Can you decode my VIN?
Can you decode my VIN?
I used http://v8cars.hu/oldsvin/decode.php but all they could give me was the year, 2 door holiday coop, and what plant it was made. I'm looking for more in depth info such as what the rear end gear ratio is, what the paint code is, anything neat and specific to the car. Also if my engine is a high comp or low comp engine (its a 2 barrel if that immediately rules out hi comp), ect. can anyone decode this info for me? I'll post up the VIN if so
Yea, post it up. The vin doesn't tell you much, but the body tag does. A number of the guys can tell you a little more. In fact, at least post the body tag numbers. Its over there by your master cylinder just above it on the cowl. That gives paint codes and some trim info.
I don't think any of that will give you info on the rear though. Its probably a 2.56 one wheel peel.
very common. At some point you might be changing the diff lubricant, that's a good time to check the numbers on the ring gear and know for sure.
I don't think any of that will give you info on the rear though. Its probably a 2.56 one wheel peel.
very common. At some point you might be changing the diff lubricant, that's a good time to check the numbers on the ring gear and know for sure.
Yea, post it up. The vin doesn't tell you much, but the body tag does. A number of the guys can tell you a little more. In fact, at least post the body tag numbers. Its over there by your master cylinder just above it on the cowl. That gives paint codes and some trim info.
I don't think any of that will give you info on the rear though. Its probably a 2.56 one wheel peel.
very common. At some point you might be changing the diff lubricant, that's a good time to check the numbers on the ring gear and know for sure.
I don't think any of that will give you info on the rear though. Its probably a 2.56 one wheel peel.
very common. At some point you might be changing the diff lubricant, that's a good time to check the numbers on the ring gear and know for sure.cowltag1_zpscc09c959.jpg
cowltag2_zpsa9ef2565.jpg
The rear end is a 12 bolt, and it is an open rear, non posi. I'm wondering what ratio because I may get a posi carrier and 3:73 or maybe even 4:11 gearing depending on what its got now.
I used http://v8cars.hu/oldsvin/decode.php but all they could give me was the year, 2 door holiday coop, and what plant it was made.
Start with the body tag and VIN decode in the Chassis Service Manual.
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...aldisplayed=50
The "SPECS" booklets are a good place to go from there for more info.
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...aldisplayed=50
Then on to the Assembly Manual and much more. And it is all free of charge!
Wild About Cars. http://wildaboutcars.com. An information supersource, especially Oldsmobile. More Olds content than anywhere else on the internet and continuing to grow.
You'll find Chassis Service Manuals, Product Information Manuals (AKA Assembly Manuals), Inspector's Manuals, and other documents that will contain this and much much more.
Dealer Brochures, magazine ads and articles, and a home page for you online with your own garage where you can show off what you have.
Free to join, free to learn.
WILD ABOUT CARS is a great site and you will find a ton of info there about your car. I highly recommend you join.
As for your trim tag, I'll take a shot at it since the last one I tried I messed it up! You should confirm through WAC.
ST 69 = style/model year = 1969
33687:
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V-8
87 = body type = holiday coupe (what we used to call a 2-door hardtop)
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing, MI
282014 BDY = Fisher Body number (has no relation to the VIN)
TR 333 = interior color and front seat type = blue interior with a split bench seat (that means it's just a regular bench seat with separate seat backs for driver and passenger; a third person would have to sit up against the seat back crack)
50 C PNT = lower and upper body colors and type of top
50 = cameo white
C = blue vinyl top
02A = time build code = February (02), first week of that month (A), 1969.
Your VIN probably looks something like:
336879Mnnnnnn - where the "n" slots represent the assembly plant sequence number. I'm not completely sure about this but I THINK some or all of the 442 models from Lansing in 1969 had a Cutlass code on the trim tag but the VIN showed it as a 442. In that case, if you have a 442, the VIN would look like 344879Mnnnnnn.
The differential code is usually stamped into the passenger side axle casing facing forward, and it may appear upside down. It will be either a two-letter code or a letter-number code. It may be covered by years of dirt, grease, oil and other grime that needs to be cleaned off before you can read it. But that will tell you what your rear end ratio is and where you have an open or anti-spin differential (that is, if no one has messed with it!). You'll find those codes at WAC.
The same goes with identifying your engine and transmission. You should find all the info you need at WAC for those entities. If you have the original engine and transmission that came with the car, a VIN derivative will be stamped into the engine block and the transmission casing that essentially matches the VIN of your car. The VIN derivative will look like this: 39Mnnnnnn - where the 3 represents Olds, the 9 is the model year (1969), the M is the assembly plant (in this case, Lansing) and the nnnnnn is the same as the last 6 numbers of your VIN.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
As for your trim tag, I'll take a shot at it since the last one I tried I messed it up! You should confirm through WAC.
ST 69 = style/model year = 1969
33687:
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V-8
87 = body type = holiday coupe (what we used to call a 2-door hardtop)
LAN = assembly plant = Lansing, MI
282014 BDY = Fisher Body number (has no relation to the VIN)
TR 333 = interior color and front seat type = blue interior with a split bench seat (that means it's just a regular bench seat with separate seat backs for driver and passenger; a third person would have to sit up against the seat back crack)
50 C PNT = lower and upper body colors and type of top
50 = cameo white
C = blue vinyl top
02A = time build code = February (02), first week of that month (A), 1969.
Your VIN probably looks something like:
336879Mnnnnnn - where the "n" slots represent the assembly plant sequence number. I'm not completely sure about this but I THINK some or all of the 442 models from Lansing in 1969 had a Cutlass code on the trim tag but the VIN showed it as a 442. In that case, if you have a 442, the VIN would look like 344879Mnnnnnn.
The differential code is usually stamped into the passenger side axle casing facing forward, and it may appear upside down. It will be either a two-letter code or a letter-number code. It may be covered by years of dirt, grease, oil and other grime that needs to be cleaned off before you can read it. But that will tell you what your rear end ratio is and where you have an open or anti-spin differential (that is, if no one has messed with it!). You'll find those codes at WAC.
The same goes with identifying your engine and transmission. You should find all the info you need at WAC for those entities. If you have the original engine and transmission that came with the car, a VIN derivative will be stamped into the engine block and the transmission casing that essentially matches the VIN of your car. The VIN derivative will look like this: 39Mnnnnnn - where the 3 represents Olds, the 9 is the model year (1969), the M is the assembly plant (in this case, Lansing) and the nnnnnn is the same as the last 6 numbers of your VIN.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
Wow, thanks for all that info! I dunno why but its so cool reading all the specs on the car from when it was built, like I said the car is all original and been in the family since almost new so it matches everything you decoded. Good to know the paint name/code though, now I can get er back to how she looked. If anyone's curious heres how the car sits currently after a lot of TLC:
ontheground1_zpsd0f09052.jpg
I put those rims and tires on because the stock original wheels had sadly rusted, BUT when we pulled it out of the barn, it still had the OG wheels. The hubcaps are still nice though.
Also, thanks both of you for telling me about Wild About Cars, it looks like a great resource, the kind I wish I had for all my projects!
ontheground1_zpsd0f09052.jpg
I put those rims and tires on because the stock original wheels had sadly rusted, BUT when we pulled it out of the barn, it still had the OG wheels. The hubcaps are still nice though.
Also, thanks both of you for telling me about Wild About Cars, it looks like a great resource, the kind I wish I had for all my projects!
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