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1972 Convertible Switch Relocation Options

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Old Oct 14, 2025 | 12:46 PM
  #1  
Rokjhn's Avatar
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1972 Convertible Switch Relocation Options

Have a bad convertible top switch in my 1972 Olds Convertible that was a royal pain to get out of the dash. Cussed it a lot while busting up my knuckles and becoming a contortionist while getting to it, however, was grateful for the experience and rewarded with a functioning top once I had the old switch out and plugged in the new one. That said, I now have the switch hanging below the dash and am really not very enthusiastic about reinstalling it behind the dash so looking for some options Has anybody relocated the switch to a more suitable (accessible) permanent location successfully? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. The cruise control switch is already missing, so maybe an external box on the dash would work?


Old Oct 14, 2025 | 01:03 PM
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70sgeek's Avatar
'72 Cutlass ragtop
 
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From: Tampa, FL
I had that issue when I first got my ragtop - my interim solution was temporary, as I had already planned to modify my bottom a/c vent panel for the install of a custom center gauge cluster panel that a board member here makes to order.

The thing I did was to install a switch into the bottom a/c vent panel within reach of my right arm extension. I cut a small hole in it to accomodate the switch install and that worked perfectly for me until such time I made other mods to later install my custom gauge cluster - at which point the part I cut the hole in was removed from the remaining section I needed and then I went back in behind the dash to finally remove the old switch for replacement with a new repro unit (which thankfully still works 9 years later...)
Old Oct 14, 2025 | 01:13 PM
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Rokjhn's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 70sgeek
I had that issue when I first got my ragtop - my interim solution was temporary, as I had already planned to modify my bottom a/c vent panel for the install of a custom center gauge cluster panel that a board member here makes to order.

The thing I did was to install a switch into the bottom a/c vent panel within reach of my right arm extension. I cut a small hole in it to accomodate the switch install and that worked perfectly for me until such time I made other mods to later install my custom gauge cluster - at which point the part I cut the hole in was removed from the remaining section I needed and then I went back in behind the dash to finally remove the old switch for replacement with a new repro unit (which thankfully still works 9 years later...)
Interesting , any pictures of the custom center gauge cluster panel?
Old Oct 14, 2025 | 02:16 PM
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70sgeek's Avatar
'72 Cutlass ragtop
 
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From: Tampa, FL
The cluster is loosely patterned after the factory 8-track enclosure which was optional to the Cutlass models - the board member who makes them is still active and he can make them in different lengths and/or face plate configurations to fit gauges, aftermarket radio, etc.



Old Oct 14, 2025 | 06:42 PM
  #5  
twilightblue28A's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Rokjhn
Have a bad convertible top switch in my 1972 Olds Convertible that was a royal pain to get out of the dash. Cussed it a lot while busting up my knuckles and becoming a contortionist while getting to it, however, was grateful for the experience and rewarded with a functioning top once I had the old switch out and plugged in the new one. That said, I now have the switch hanging below the dash and am really not very enthusiastic about reinstalling it behind the dash so looking for some options
I had similar concerns regarding my convertible top switch. I dreaded the installation. A friend used a camera with a scope. We put the switch back in in less than 1/2 hour. No extra strength Tylenol needed. Give it a try.
I hope this helps.

Last edited by twilightblue28A; Oct 14, 2025 at 06:46 PM.
Old Oct 15, 2025 | 08:19 AM
  #6  
70sgeek's Avatar
'72 Cutlass ragtop
 
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,328
From: Tampa, FL
Using a small hand-held mirror also works - that's what I ultimately did when replacing my switch.
Old Oct 15, 2025 | 01:10 PM
  #7  
matt69olds's Avatar
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From: central Indiana
Take the seat out, lay on the floor.
Old Oct 15, 2025 | 04:50 PM
  #8  
drop top olds's Avatar
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From: Austin, TX
Replacing the switch is a pain. But I hate having a hole/void in the dash. The previous owner used a black plastic toggle switch and drilled a hole in the lower dash vent. I wanted to keep mine as factory as possible.
If it bugs you disconnect the switch and put it back in place. Then place the switch somewhere out of sight like behind the ash tray door?
Old Oct 16, 2025 | 04:55 AM
  #9  
Greg Rogers's Avatar
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I replaced my wood grain and had to R&R those switches- yes it is a PIA! But now it is done- properly. Just take your time and it will be done correctly. I have redone quite a few things on my Olds that I "fixed" back when the car was a 20 yr old driver- now it is a 54 year old car!! Worth quite a lot. So my advice is fix it right and be done with it. If you're like me your eye will always be drawn to the "incorrect" repair and it will bug you...
Old Oct 16, 2025 | 08:35 AM
  #10  
7thof11's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Rokjhn
Have a bad convertible top switch in my 1972 Olds Convertible that was a royal pain to get out of the dash. Cussed it a lot while busting up my knuckles and becoming a contortionist while getting to it, however, was grateful for the experience and rewarded with a functioning top once I had the old switch out and plugged in the new one. That said, I now have the switch hanging below the dash and am really not very enthusiastic about reinstalling it behind the dash so looking for some options Has anybody relocated the switch to a more suitable (accessible) permanent location successfully? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. The cruise control switch is already missing, so maybe an external box on the dash would work?

Old Oct 18, 2025 | 06:31 AM
  #11  
Blue442's Avatar
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From: Maryland
I did my wiper switch yesterday. I used a mirror, flexible extension, a round “thumb” drive and some blue painters tape. I left the drivers seat in but when needed came at the screws from behind the dash with the flexible extension using the mirror to guide the extension. You will need to remove the fuel, pressure and temp gauge for access. Take your time. The key is good placement of a light and mirror.




Old Oct 18, 2025 | 06:40 AM
  #12  
Blue442's Avatar
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Here is a picture of what the back looks like. Another tip is to use tape to secure the screw when installing the switch. Put the screw in the socket, take a piece of tape and push the screw through the tape and secure the tape to the socket. Pull the socket off before you tighten the screw down all the way and the tape should pull off with the socket. My friend Dave Siltman taught me the mirror and tape tricks.


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