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Had the radiator out of my 1967 Toro recently for repair and noticed or 're' noticed my lower tranny line hookup into the radiator has a crimp/kink in it, not sure if I made it worse recently.
Certainly not closed off, but not desirable.
Is there any effective way to eliminate the kink or lessen it?
Is it not as bad as I think, tranny fluid will still flow as needed?
Any thoughts appreciated, thanks.
Just replace the line. The only way to fix it is to cut out the kink and replace that section of line with compression fittings. Then, you'd have 2 leaky fittings to deal with.
In my amateurish tube bending experience, you could try to compress the narrowed sides with a vise grip. Needs to be pretty tight, clamp it, tighten it a little more, clamp it. 2, maybe 3 rounds & you’ll have what you’re gonna get, it will leave minor teeth marks. Another way is to remove the line & do a little gentle blacksmithing. The thing is that will slightly open the bend radius unless you make sure it cant. At the point of removing it, might as well replace it.
All this said, it’s probably not that big a deal. Me? I would vise grip as it sits so that radius won’t be a an issue, be careful not to stress the radiator, get what you get & call it a day. Or, just replace it.
Get a proper tube bending tool for yourself and then re-do the cooling line. Practice your bending technique on some scrap tubing and then go to work. Here's a photo of the bending tool that I use. It does a fantastic job of making perfect bends.
All this said, it’s probably not that big a deal. Me? I would vise grip as it sits so that radius won’t be a an issue, be careful not to stress the radiator, get what you get & call it a day. Or, just replace it.
….
x2 on this approach. If you're not happy with the results or end up with a crack in the line, then pull it and replace it.
If these are OEM lines and you are concerned about that try this...
Pull the line completely out and use some Mapp heat with a bench vice or duckbill vice grips to ease the kink out. Then coax the line back in place with a neutral feel on both line nuts and go.
Use two pieces of flat steel as a cushion in the vice or vice grip.
The heat should not be to the red or orange temperature but just below that, just to where you start to see the metal change color. Gotta work quick,ly as the vice or vice grips will wick the heat away quickly. Scotch brite the line to renew the surface.
If you end up replacing the transmission cooler lines make sure you get aluminum or copper/nickel tubing instead of steel. It will bend & flare easier.
Get a proper tube bending tool for yourself and then re-do the cooling line. Practice your bending technique on some scrap tubing and then go to work. Here's a photo of the bending tool that I use. It does a fantastic job of making perfect bends.
In my amateurish tube bending experience, you could try to compress the narrowed sides with a vise grip. Needs to be pretty tight, clamp it, tighten it a little more, clamp it. 2, maybe 3 rounds & you’ll have what you’re gonna get, it will leave minor teeth marks. Another way is to remove the line & do a little gentle blacksmithing. The thing is that will slightly open the bend radius unless you make sure it cant. At the point of removing it, might as well replace it.
All this said, it’s probably not that big a deal. Me? I would vise grip as it sits so that radius won’t be a an issue, be careful not to stress the radiator, get what you get & call it a day. Or, just replace it.
….
Originally Posted by droldsmorland
If these are OEM lines and you are concerned about that try this...
Pull the line completely out and use some Mapp heat with a bench vice or duckbill vice grips to ease the kink out. Then coax the line back in place with a neutral feel on both line nuts and go.
Use two pieces of flat steel as a cushion in the vice or vice grip.
The heat should not be to the red or orange temperature but just below that, just to where you start to see the metal change color. Gotta work quick,ly as the vice or vice grips will wick the heat away quickly. Scotch brite the line to renew the surface.
Originally Posted by acavagnaro
x2 on this approach. If you're not happy with the results or end up with a crack in the line, then pull it and replace it.
Thanks All...
Yes, I'll try this route first. Some mapp gas and gentle persuasion on trying to relieve the kink.
If I screw it up, it seems Inline Tuble does have replacement lines available for around 60 bucks. And I'm sure they'll be a little wrestling with that as well.
Thanks All...
Yes, I'll try this route first. Some mapp gas and gentle persuasion on trying to relieve the kink.
If I screw it up, it seems Inline Tuble does have replacement lines available for around 60 bucks. And I'm sure they'll be a little wrestling with that as well.
Heck, replacing the stock lines, even with AC, are a breeze. I recently install long tube headers on my '69 442 with AC. Talk about a major PITA when it came to those 2 trans lines.
Heck, replacing the stock lines, even with AC, are a breeze. I recently install long tube headers on my '69 442 with AC. Talk about a major PITA when it came to those 2 trans lines.
Yep, you are right...
I ended up ordering a set from inline tube. Have a small leak at the tranny connection, probably need to undo and re-seat.
