foulpalamont

Hey everyone-I've just raised the front of my 394, drained all of the oil, removed the timing cover, and now I've got the oil pan loose and ready to drop, but this is in the way. Am I supposed to have to remove the suspension cross bar to get the oil pan out?? The manual says something about removing the idler arm support, but I don't see anything about removing a suspension cross bar.

oldcutlass

Your second picture is of the pitman arm. The idler arm is attached to the opposite frame, just remove the through bolts.

foulpalamont

ok thanks. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to spring loose and break my jaw. Would you recommend one of the fork pullers or the

foulpalamont

Arm pullers?

MDchanic

You don't need any pullers.

All it says is "Disconnect idler arm support from frame."

And torque those tie rod nuts back down and reinstall cotter pins, before you forget.

- Eric

oldcutlass

You should not havve to break any of the joints loose. Just take the 2 bolts out that mount the idler to the frame. Then the linkage will lower enough to allow clearance to remove the pan. To break the tapered joints loose, loosen the nut, I use a 3-5# shop hammer and whack the area that the tapered stem slips through. You need a good swing and loosen your grip a bit just as the hammer makes contact. Do not hammer on the nut or the tapered stem.

foulpalamont

O.K. Now I'm beginning to see the light. I've attached the same images below and marked where it looks like it's attaching to the frame. I'd remove these nuts at these locations? I'm sure it's pretty blazing obvious once I get under there, but I'm trying not to go out there on Christmas night. Thanks for all the help guys.

MDchanic

No. The idler arm is on the Right, the Pitman arm is attached to the steering box, on the Left,
so you do nothing to the item you marked on the Left, and you find the (usually two) bolts that hold the idler arm (on the Right) to the frame and remove them.

- Eric

joe_padavano

The CSM makes it sound much easier than it is. Unbolting the idler arm from the frame won't allow the center link to drop down. The pivots on the ends of the center link aren't ball joints, just pivots. The link will pivot on the pitman arm once the idler is loose from the frame, and you MAY be able to pivot the passenger end forward enough to clear the oil pan without disconnecting the tie rods, but you'll likely need to turn the RH tire to get enough slack in the linkage to do this. Personally, I'd just pop the inner tie rods off and make it easy.

foulpalamont

Awwwwright! Thanks for all the great info. I did in fact only have to remove the two bolts from the frame and lower the arm. Once I did this, with a little TLC, it finally slid out. How do you guys feel about replacing the oil pump while I'm at it? Is this a part that goes bad easily? it looks pretty clean all things considered.

oldcutlass

If you had good oil pressure I would leave it alone. I would look at the screen in the pickup and clean if required.

foulpalamont

O.K. That sounds good to me. There was a bit of sludge in it, but I cleaned it up. Again, I appreciate the info.

oldcutlass

I don't know if your engine had the plasti-coated timing gear like the later engines. If it did, the plastic pieces would collect in the metal shroud on the pickup screen. You need to ensure that area is clean.

foulpalamont

Thanks Eric. I realize this is months in the making, but with two little kids and a full time career, I am NOW getting back to this. While we were away, I've got all of the pans and gears, covers and harmonic balancers off and clean and ready for installation. I've just spent the better part of the day removing the old oil pan gasket from the block and the metal is nice and shiny. What would your recommendation be about sealer on the rubber seals at either end of the oil pan? Should i place sealer on the toothed side and the side that seals against the main bearing cap on those rubber "u" shaped seals? I've still got to put the timing cover back on (BTW, yes, mine had nylon toothed gears that were falling apart),. I should wait to put the sealer on this side until I'm ready for that installation (kinda thinking out loud, but I know that's the case). I'm only a little stupid. Any thoughts?

Charlie Jones

One thought , you're not stupid at all .
You seem to be doing all the right thing . And with others guidance , I'm sure you will do a fine job .
Remember , "the only stupid question , is the one you didn't ask . "

oldcutlass

X2 on not being stupid, we all also understand about family responsibilities. I like to glue the gasket to the pan so it does not slip out of position especially since your doing this with engine in frame. You have to be careful on the front and rear rubber seals to make sure they are in the proper place. Btw, there is such a thing as a stupid question, you have not asked any yet.

Don R.

X2 on glueing the gasket to the pan. I've also noticed on oil pan and trans pan gaskets I've used they make some of the bolt holes smaller to allow retention of a few bolts making it easier to start them when you are holding the pan in place.