Windshield replacement
#1
Windshield replacement
I have 65 Cutlass and I need to replace the windshield. Any helpful hints to do this? Which gasket or butle tape is required for installation.Also are the new windshields made today exactly like the originals and where can I purchase one. Thank you.
#2
You can probably get a windshield from any of the places that you would go to for a windshield for your late-model daily driver.
I checked the Safelite website just now, and they show in-stock windshields for a '65 Cutlass two-door. You don't say what body style your car is, so I just chose two-door coupe.
One thing I don't know is if a place like Safelite will sell you just the glass or will only sell it if you let them install it. On the other hand, dealing with windshields is a pain in the neck, and when I needed a new windshield for a '75 Delta 88 I owned back in the '90s, I just let the glass company do the whole job. They came out to my house and did the work right in my garage. Took them about half an hour, and it was well worth what they charged.
If you don't want to deal with Safelite, you might just pull out the phone book and call any of the places listed under Auto Glass. I'll bet that pretty much any of them would be able to help you.
I checked the Safelite website just now, and they show in-stock windshields for a '65 Cutlass two-door. You don't say what body style your car is, so I just chose two-door coupe.
One thing I don't know is if a place like Safelite will sell you just the glass or will only sell it if you let them install it. On the other hand, dealing with windshields is a pain in the neck, and when I needed a new windshield for a '75 Delta 88 I owned back in the '90s, I just let the glass company do the whole job. They came out to my house and did the work right in my garage. Took them about half an hour, and it was well worth what they charged.
If you don't want to deal with Safelite, you might just pull out the phone book and call any of the places listed under Auto Glass. I'll bet that pretty much any of them would be able to help you.
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Posts: 714
I found many major companies won't touch your window if you are doing just a window gasket replacement. If they are replacing a window they will 'cause there is no issue with trying not to damage window.
BFG: can I ask where you got the window gasket...
BFG: can I ask where you got the window gasket...
#4
From my observation new replacement windshields are not as thick as the OEM windshields the car originally had. As a result you will need to use a thicker window seal ribbon to compensate for the thinner glass.
Henry
Henry
#5
I had my windsheild pulled and reinstalled, & the guy who came out reinstalled using a structural urethane and it made quite a difference to the stability of the A pillars on the convertible, not sure if you have a vert? it may be difficult finding anyone to use the butyl tape anymore,good luck
#6
Most places install as part of glass cost
I would take pics of the window trim have the guy sign off on it or remove and install trim your self
The glass shop I been talking to said he would discount 40 bucks if I removed trim and installed my self do I did I even removed the glass but need paint before install so I can't tell you if I prefer the old tape verses the new urethane stuff
I would take pics of the window trim have the guy sign off on it or remove and install trim your self
The glass shop I been talking to said he would discount 40 bucks if I removed trim and installed my self do I did I even removed the glass but need paint before install so I can't tell you if I prefer the old tape verses the new urethane stuff
#7
To the OP's original question, I've replaced many A-body windshields. This is not difficult but does require car to get the windshield placed correctly. All A-bodies use butyl tape, not a gasket. The tape always came with every new windshield I've ever bought. You can also buy the tape separately if you are simply removing and replacing the existing windshield. Removal of the old windshield requires the old tape to be cut. I've done this with a length of music wire, but the correct cutting tool makes it easier. I've since gotten one of these and I highly recommend it:
The tool allows one person to cut the tape from the outside. The music wire typically requires two people, one inside and one outside. Push the music wire through the tape from inside to outside, center it, and wrap the ends around wooden dowels or similar comfortable handles, then work it all the way around the perimeter. Obviously you need to remove the outside stainless trim and wiper arms first (as well as the windshield antenna wire on cars so equipped), and of course wear thick gloves just in case.
You will now likely find pinchweld rust that needs to be repaired, unfortunately.
I've had good luck getting windshields from Auto City Classic. At Carlisle they get $99 for an A-body windshield, including the butyl tape.
One lesson learned is that the windshield must be properly located in the channel for the stainless trim to be installed properly. Take care in aligning this. You don't necessarily need to use the factory spacer blocks, but they do help if you have them. If not, mark the horizontal and vertical centerlines of the opening and the glass with tape and align the tape marks before pressing the glass against the butyl tape. Do NOT ask me how I know this...
The tool allows one person to cut the tape from the outside. The music wire typically requires two people, one inside and one outside. Push the music wire through the tape from inside to outside, center it, and wrap the ends around wooden dowels or similar comfortable handles, then work it all the way around the perimeter. Obviously you need to remove the outside stainless trim and wiper arms first (as well as the windshield antenna wire on cars so equipped), and of course wear thick gloves just in case.
You will now likely find pinchweld rust that needs to be repaired, unfortunately.
I've had good luck getting windshields from Auto City Classic. At Carlisle they get $99 for an A-body windshield, including the butyl tape.
One lesson learned is that the windshield must be properly located in the channel for the stainless trim to be installed properly. Take care in aligning this. You don't necessarily need to use the factory spacer blocks, but they do help if you have them. If not, mark the horizontal and vertical centerlines of the opening and the glass with tape and align the tape marks before pressing the glass against the butyl tape. Do NOT ask me how I know this...
#8
If you want to purchase your own glass, try PS Auto Glass. They offer glass for the classic cars and they will ship it to you. I know it sounds crazy to ship it and you'll be surprised when you see how little packing they use but they have a lot of success doing this. But look at the cost. I tend to think it would be cheaper to use a local company and have them do the installation. Glass installation companies today will not use butyl tape for legal reasons and will urethane them which makes for a stronger installation. If you do any paint work inside the glass channels, do not apply any urethane clear as the urethane glue materials will not stick to it. Use color only.
#9
[QUOTE=joe_padavano;636891]To the OP's original question, I've replaced many A-body windshields. This is not difficult but does require car to get the windshield placed correctly. All A-bodies use butyl tape, not a gasket. The tape always came with every new windshield I've ever bought. You can also buy the tape separately if you are simply removing and replacing the existing windshield. Removal of the old windshield requires the old tape to be cut. I've done this with a length of music wire, but the correct cutting tool makes it easier. I've since gotten one of these and I highly recommend it:
I've removed hundreds of glued in windows and I find the wire works best. A wire in much thinner and more flexible than the blade tool. The cutting tool is prone to cracking the edge or the windshield as it is a rather thick cutting blade, you tilt the blade just a little and pop goes the windshield. It does work very well for cutting out tempered glass.
Henry
I've removed hundreds of glued in windows and I find the wire works best. A wire in much thinner and more flexible than the blade tool. The cutting tool is prone to cracking the edge or the windshield as it is a rather thick cutting blade, you tilt the blade just a little and pop goes the windshield. It does work very well for cutting out tempered glass.
Henry
#10
I replaced mine with a PPG/PAG, it just looked better than some of the cheaper windshields. The installer marked the height of the old glass, and used the urethane caulk, I haven't trial fitted the stainless yet, I'm hoping there not a huge gap between the glass and SS.
#12
[QUOTE=66400;636897]
I used this tool on the rear glass worked great with the old style tape
On the front I used wire as it had the new urethane stuff in it and we snagged on a low spot center of glass with the wire and cracked the glass.
Removing windshield is a 50/50 even with experience
To the OP's original question, I've replaced many A-body windshields. This is not difficult but does require car to get the windshield placed correctly. All A-bodies use butyl tape, not a gasket. The tape always came with every new windshield I've ever bought. You can also buy the tape separately if you are simply removing and replacing the existing windshield. Removal of the old windshield requires the old tape to be cut. I've done this with a length of music wire, but the correct cutting tool makes it easier. I've since gotten one of these and I highly recommend it:
I've removed hundreds of glued in windows and I find the wire works best. A wire in much thinner and more flexible than the blade tool. The cutting tool is prone to cracking the edge or the windshield as it is a rather thick cutting blade, you tilt the blade just a little and pop goes the windshield. It does work very well for cutting out tempered glass.
Henry
I've removed hundreds of glued in windows and I find the wire works best. A wire in much thinner and more flexible than the blade tool. The cutting tool is prone to cracking the edge or the windshield as it is a rather thick cutting blade, you tilt the blade just a little and pop goes the windshield. It does work very well for cutting out tempered glass.
Henry
On the front I used wire as it had the new urethane stuff in it and we snagged on a low spot center of glass with the wire and cracked the glass.
Removing windshield is a 50/50 even with experience
#14
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