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Brake Booster Replacement

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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #1  
foxlovescars's Avatar
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From: Utah
Brake Booster Replacement

Hi Guys:
Replacing the after-market brake booster today with a Delco-Moraine (original type) on my 1970 base 442. Are there any pointers or best practices you can give me on the installation?


I plan not to disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder if possible.


Thanks,
Frank O'Donnell
Troy, VA
Old Jun 29, 2014 | 09:32 AM
  #2  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
If you can remove the hood, it gives better access to the 4 bolts that hold the booster. If not you'll find the one on the bottom left is a real PITA to loosen. Doesn't help if you have 'fat fingers' either. No problem with unbolting the MC and leaving it hooked to the brake lines. Also make sure the clevis goes back in the right hole on the brake pedal. Be patient with this job as it can be time consuming and frustrating.
Old Jun 29, 2014 | 11:38 AM
  #3  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
Removing the wiper motor and left inner fender well helped me. And use some LONG wrenches (or double up on standard ones) for extra leverage. When I did this, the hood stayed on, but it could have helped some if is was off.
Old Jun 29, 2014 | 11:54 AM
  #4  
Allan R's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
The hood and liners were in when I did mine too, which is why I suggested removing the hood if possible. Inner liner removal might be overkill for this though. If you have the car up on jackstands and can get underneath, the one bottom nut on the BB is easier to get at. X2 on the long wrenches, or at least have 2 that you can lock together to secure a purchase on that errant nut.
Old Jun 29, 2014 | 02:50 PM
  #5  
Fun71's Avatar
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Posts: 15,411
From: Phoenix, AZ
Wow, I replaced mine last Christmas without removing the hood or fender liners. I used a combination wrench (open on one end, box on the other) and fairly easily removed the nuts from the studs. Some of them I could turn only a fraction at a time but it wasn't difficult, just slow. It would have been easier with a ratcheting box wrench for sure but I didn't have one and just used the tools I had.
Old Jun 29, 2014 | 09:54 PM
  #6  
foxlovescars's Avatar
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From: Utah
Thanks Guys:
"..a little bit of Monica, a little bit of Jessica..." I took some of everyone's suggestions. Even using my lift, there was NO way I could work through all the parts to reach any of the four nuts.


I wound up removing the battery, wheel and inner fender cover to reach the nuts on the brake booster. Lady and Allen were right about doubling up on the wrenches to increase torque enough to get the nuts off in such a tight space. Too many horror stories about refitting to risk removing the hood. I am so glad that I removed the inner fender because now I can easily repaint that side of the block, replace the power steering hoses and do a general cleaning of things I couldn't get to before. I may take the right fender cover off to clean that side of the engine compartment.


Still looking to hear from other forum members for more hints and tips to complete the job.
Old Jun 30, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #7  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Here is a tip -
Take of your MAW helmet and let them run free!
SO MUCH can be done so easily with those inner fender wells removed.
Start here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post292889
Old Jul 7, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #8  
foxlovescars's Avatar
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From: Utah
I will tell everyone one thing.... If you have power disc brakes, and have disconnected the vacuum line to the brake booster, DON'T start the car to move it forward two feet to get the lift arms underneath it. I did just that and the car stopped 4 inches away from the front wall of my garage. Longest three seconds of my life!
Frank
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