adpostel

We are working on my brothers 68 Cutlass. I have decoded everything and it is an original 1968 V-8 350 Cutlass S. The motor is a 395558 block with #5 heads. We took the motor out to clean up the chassis and paint it, and to clean the motor and trans up. When going to reinstall the motor, we noticed one of the motor mounts was broken (Plastic/Rubber) was separated. So no problem, go to get two new motor mounts, and a new trans mount. Napa sells us their mounts, which are Anchor Part# 2261 which is the same part that Autozone sells, and is the same part# that cross-references with the part# on the old mount. Well we get to putting this motor back in, and we get one side in with the bolt, and then let the motor down a little more to get the other side on, and were about 3/4" off from the holes lineing up? we shook and moved the trans, jacked the trans up and down, moved the hoist over, up and down and it wasn't gonna budge. So I figure somehow we got the wrong parts. So we took them back off, take them to NAPA and we looked at pictures, the Anchor catalog, and everything shows these to be the right part number. I get my Year One catalog out the truck, and pretty much their were only two part numbers of motor mounts, one for small blocks, and one for big blocks.

I read on another website about measurements for small block frame pads, and big block frame pads, so we pick the motor back up and measure the frame pads, and sure nuff, they are the small block frame pads......

We were finally able to get the block mounted, but not before we had to put some washers behind one of the mounts to move it out about 1/2" and then rock the motor like crazy, we were finally able to finagle the bolt through. This took us quite a while to do, I couldn't believe that it was so difficult to bolt two motor mounts onto the block and slide it into position. And this was with the whole front clip off the car. I just can't see how it was so difficult. I must be missing something here. I am seeking advice of the experienced Oldsmobile crew here.......I have never had this much difficulty stabbing a motor in a car. Please help me if I am missing something.

Thanks

Adolph

compedgemarine

the parts books are wrong. Joe may be able to chime in here as he knows what part number is the right one. I have the list but it is at work now. the problem is that they were in a change over from the old style to the new ones with the inter lock feature.

joe_padavano

Actually, 2261 SHOULD be the correct replacement for that application. Unfortunately, these mounts are Chinesium and I've personally had quality control problems with them. In one case, the holes for the bolts that go to the block were drilled in the wrong place and the second bolt wouldn't go in.

One trick is to leave the motor mount to block bolts loose until you get the cross bolts in place, then tighten everything up.

compedgemarine

Joe, the list I have of part numbers is something I think you put together on another site. I have had to use it before on cars as they kept insisting that I was giving them the wrong info. do you have any ideas of which brand fits the best?

svnt442

Who else make motor mounts for these any more. I have only seen the Anchor part numbers listed.

adpostel

And I wonder who makes Year One's part number NG109?

Atdog

Joe, Could you please post a link to your motor mount thread? I couldn't find it.
I'm having issues too, and I'd like to read up on it.
Thanks

joesw31

It sounds like the mount may be defective due to poor quality

Blk71SX

there is always a chance the mounts are mislabled or someone at some point was comparing two different part numbers and got them switched. it's happened before

Danny Wiseley

Those mounts were always tough to get in the hole, even when putting the same engine and mounts back in, and yes, even with factory parts all around.
I had a long tire spoon that was very valuable for that purpose. Just put a slight amount of weight on the bolt, make sure not to hit the threads on the end, and knock that sucker in. On the rare occasion, I would loosen the bots holding the mount to the block for a little more flexibility.
Sounds crude, but working on a flat rate, you learn that quick makes money. . .
DW

derek nesdoly

X2 on this suggestion and the April 26 post from Joe P. I just did mine yesterday and it was really a two man job with a lot of pry-twist-wiggle and curse. Kept everything loose on one side and used a long punch to keep the front hole lined up while pounding in the bolt from the rear.Derek