My Convertible up\down switch doesn’t work, so I ordered a new one from Hydro-E-Lectric on EBay and the new switch and old switch are very different? Of course they aren’t open this weekend so I’ll give them a call on Monday. However, curious if anybody’s had this problem before. The one on the left is original while the one on the right is the new switch which won’t plug in correctly. Something I’m missing maybe?

 

You ordered the correct switch? I replaced my original 1971 CS switch and it was a perfect match. Not sure if they made changes to that switch between 71 & 72. The separate (white) backing plate fit that switch?

 

I believe I did.

https://www.hydroe.com/products/top-...1458197c&_ss=r

 

I can't state exactly what's going on w/ your switch(es). Might there exist the possibility the switch you removed wasn't an OEM switch - perhaps replaced by a PO? At any rate, I'll toss up some images when I replaced my 1971 CS convertible switch. You'll note the white backing plate I referenced in my previous post, but now on my PC it looks like the backing plate can actually accommodate any of the six pin combinations. In my images I noted "T" for top & "B" for bottom relative to installation so I wouldn't get confused regarding orientation when I installed the new switch. Worked like a champ for me; sorry, that's about the best I can do.

 

Norm sent me his original switch and I took it apart to see what’s inside. Below are pictures showing the single contact on one side of the pin housing and the single spring loaded pin in the rocker portion of the switch, on the same side as the contact and pins. I have no idea how your switch would operate based on what I see inside this one.

 

 

I reviewed several other Hydro-E-Lectric switches today (nothing exhaustive mind you) to determine if there were other Hydro-E-Lectric switches. I noted several other Hydro-E-Lectric switches for sale which had 3 pins running vertically in the same row/line/orientation (e.g. Skylark, GTO) of select model years. None of those switches had pins offset from each other - all contained only 3 pins aligned in a single row. Several "notions" come to mind:

(1) Doubtful your currently installed top switch is OEM factory for a 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible;
(2) More likely your currently installed top switch is aftermarket or OEM from an entirely different model/year vehicle (possibility not even GM);
(3) What does the connector plug which plugs into the switch look like - i.e. running to the electric motor in the trunk behind the rear seat look like? Curious if a new (non-OEM aftermarket) wiring harness was previously installed in your car & your currently installed switch was part of that aftermarket wiring harness. There have been several aftermarket vendors who have specialized in convertible top motors/pumps/cylinders over the past 50+ years;
(4) I noted a peculiar shiny object (looks like solder?) in the left-hand (black) center position of your currently installed switch. Curious what that's all about.

Finally, you might call Hydro-E-Lectric &/or send them an image of your currently installed switch. They may provide a clue. They may have been commissioned/contracted by another (wiring harness) company to make that switch. The service/support/sales personnel at Hydro-E-Lectric are knowledgeable & easy to talk with.

 

Kenneth - I was curious if you had ever taken the switch apart. Nice. Maybe you posted image(s) & I missed them.

 

The original switch you took out is not a power top switch. It is a factory cruise control engage switch. There should be a small red indicator light in the front of the switch. Hopefully you did not throw it out, because they are not reproduced. If your car does not have cruise control, I am sure someone on here would be happy to buy it from you.

 

 

Sometimes pins are there to prevent misassembly of incorrect items and to physically differentiate between them. I think one pin in Ken's pictures shows that, it's a pin that goes nowhere.