I have been feeling a vibration in my 06 Ram for a few weeks, it’s getting progressively worse. I crawled under the truck for an inspection, imagine my surprise to find all 3 u joints trashed.

This will be the 3rd set of u joints I have put in this truck. I have used Napa, Duralast, and TRW brands, none of them has lasted as long as the originals, which in my opinion didn’t last as long as I would have expected.

Even after U joint replacement, the vibration is still there, just much less noticeable. I’m taking the driveshaft to a driveshaft specialist shop Monday so they can check the balance and replace the joints with “good” (their words) parts. Which brings me to my question.

I used joints that have grease zerks, they say that’s a no no. Normally I’d say nonsense, but considering none of the grease able joints have lasted nearly as long as the original non-serviceable type, maybe they are onto something? While I understand that joints that are grease able are technically weaker (a hole drilled thru isn’t as strong as a solid chunk of steel) I’m not breaking them. Why would something that can be greased wear out faster? I do religiously grease the joints at every oil change.

While I do tow and work this truck, I don’t abuse it. It does have some power upgrades, but nothing crazy.

Other than suspension work and routine maintenance, for the most part it’s been a very good truck with fairly minor issues.

 

You have no data from OEMs with zerks, therefore you can't tell if it's brand or zerk presence. Considering some offroad packages come factory with zerks, I would say they are fine. Can you get Dodge U joints?

If you're killing U joints, I would think either suspension geometry, typical road environment, or driving habits is smoking them. They may be chronically undersized to load and power. My opinion, get that shaft redone with Mopar U joints, and have another made up. Swap the next time it dies, and have it rebuilt, etc, etc.

Or trade for a Toyota. 304k on original U joints on the 4 banger of fury here.

 

I've never had trouble with zerk fitting u-joints. If the shop is putting MOPAR brand u-joints in your truck hopefully they last.

Could it be a transmission mount that's failed?

 

I assume its leaf springs in the rear. Could the axle have rotated in the u-bolts? I know there's supposed to be a locating dowel or something, but since this keeps happening I'm trying to think outside the box.
Does the shaft have a slip joint? I thought the splines are keyed so it only goes together in one orientation, but again just trying to think of what would cause it to keep happening.

 

A mount could be worn as stated, a center support worn if equipped, pinion angle off due to the diff housing out of alignment as mentioned, the shaft slightly bent and/or out-of-balance. Unfortunately there could be numerous causes but you are on the best path by having the driveshaft redone. Hopefully it is buttery smooth after that but if not you'll have to dig in.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Typically, accelerated failure is due to contamination (water/dirt ingress), lack of lube, and excessive driveline angle (bind).
See attachment.
Excessive angles will induce resonance (vibration).

Make sure the axle is not moving on the shackles and the spring perches are tight.

Check the pinion and output shaft bearings for excessive clearance.
No play is preferred at the pinion. Some play is allowable at a slip joint at the trans or at the splined shaft coupling.

The splined coupling (if equipped) likely needs grease. If it's dry, this is typically felt as a thud from a stop then (re) acceleration. The splines bind during driveline retraction/extension cycles. As you take off you will feel a thud.
This can manifest as a vibration. The shaft shop can tell if it's OK.

If I think a shaft is questionable, I will remove all the shafts with the carrier attached then drop all of it on the counter at the shaft shop and say giver the 1-2.

Sealed joints vs. greaseable joints are now preferred. For example, Spice ball Joints have the sealed blue boot no zerk. In theory, no dirt in, no grease out = longevity.

Spicer solid joints are the only U-Joints I use.

 

Nope, no imports in my driveway!!!

I recently swapped a 700 transmission into my 81 GMC truck. It still had the factory u joints, and they actually didn’t feel too bad. I replaced them, I really hope I didn’t screw myself by removing old but useable parts, for new but junk replacements! I have no clue what the exact mileage is, but it was my grandfather’s truck, I have maintenance records from 1985 when he bought it. Closest I can guestimate, it’s well over 300k. Granted, the first 150-200k or so was with the rompin, stompin powerehouse 350 Olds Diesel engine. How much stress can 110 hp put on a driveline??

The driveshaft shop is adamant about using original equipment parts. So it will be going back together with AAM parts.



If I remember correctly, the original sealed joints lasted over 100k. When I took it apart, all the needles were dry and crusty. I figured “ hey, if I replace the non-serviceable type with something that can be greased, it should last much longer!” Ha! Not even close.

As far as suspension, it’s basically stock. No lift, replacement shocks, I do have aftermarket air bags to level the truck when it’s loaded. so the driveshaft and suspension angles should be as factory designed. There is a slip joint, it’s free to move. Nothing is bent or worn, the truck drives straight. I had it aligned last year, I assume if something was screwed up an alignment would show it.

As for driving habits, I don’t abuse the truck. I’m not a speed demon with it, I’m as easy as I can be and still get the job done.

Maybe the shop will find an issue. Hopefully, I won’t be boring anyone with a follow up in a year or so.

 

I don't want to be a douche, but Tundras have more domestic parts content than Rams and are designed in Michigan and built in Texas. Different market, however, a Ram probably suits your needs better.

 

I know, a fact my import loving son in law never fails to remind me.

I’m a 3rd generation autoworker, I guess I’m stubborn like that. I’m also a huge believer in not biting the hand that feeds me.

I started working for Chrysler corp in 1998. At the time, there were still plenty of old timers who had stickers on their toolboxes and lunch boxes that said “Toyota: the same nice people who gave you Pearl Harbor “. Then Bob Eaton screwed us with the “merger of equals” nonsense. Then Cerberus, Fiat, and now Stellantis.

I should be use to it, I’m a fanatic of an orphan car brand. I suppose it’s only natural to work for the unwanted stepchild of the auto industry.

 

Matt, I have to confess that I believe pretty much the same as you and the "old Timers" do. "Chrysler" has a proud heritage and accomplishments.

 

Hi,

My 07 Ram went through the same thing. A buddy has a 04 that he took both driveshafts to a driveshaft shop and had them re-balanced. The shop said Dodge/Ram had issues with the driveshafts from new and back then did a bunch under warranty.

Either way got both re-balanced and rebuilt and no vibration and no replacing u-joints every other year.

Regards,
Jim

 

After sweating my *** off in my driveway for a couple days, I’m pleased to report I have rebuilt/balanced front and rear driveshafts, new sealed u-joints in the front axle (some people call them wheel joints, the ones that pivot at the spindle) new shocks, sway bar links, water pump, belt, etc. I spent all day driving around, I want to make sure nuts stay on bolts before leaving for vacation. The vibration is gone, and is the driveline “shudder” as you leave a stop sign.

The driveshaft shop swears these factory style sealed joints will last as long as the factory ones did. I guess I’ll know in a few years!!

 

I've very brightly paint marked drive shaft nuts before for easy inspection under the side for loosening. Glad it works.

 

I Holley has Lakewood Chromoly for a $110 apiece. Is there another (cheaper) for a high tork (425 HP Big Block) option? $200 for u-joints is a spanking but if Lakewood Chromoly is the way to go - its the way to go. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!