Hey Guys, I have a 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass/F85 4-Door Sedan. I am in the process of restoring the floor pans, trunk, under-body, and all lines. The front driver and passenger floor pans are rusted out and partial of the middle transmission hump, and right up under the front bench seat where the seat attaches to the Middle Body Brace. Next, it is also rusted out under the rear seat in both corners near the inside Quarters. Last but not least, inside the trunk right behind the rear seat divider on the top floor deck, both sides near the Top Quarters are rusted-out. Also, the driver left and passenger right trunk floor pans are also rusted. Lastly, the Driver and passenger Side Quarter Drop offs are completely rusted.

 

Sounds like you have a parts car. There's absolutely no value in repairing all that rust. Market for more door cars is next to zero

 

Wow, thanks for the advice Allan R!
But, anyway if anybody know where I might be receiving water from I will greatly appreciate it. My frame and body is solid just some surface rust. I rather restore everything back to its original state. I have mostly all my parts to restore just want to stop the water before I start welding in new panels.

 

X2 Sorry to be the bummer on your plans but the cost will be tremendous and the value is not there. If it runs good and you can enjoy it as is then go ahead and do that. Maybe pop rivet in some metal patches, etc. You could easily spend $10-12,000 or more restoring a car that is worth maybe $4 or 5 thou. I've lived in Michigan my whole life and I know about rust. Check out some of the threads on here about restorations, not cheap and take a lot of time.

 

Check seals windows, doors, front and back windshields.

 

I would suggest that before you spend any money on this car, pull the stainless trim from around the windshield and back window. I suspect you will find that there is pinchweld rust, which is causing the leak. The only way to repair this is welding in new metal. As the others have said, you can probably buy a rust-free western four door for a lot less than the cost to fix this one. Also note that the repro floor pans available are for the shorter two door cars. You might have a problem finding replacement pans for a four door. Your money, your call.

 

Thanks Joe for that info to 'Check seals windows, doors, front and back windshields' and for your advice to pull the stainless trim from around the windshield and back window. Because that's what I originally suspected in the first place. Finally, someone have answered the question I've been asking all alone.

For Alan R. and Greg, I am a 'Certified Welder' by trade. Also, I have been offered over $10,000 for my car on several occasions. I don't know from who or how you purchase your parts for restorations but I already have all my pans and more to do the job for the inside of the car and trunk. I also have new 3-vent gas-tank with hoses, sending unit, and straps. Yet, I have not spent no more than $500.00 total. So far, I have already blast and rust restored the entire rear under-body. Now, I am working my way towards the front of the vehicle. So, once I discover the leak and seal it I am home free. Then, I can start welding, I was just trying to get my question answered to help guide me in the right direction to find the leak. But, thanks anyway Alan and Greg for the destructive criticism I need all I can get.

 

Really? And you didn't take it with all the rust and rot that was evident? Does the car have a lot of sentimental value? If you'd mentioned you were a welder by trade I would have factored that into my comment as I know that cutting and welding is a big part of the replacement process.

Good for you. How we purchase parts is irrelevant to your project, and anyone can buy a fuel tank, hoses and straps quite inexpensively. How you got floor pans or other sheet metal is your business, but I know they don't just fall of the turnip truck onto your lawn.

What makes you think the rot didn't happen simply from exposure and driving in crappy weather or salted roads? If the water was coming in from the cowl or upper dash, there should be evidence of that simply by pulling the carpet and checking the angled sheet metal, and the upper dash would show significant rust by the bottom of the dash. Hopefully you do know that none of the early cars came from the factory with rust inhibitors like todays cars do, and they weren't all that carefully built or sealed against the weather. In terms of life expectancy, most of these cars would typically only be around for 4-7 years and then they were done and in the boneyard. Now you're dealing with a car that is 47 years old and you're surprised by the amount of rust it's accumulated? Unless you actually know the history of the car, where it lived or how it was stored you need to consider this aspect too. The rust areas you described are very typical and common on these cars. I was surprised to hear that your frame is in very good condition given the amount of corrosion you stated.

When you post comments about how badly deteriorated the car is , with no other information or pictures to show your project you should expect to hear something about why bother, and your sarcasm is noted, but not warranted. If you think that was destructive criticism you need to look at your original post again and re-evaluate your destructive criticism of Greg and myself. We simply commented on the content of your post. This is an open forum and you should expect to hear the good with the bad. Sorry you got the wrong impression, but in all honesty you could have prepared the post a little better - something like this:

 

Look, I'm the worst person in the world when it comes to putting waaaay more money into a car than it is worth, so I'll certainly never criticize anyone for doing that. Folks here are simply suggesting that you make these decisions with your eyes open. Frankly, if you can get someone to give you $10K for an F-85 more-door, you should run, not walk, to the bank with the money. And unless you value your time at nothing, the cost of the parts will be a minor factor in the cost of repair and restoration. Again, not a criticism, just a fact.

 

Well although I don't see anywhere in your initial post a question about WHY it's rusted or WHERE the water may be coming from, here's a helpful suggestion that may pinpoint (or not) your leak. Use a hose and run water over the outside of the car where you suspect the leak may be coming from. Keep doing this till you find the source of the leak - if there is any. It may be a blocked drain channel at the front, but likely a poor body weld at the back. Put LOTS of water over the trim pieces as they are prone to leaking. If you get nothing you know the leak came from underneath and rear wheel well perforation.