I have been block sanding my car for paint prep. I installed both latch assemblies and strikers to position doors. Everything was fine a couple days ago. Today I shut one of the doors and now can't open it. The release seems to work when I use my thumb to press inside door handle hole but the latch won't release. All the panels are on the car and the only thing I can think to do is remove fender to remove door hinge bolts hoping it will release from latch?
Anybody have this problem before and if so what was the fix?
70 442 BTW

 

Obvious question, but I will ask anyway. You did make sure it is unlocked right? Removing the front hinge bolts will not get you very far if the latch is stuck. The striker has a large head on the end of it which will prevent you from pulling the door off of it unless you can unlatch it. I have had latch mechanisms stick already when gapping panels if I shut the door too hard. If unlocked, I would try to pull on it with a little more force. You could also put the outside door handle back in (I assume you can get in the car from the other side door) to give a little more leverage. If all else fails, most latches have a hole in the back side to get a socket (allen or torques) on the striker pin from inside the door. You may have enough room to simply loosen/ remove the striker, or you may have to go back to your original plan and remove the hinge bolts as well.

 

Also try lifting up on the rear of the door while actuating the linkage.

 

Paul, if the latch is original I think you can put a torx tool through from the inside of the door through the latch into the striker and loosen it. But I would try some other stuff first, I wouldn't mess with the hinge.

 

Thanks guys I'll look for a hole but didn't notice one today. I just walked away in frustration.

 

Sometimes, that's the best thing to do!

 

If you can reach inside the car, use the remote inside handle. I had this problem a few weeks ago and tried pressing the inside paddle with my thumb, but I did not press hard enough. After I thought about it for a couple of days decided to use the inside handle and it worked. For me, it turned out that the thumb pin on the outside handle was too short.

 

Try jacking up the car from various points, front, rear, opposite side etc. to see if the body flex would be just enough to cause it to release.

 

Ive read on here that before taking off the door panel, some have had luck w rapidly cycling the lock up n down while working the door handle up n down as well. I had it happen on my dads old 71. I just used the pass door until the it was sold ( it was a parts car at that point)

 

Ill try everything. Maybe not tonight but soon. Is the latch junk at this point? does anybody know or do I just have it adjusted wrong? I know I have others.
I think if worse comes to worse, I will take a hole saw to the inside and drill a big hole to expose the levers so I can release maybe?

 

Before the saw!!! Reach inside the door and pull/tug on every rod possible and then try opening, sometime just the slightest variation or movement will make the difference.

Good luck, persist and you will conquer!

 

No Paul, I don't think the latch is junk. There is something that happens inside of them sometimes, there's like a white block of plastic inside that breaks and can cause problems. What yellowstone said is true, you can push on the lever with your hand, but it's like a double latch and you really have to push hard to release it. Lots of good ideas here, and it's true that normally the hardest part is getting the door panel off.

 

Success!
I couldn't get this off my mind so I stepped into garage tonight to look for that hole Frank was talking about. I saw there is a hole which gives access to the torx head of the striker bolt. I was able to get a ratchet on it but the problem then became head was to big to fully back out of the hole. I had to take a die grinder to open the hole. I then tried to back it out but the big washer was binding on the threads. I then was able to get a small pair of needle nose vise grips on the washer and unscrew the bolt from it. WHAT A PIA! but the door is open and all I need now is to replace both latch assembly and striker bolt.
Thanks for all help and suggestions.

 

I'm glad you got it done Paul, but I was kind of suggesting that as a last resort. I know alot of people don't know about the hole, which can be used for ballpark adjusting, sometimes. Sorry about the latch. You do know a 70 latch is different than a 71-72 latch, right? There is one other thing, when you get to it. These cars being very old, the rod that goes from the inner door control is typically stretched or bent. Like if you move the inner handle it will move like an inch or 2 and then nothing happens. you can shorten that rod by studying it and bending/tweaking it. It will make an unbelievable difference in the action of the handle.

 

I will look at the function of the door once I am in final adjustment, thanks for the tip.
What exactly is the difference between latches for 70 vs 71-72? I can compare because I probably have both. Is it a major difference? I can't see it being that different but I am always learning new stuff.

 

I know what the difference is, but I don't know how you see it. A 70 latch you need to hold the door handle button after pushing the lock stem down when you close the door. A 71-72 you can push the stem down and just close the door. I think that's it.

 

Interesting, kind of giving me a flashback. I think I know what your saying.

 

Yep had that problem with a chevelle am working on. One of the "bushings" that hold the horizontal lock button rod (69-72) in position had disintegrated, and pieces had fallen into the latch mechanism.