that I don't even look for it. Just ship it! If they don't have what I'm looking for, I'll continue down the list of suggestions here.
Rubber the Right Way got back to me very quickly via email, and let me know that for the same price as the bulk material, they would take my original and have their engineers make me a duplicate - this would probably take 4-6 weeks - or they could just send me the bulk product. We're discussing back and forth, but with time constraints I may just end up making my own. I should have a decision tomorrow. I have not yet heard back from REM.
Rubber the Right Way got back to me very quickly via email, and let me know that for the same price as the bulk material, they would take my original and have their engineers make me a duplicate - this would probably take 4-6 weeks - or they could just send me the bulk product. We're discussing back and forth, but with time constraints I may just end up making my own. I should have a decision tomorrow. I have not yet heard back from REM.
Just a thought. And only a thought.
You have some professional engineers (I assume) design and cut a rare, hard to find seal. Now, they have a pattern. You know darn well you'll get a nice replacement piece ready to go, and they'll be able to supply other cars like yours with a "correct" fitting, hard to find part down the road. And you could maybe get one later if you get another Toro that needs that piece, who knows?
Maybe get a piece big enough to do yours, send them your old one and have them make another, and maybe sell it for what you had in it? This way everyone has a chance to win. Not sure about the calling for Toro splash shields, though.
I get it if there's time constraints, but that's just something to consider in the big picture.
You have some professional engineers (I assume) design and cut a rare, hard to find seal. Now, they have a pattern. You know darn well you'll get a nice replacement piece ready to go, and they'll be able to supply other cars like yours with a "correct" fitting, hard to find part down the road. And you could maybe get one later if you get another Toro that needs that piece, who knows?
Maybe get a piece big enough to do yours, send them your old one and have them make another, and maybe sell it for what you had in it? This way everyone has a chance to win. Not sure about the calling for Toro splash shields, though.
I get it if there's time constraints, but that's just something to consider in the big picture.
Oh, yes - no matter what they will get my original piece if they think it looks good enough from the photos I sent. At the very least they'll have a pattern in case someone else needs one. These things are ridiculous in size and installation... I may need to cut my own just based on the time frame I've set to get this car reassembled, that's all. I'm waiting for a return email from them today as to how we move forward
Finally getting to a follow up on this. Rubber the Right Way offered to make an exact duplicate based on my original, but said there would be a number of back and forth trial fittings. I opted to buy a piece 24” x 82” and cut my own.
I used a paint pen to trace the old onto the new, and I cut out the shape using super sharp shop shears I got from Harbor Freight. Then I used a cheap leather punch set from the same to pop the holes into the rubber, and a sharp blade to cut the slits between, where needed.
Then all I needed to do was attach the plastic air dam with staples (original only had 4), and it’s ready to install. I used a simple staple gun to drive a staple through the dam and the rubber. I backed it with cardboard pieces so the staples would come through straight, then bent the sharp ends over with pliers before hammering them flat. 1/2” staples would have done a better job, but these seem to only be there as a place holder, while the bolts that attach to the car will keep it permanently.
Ready to go when I get the engine compartment wrapped up.
Nice job! You should have cut two and sent the 2nd cut to RTRW and let them deal with that telling them that this fits and make them like that and they should be good with it. Then more people with Toros like yours could benefit and you still keep your old one and have your car back on the road, too.
Nice job! You should have cut two and sent the 2nd cut to RTRW and let them deal with that telling them that this fits and make them like that and they should be good with it. Then more people with Toros like yours could benefit and you still keep your old one and have your car back on the road, too.
I'm going to send the original to them so they can have the pattern, but the raw piece of rubber stock was $136 - I'm not generous enough to make two