Just found site and looks like its going to be a lot of help. Just started restoring a 1970 442 convertible. The car was missing the front end and motor:-(. My friend sold me a 1970 cutlass S that is complete and solid. The front end should work, right, and what should I be looking for on the motor casting?

 

Welcome to our site! I can't answer your question, but the guys will be around eventually!

 

Congrats on your purchase and good luck! The 70 front end will work. If you are looking to put the right motor for that year back in there are some casting numbers that are obvious. The 455 block with casting number located behind the water pump, on top of timing chain housing is easy to see and should be 396021F. These blocks were made for 1968-72. The cylinder heads for the 455's are mostly identified by a casting letter located on front, lower left of the cylinder head. In your case, you want to find E heads for your 396021F block. These in my opinion are the most obvious when looking at "matching numbers" and so forth. Your car will never be matching numbers but you can try to get as close as possible. I am sure someone on this site has what you need. Lets see some pix of the car and options.

 

 

Thank you Scrappie for the information, here is a picture of the name plate, just don't know how to read all the information on it.

 

This is what I get:
1970 442 conv. built in Freemont CA
black bucket seat interior, black exterior with black top built 4th week of Nov. 1970.

We still need some pictures and maybe the VIN# also. It looks like someone may have tried to drill out the rivets on that cowl tag?
Looks like a bit of rust under that tag also?

 

The guy I bought it from had to move it outside with no cover over it, sat in rain with no front clip on it for about 2 years. I will take some more pictures tonight.

 

No one has tried to drill out the rivets from looking at the pic...they appear untouched.

 

IMO, I would somewhat agree the tag looks original from the pic, but it does look like the center pin that crimps up the back of the rivet fell though on its own or were punched though for one reason or this other, in an attempt to get the tag off without drilling them out. by punching the pin through it could straighten the back of the rivet out enough to get the tag off without it looking like it. i would be looking for any signs of an adhesive holding that tag on to make sure it wasnt pulled off a wreck and put on this car. i would also check the dash tagged for any similar signs that could indicate removal from a donor/totaled car... i.e. the rivet center pins are also missing, if there's silicon/adhesive holding it in place or there are new rivets and/or the dash tag has been painted over in an attempt to cover them up. Then again who would ever think to do such a thing!! Can you get a pic of the dash tag and rivets?

 

Here's a detailed look at your cowl tag:

ST 70 = style/model year = 1970

34467: 3 = GM division = Oldsmobile, 44 = model = 442, 67 = body type = convertible

BF = assembly plant = Fremont CA

00079 BDY = body number (has no relation to the VIN)

TR 970 = interior color and front seat type = black interior with strato bucket seats

19 B PNT = lower body color and upper body color/type = ebony black (lower body color = 19) with a black convertible top (B)

11D = time build code = the 11th month (November), fourth week of that month (D), 1969

199943 710571 are numbers that seem to be peculiar to the Fremont assembly plant but the breakdown of those numbers is uncertain

Your VIN should start with 344670Z1------. Those last numbers are the plant sequential number.

Randy C.