Code 23?
February 23rd, 2022, 05:36 PM
#1
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Code 23?
I got a 1989 Cadillac brougham with a 307 olds and I've been recently getting a code 23 on my OBD1 scanner, and the mixture control solenoid is functioning but I notice that the temperature of the coolant is below 195 could that be related or is it something in totally different? This car has 136,000 MI and when the check engine light flickers on and off the car will act like it wants to stall and sometimes it stall and sometimes it doesn't, what am I missing, thanks again.
February 24th, 2022, 11:05 PM
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Location: central Indiana
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How hot does the engine get? While I doubt your problem is engine temp related, if the engine does run too cool it will affect emissions and efficiency.
Check the resistance of the mixture control solenoid both cold and hot. If it’s close to the 10 ohm limit that might cause a code 23. Inspect the wiring, look for frayed or damage insulation.
Check the resistance of the mixture control solenoid both cold and hot. If it’s close to the 10 ohm limit that might cause a code 23. Inspect the wiring, look for frayed or damage insulation.
February 24th, 2022, 11:08 PM
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How hot does the engine get? While I doubt your problem is engine temp related, if the engine does run too cool it will affect emissions and efficiency.
Check the resistance of the mixture control solenoid both cold and hot. If it’s close to the 10 ohm limit that might cause a code 23. Inspect the wiring, look for frayed or damage insulation.
Check the resistance of the mixture control solenoid both cold and hot. If it’s close to the 10 ohm limit that might cause a code 23. Inspect the wiring, look for frayed or damage insulation.
February 25th, 2022, 05:43 AM
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Olds engines- the M/C solenoid clicks ONCE when the key is turned to on position. So listen for it. Chevy 305s, etc., tend to continuously click a lot with the ignition on, so no mistaking it's cycling.
If the CEL light is flickering on and off, it may be intermittent. They usually come on, and stay on. Seems like a loose or broken wire somewhere. Worse is if it's a broken wire but still inside the outer sheath. Harder to find those.
152 degree coolant? How do you know it's exactly 152? Check the top hose and see if it stays cold and then gets hot as the engine comes up to temp. If it's still reading 152, then you may have a stuck open t-stat, especially if you feel a lot of flow instantly with the engine first starts. But it still should get above 152 eventually unless it's freezing outside. If it's really hot, but flowing, I'm betting a bad temp sensor. The 307 has 2 temperature sensors on the intake. One for the gages/idiot light (driver side of T-stat housing) and one for the ECM (front corner of driver side intake outboard the gage sensor). Even if your gage sensor is mucked up, the ECM gets its temperature signal input from the other sensor. Your gage/light has no bearing on the ECM temperature input. Not saying the ECM sensor may not be faulty, but they're pretty durable.
Check your choke pull-off when you start the car. The choke is usually closed tight with the first pump of the pedal. As soon as the engine starts, the front choke pull-off vacuum pod opens the choke approx. 1/8" or so just enough to give it a little air, while still on the fast idle choke setting. Many times when this pod dies, the choke remains closed, causing an over rich startup. As long as you have the engine running, you should have your pull-off drawn in all the time. You can check it with the engine off with a hand-held vacuum pump to see if the diaphragm is busted or not.
Did you check your ECM/IGN fuse in the fuse block? ECM itself is USUALLY not the problem. They're pretty durable. Not infallible, but normally, ECM's don't fail outright.
Not enough info yet to determine other places to look. Do the chart test recommendations first.
If the CEL light is flickering on and off, it may be intermittent. They usually come on, and stay on. Seems like a loose or broken wire somewhere. Worse is if it's a broken wire but still inside the outer sheath. Harder to find those.
152 degree coolant? How do you know it's exactly 152? Check the top hose and see if it stays cold and then gets hot as the engine comes up to temp. If it's still reading 152, then you may have a stuck open t-stat, especially if you feel a lot of flow instantly with the engine first starts. But it still should get above 152 eventually unless it's freezing outside. If it's really hot, but flowing, I'm betting a bad temp sensor. The 307 has 2 temperature sensors on the intake. One for the gages/idiot light (driver side of T-stat housing) and one for the ECM (front corner of driver side intake outboard the gage sensor). Even if your gage sensor is mucked up, the ECM gets its temperature signal input from the other sensor. Your gage/light has no bearing on the ECM temperature input. Not saying the ECM sensor may not be faulty, but they're pretty durable.
Check your choke pull-off when you start the car. The choke is usually closed tight with the first pump of the pedal. As soon as the engine starts, the front choke pull-off vacuum pod opens the choke approx. 1/8" or so just enough to give it a little air, while still on the fast idle choke setting. Many times when this pod dies, the choke remains closed, causing an over rich startup. As long as you have the engine running, you should have your pull-off drawn in all the time. You can check it with the engine off with a hand-held vacuum pump to see if the diaphragm is busted or not.
Did you check your ECM/IGN fuse in the fuse block? ECM itself is USUALLY not the problem. They're pretty durable. Not infallible, but normally, ECM's don't fail outright.
Not enough info yet to determine other places to look. Do the chart test recommendations first.
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April 20th, 2010 01:46 PM
