I recently got a 442 vert. that was restored in 1993 bumper to bumper. it has only been driven 2k miles since then. the prob. is that after it is up to temp. it is flooded when you go to start. i have run carb in the tank cleaner twice it hasn't changed. Can it be adjusted by mixture and/or choke or does it need a rebuid or repair inside? I know there is somme olds guru that can help.

 

sounds like your secondary well plugs might be leaking.
you might want to consider a rebuild, but, you could fix it yourself.


bill

 

I think you're saying after driving the car, it's hard starting, like it's flooded? if this is the case, it could be the fuel. The ethanol laced fuels we're forced to buy don't have a very long shelf life, and can cause hard starting. If this is the case try some marine grade Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer. www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx

 

If your carburetor hasn't been serviced since 1993 then it is time for a rebuild anyways. A kit costs about $20 at the auto parts store. If you are handy with tools they aren't too difficult to rebuild.

 

I agree - the rubber parts deteriorate more quickly in our alky-gas crap.

And if you're good at jigsaw puzzles, also...

 

I'd say it's more than likely caused by the re-formulated gasoline now as mentioned above as I have the same exact problem. If I don't start the car for a few days, the gas completely evaporates from the bowl. If I start it every day or so it's fine. After the car is at temp if I shut it off and restart it within 0-10 minutes it starts fine. However if it 'hot soaks' for 15 minutes or more it will not start unless I hold it to the floor due to flooding and when it starts there is black smoke from the exhaust. If it cools down for an hour or more, it starts perfectly, one crank. I was told the reformulated gasoline is VERY succeptible to 'boil off' when hot soaking resulting in increased pressure in the carb allowing for a slight throttle opening and flooding. IMO If my plug wells were leaking it would not start normally after cooling for an hour or more. I've done a lot of searching as this problem was frustrating me too. I have not tried any additives and gasoline grades/brands do not seem to have an affect. Unfortunately, I think it's something we have to live with. I guess I will give the Sta-bil a try.

 

I've been thinking about this for a while. After a drive, the heat soak causes the fuel to expand / boil / overflow from the main bleed vent tubes. I even lowered the float level and still had the problem. Last summer, I did not use a needle clip when I rebuilt the carb and didn't really have much of a problem. Then I changed to a bigger needle and seat. This time I put the clip on and have had one heck of a time starting the car. I think that as soon as the float drops from overflow / evaporation, the needle opens up and lets out half of the gas from the bowl. Two weeks ago, I opened up the carb and removed the needle clip again. Now it will usually fire with a few pumps of the pedal after it has been sitting all week.

 

I'm not convinced that ethanol blended gasoline causes problems with older cars. I've never experienced any of the common problems folks mention. Not meaning to be smart, I'm just saying...

 

I would look at two things .... one it could be the secondary well plugs leaking if its flooded when hot and needs to pumped when its cold ....... second it could be nozzle drip if its flooded (need to hold the pedel to the floor to start) when hot but starts fine when cold. It needs a rebuild either way, you cannot get a good rebuild kit for $20.00 (not today anyway maybe back in the day) more like $80.00, you also need to get a good overhaul book on Q-jets. Try Cliffs Highperformace.com for alot of good information and also a great book to rebuild your Q-jet. The Q-jet is a great carb when running right, but you have to understand how to make it run "RIGHT."

 

I'd hate to shop where you shop. Most parts stores and parts houses on-line carry Q-jet rebuild kits for anywhere from $15-$30.

 

Back to basics first. Next time the car is hot and before you try to start it, remove the air cleaner lid and look at the choke plate. If it's not completely vertical, your choke is either misadjusted or needs a new coil. Start by diagnosing things that don't cost anything before throwing parts at the car.

 

well save your $15-$30 Olds64 because those kits are junk and you might as well not even spend the time to rebuild the carb if your going to use junk parts. If you want the carb to run right you need to use the right parts. Trust me I'm not trying to be smart but you need to do your homework on Q-Jets. Using the wrong - cheap parts is why so many people can't get the Q-jet to perform as it should. In my opinion the Q-jets are one of the best performance carbs made ----- but they have to be set up right.

 

All of your responces are valued. My 455sx doesn't have this prob. except for evaporation when you don't start for a week or 2, but does not have flooding issue. The 442 has no prob. starting after sitting for 2 weeks, but when hot it takes forever to start, push pedal to floor it will start then it dies no matter what you do with the petal then start 2nd time pedal to floor and 10 sec. later it starts. when riding down road it sometime it sounds like its burping thru exhaust(quiety).

 

you might wish to try a second gasket between the carb and intake. there was one used by buick that had a metal plate sandwiched in the middle.
carb. to intake bolt torque is 12-15 ft/lbs.


bill

 

These kits you talk about are not very high quality. They are just a couple gaskets, check ball, choke seal, needle/seat. The needle in the kit I bought failed in a week. An $80 kit from a reputable source includes all the "extra" stuff you will end up buying anyway... Springs, filter, cam, float, fasteners, and more.

 

I have found some one that specializes in quadra jets and he is to finish up my carb today. He reported to me that the floats were a composite type material and they soaked up some fuel and made them heavy. The carb did have a little trash in it. Just wanted to share some info on the floats in the carb.

 

I can only speak for Canadian gas companies but our government mandates 10% ethanol average across the entire fuel blend line. None of our fuel companies put ethanol in their Premium fuels which is what most classic car guys run