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Cost for timing gear replacement

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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #41  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
Wow, Eric. That sounds like alot of work for a couple drips per day...
I'll say.

Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
Maybe i could just re-torque the pan to factory spec? What's the best way? Criss cross from the inside out or outside in?
Oh. Thought you'd have done that already.
It really doesn't matter how you do it - just tighten them close to spec, or you will bend the pan and it will leak more.
Since the cork gaskets tend to be like concrete after this many years, I would recommend going slightly tighter than spec, because those gaskets are not going to compress very much at all.

Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
When i changed my starter last year, i noticed my oil pan bolts were almost finger tight....
... which would be too loose.

- Eric
Old May 9, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #42  
Allan R's Avatar
Just an Olds Guy
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
.. How tight is the crank bolt usually?
Can you say 'tighter than a Scotsman's grip on his wallet?". That tight. You will curse and wonder who the heck put it on last. Kind of like the gas tank bolts??? only 10 times harder! How's that for words of encouragement?

1 1/8" sounds right IIRC. To get the one off my 455 I needed not only the breaker bar, but a steel pipe about 3' long for extra leverage. Once it breaks free, no problem. Use the leverage of an extra pipe to your advantage and it will be MUCH easier.
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