MDchanic

Okay, we've all heard about the fact that modern fuel is bad for older rubber carb components, and we all know that certain carb. specialists, such as Cliff Ruggles, sell more expensive parts and rebuild kits that are of top quality.

My question is, does anybody here have any direct experience in comparing modern (not ten years ago), good, auto-parts-store parts with the "fancy" ones?

Reason I ask is that I figure I'll be doing a QuadraJet rebuild soon, and I'll be needing some parts.
I always look around to see what's available, and I noticed that I can buy a kit from NAPA (they're generally good quality) with a brass float (no fuel absorption problems) for $39, while a Standard kit from Cliff is $46 and a fancy kit is $80 (both not including shipping, which is usually about another $10)


Cliff's Standard-Level kit description says, "All new gaskets, complete accelerator pump assembly w/springs, Viton needle/seat assembly, float, fuel filter/spring, & small parts"
He says all of his kits use "only the best parts."

His fancy kit description (once I've carved away the BS and the descriptions of extra parts I won't need, since I'm doing a stock rebuild) says, "We include the later model pump with garter spring and Flourostomer seal. This keeps the seal in constant contact with the pump bore, and the seal will not swell or shrink in contact with modern fuels"

So, does that mean that Cliff's cheaper kit does not have a Flourostomer skirt?

What about his gaskets? Are they any different from the "regular" ones (they're a different color in the picture)?

He says his needles have a viton seal - fine. NAPA, which has notoriously inconsistent product descriptions on its website (like the descriptions of nearly identical parts were written by different people on different days who never met each other) lists some float needles as having viton seals, and doesn't mention the seals on others.
Similarly, NAPA mentions that some of its accel. pump plungers have alcohol resistant skirts, but doesn't say anything on others.
Normally, when a business's information "leaves out" a detail, I assume that detail isn't included, as I assume is the case on Cliff's site, which was clearly all written as a unit. I know from having looked at a lot of NAPA listings over the years, though, that sometimes they just don't mention things.

There is no way that I would ever spend eighty bucks for a quick carb. rebuild, and I always prefer to buy things from a local store when I can (in addition to saving shipping, I can bring it back if there's a problem, plus it's good to have the guys at the local parts store recognize your face).

So, after all of that, does anyone have any experience with this?
I know I can get some info from Cliff or others with similar businesses, but the amount of vague ad-speak on his site leads me to think that even though he wouldn't lie in response to a direct question, he wouldn't necessarily tell me the truth about what NAPA sells, either, if it's the equivalent of his own stuff (by the way, I really liked his book ).

Thanks,

- Eric

joe_padavano

Eric,

I use NAPA and even chain auto parts store rebuild kits with no problems whatsoever. I do replace the plastic Qjet floats with brass, but otherwise do nothing special as far as selecting rebuild kits. No issues with the Coors Light that passes for gasoline today.

MDchanic

Yeah, that's what I've done in the past - just wanted to see whether there was any "new" knowledge out there.

Thanks, Joe.

- Eric

jaunty75

In summer 2009 I rebuilt the carb on my '67 Delta 88 2-bbl with a kit I bought for $20 at Autozone. No problems since.

MDchanic

Yeah, that's been my experience as well, but I haven't rebuilt a carb in over ten years, during which time the makeup of gasoline has changed quite a bit, and I hear a lot of poorly-substantiated "common wisdom" rhetoric on the subject, so I figured I should ask, just to be sure.

Thanks.

- Eric

BILL DEMMER

1. you don't need a skirt spring for your accelerator pump if your's didn't already have it. i've found the flouro-bs seals tend to roll over, i quit using them. the standard seals work just fine.

2. i don't think anybody offers a non alcohol resistant seal for qj's.

3. if the needle valve has a rubber tip-it's viton.

4. the drawback with brass floats are that when they fail-they "titanic".

5. unless cliff is having his kits/parts custom made, they're coming from the one remaining manufacturer, walker fuel systems.


bill

joesw31

Eric, I used my old ac delco kits, but the pump didn't hold out due to the ethanol. I then tried walker kits from oreilly with no issues. However,the seats appear to be low flow units.

MDchanic

I hadn't known that.

I had imagined as much. There are only so many commonly available materials to make these things, and the materials available to industry change over time.

I had suspected both of these things, but it's good to hear someone else say it.

True. I have experienced and repaired leaky brass floats.
Honestly, I'd rather have a float "tank" than one that s-l-o-w-l-y sucks up fuel, because the former will create fairly diagnosable symptoms, while the later will create months of frustration.

Thanks, Bill and Joe('s).

- Eric