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Correct part and part number for radiator fan

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Old August 30th, 2020, 05:04 PM
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Correct part and part number for radiator fan

Hi guys was wondering if someone could clear up some information about my radiator fan for me. My fan has a part number of 467895 on it. My research says that fan is from a g body 305 heavy-duty. My motor is a 75 olds 350 mild cam hayden 2747 fan clutch with that fan. I think i have the wrong fan on my car. I converted it back to fan shroud and fan clutch a few years ago so the person that helped me change it back sourced the fan from a friend of his.

Fan that is currently on my motor.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 06:14 AM
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Tell us what the car and radiator and water pump are. The year of the block is irrelevant.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:17 AM
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Hi Joe. Thanks for replying. My car is a 1977 cutlass supreme brougham. Three core aluminum radiator. Water pump is a heavy-duty carquest that measures 5.95 from the front of the timing chain cover. Pretty sure part number is t3086.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:27 AM
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The original fan for your car was P/N 413977, six blade, 19.5" diameter. Used on a lot of Oldsmobile engine clutch fan applications from 1971-1978.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:39 AM
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I'm going research that part number. Do you know if there a dorman or derale fan that will cross reference to that part number. I'm asking because my car has been climbing up in temperature while idling with the ac on. Not really running hot. But close. I know from your other answers to posts that 250 is boiling point with 50/50 mix. I saw 215-220 Friday in Florida heat. Motor is a year into a rebuild.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:41 AM
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220 on a hot day in traffic is nothing to get excited about.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:51 AM
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So you think the fan I have needs to be changed to the part number you gave me if I can find one or leave it the way it is? 220 makes me nervous since I just spent 3k on a rebuild 😃😃. But you know way more about this then me so what advice would you give me to bring that temperature down.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Montrese2006
But you know way more about this then me so what advice would you give me to bring that temperature down.
Put some duct tape over the temperature gauge. As Dr. P just said, the temperature does not NEED to be brought down. You're trying to fix something that isn't broken.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Montrese2006
So you think the fan I have needs to be changed to the part number you gave me if I can find one or leave it the way it is? 220 makes me nervous since I just spent 3k on a rebuild 😃😃. But you know way more about this then me so what advice would you give me to bring that temperature down.
How does your current fan compare to the specs I posted for the OEM fan? Is the clutch working properly? How do you have the vacuum advance configured - ported or manifold vacuum?
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Old August 31st, 2020, 07:57 AM
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Just to clarify, if the temp climbs to 220 and stabilizes there, you don't have a problem. If it keeps inching up, however, then you should be worried about it.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:10 AM
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The small line is my vacuum advance. The fan i have now is 19 so just slightly smaller than the one you gave me the part number to. When i drive the car i can hear the roar that everyone says you supposed to hear from the fan but i'll double check it with the air on and off when it's sitting at idle. What's the best way to check it? Thanks for the help guys
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Montrese2006
The small line is my vacuum advance.
That doesn't tell us if it's ported or manifold vacuum. Does it go straight from there to the distributor? How is the carb jetted? How do the plugs look - lean or normal?
FYI, when asking about problems like this, we don't know if the engine is modified or not and must assume it's stock unless told otherwise, as there are an infinite number of aftermarket combinations. Providing all the details up front will help get to a better answer sooner.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:31 AM
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My bad Joe. Should have said it's going from the distributor vacuum can to the carb. The motor has slight modifications. Edelbrock cam 3712. Edelbrock intake 3711. .030 over bore Flat top 30 over pistons. I haven't changed any jets in the carb since I bought it. The carb is a summit 600 electric choke. Spark plugs were clean last time I checked. Hopefully that covered everything.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Montrese2006
My bad Joe. Should have said it's going from the distributor vacuum can to the carb. The motor has slight modifications. Edelbrock cam 3712. Edelbrock intake 3711. .030 over bore Flat top 30 over pistons. I haven't changed any jets in the carb since I bought it. The carb is a summit 600 electric choke. Spark plugs were clean last time I checked. Hopefully that covered everything.
And again, we don't know if that port on that carb is ported or manifold vacuum.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:53 AM
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timed spark vacuum port. still learning all these technical terms.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:58 AM
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The factory typically used a thermal vacuum switch that changed the distributor vacuum source from ported to manifold vacuum if the engine got too hot. You're aftermarket installation has apparently deleted that. Might want to consider reinstalling one. Also consider getting the correct fan.
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Old August 31st, 2020, 08:58 AM
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there is another full manifold vacuum port that is capped off
next to the choke. bigger line is going into the pcv valve in the valve cover if you are looking at the picture i posted
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Old August 31st, 2020, 09:06 AM
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Ok I will look into both of those things asap. I'm going to post in the wanted for sale section for the fan. Thanks for all your help. This is harder to do over the internet. You should come to Florida
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