chasis to body alignment
#1
chasis to body alignment
ok so I am getting ready to put the body back on the frame ( this weekend coming up) I know it should be fairly straight forward but I have read of folks using alignment pins ( like 1/2 inch bar stock) in holes in the frame that correspond to holes in the body. Has anyone done this? I assume I do not torque the body all the way down, or torque them down and loosen a little when I fit the fenders and hood in case any slight alignment issues arise?
I also assume you just measure side to side and front to back and diagonally to make sure the body is square on the frame anything I am forgetting? I have only taken one body off the frame and this is my first time putting it back so be gentle
thanks in advance fellas.
I also assume you just measure side to side and front to back and diagonally to make sure the body is square on the frame anything I am forgetting? I have only taken one body off the frame and this is my first time putting it back so be gentle
thanks in advance fellas.
#2
Eddie, surprised there was no input here. So here goes.
Yes, do as you mentioned with measuring the body from side to side and front to back and X if possible. No pins...just look up through the mounting holes in the frame to see where the bolt needs to go. I used the back side of the rockers to the side rail as a good starting point and that should get you fairly close. Since you have a conv, you will need to tighten all of the mounts in order to align the doors. But make sure you also align the complete front end too before calling the body adjusting complete. The radiator support is designed to move from side to side as that is an adjustment that is made to get the fenders and hood to align correctly. If the body is not sitting on the frame correctly, you may find that the radiator support needs to be pushed all the way to one side or the other in order to get the front hood - to - fender gaps correct. If you find that situation, you'll need to adjust the body a little until the support sits more in the middle of the front rails. Post something when you get to the point of aligning the front sheetmetal and I can give you some suggestions.
Brian
Yes, do as you mentioned with measuring the body from side to side and front to back and X if possible. No pins...just look up through the mounting holes in the frame to see where the bolt needs to go. I used the back side of the rockers to the side rail as a good starting point and that should get you fairly close. Since you have a conv, you will need to tighten all of the mounts in order to align the doors. But make sure you also align the complete front end too before calling the body adjusting complete. The radiator support is designed to move from side to side as that is an adjustment that is made to get the fenders and hood to align correctly. If the body is not sitting on the frame correctly, you may find that the radiator support needs to be pushed all the way to one side or the other in order to get the front hood - to - fender gaps correct. If you find that situation, you'll need to adjust the body a little until the support sits more in the middle of the front rails. Post something when you get to the point of aligning the front sheetmetal and I can give you some suggestions.
Brian
#3
Thank You...
Brian, Thank You sir, will do that, I also realized after I posted that that I better well have the body down tight when doing the rear quarter work..then make adjustments as necessary.
#4
#7
You can see that the threaded holes in the body are centered over the body mount holes as you bring the frame and body together. Measure distance along the sides from frame siderail to body pinchweld to be sure the body is centered on the frame.
#8
getting excited...
Thanks everyone, few more hours of work, and then the weekend is coming, tomorrow I am picking up a door, then working on the body to the chasis !!! yeehaa!!!
my body mounting nuts (caged) in the body have a little movement? not much but they are not immovable? we are talking less than 3/8ths of an inch, but they don't spin around or anything, I guess this allows for slight adjustment, and they are all like this so I expect that they are suppose to move a little ( there is NO way I am cutting them all open and tacking them LOL)
I can not remember being this excited since I saw the 455 running on the engine stand
my body mounting nuts (caged) in the body have a little movement? not much but they are not immovable? we are talking less than 3/8ths of an inch, but they don't spin around or anything, I guess this allows for slight adjustment, and they are all like this so I expect that they are suppose to move a little ( there is NO way I am cutting them all open and tacking them LOL)
I can not remember being this excited since I saw the 455 running on the engine stand
#9
Thanks everyone, few more hours of work, and then the weekend is coming, tomorrow I am picking up a door, then working on the body to the chasis !!! yeehaa!!!
my body mounting nuts (caged) in the body have a little movement? not much but they are not immovable? we are talking less than 3/8ths of an inch, but they don't spin around or anything, I guess this allows for slight adjustment, and they are all like this so I expect that they are suppose to move a little ( there is NO way I am cutting them all open and tacking them LOL)
I can not remember being this excited since I saw the 455 running on the engine stand
my body mounting nuts (caged) in the body have a little movement? not much but they are not immovable? we are talking less than 3/8ths of an inch, but they don't spin around or anything, I guess this allows for slight adjustment, and they are all like this so I expect that they are suppose to move a little ( there is NO way I am cutting them all open and tacking them LOL)
I can not remember being this excited since I saw the 455 running on the engine stand
#10
hey buddie do not take this wrong i meant in that sentence about shims that you should use them on the fenders possibly doors and hood plus deck lid i replaced my bodymounts also but soaked them for 6 to 8 weeks beforehand for easy removal chicago winters are no better then the east coast good luck jfb.
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June 14th, 2011 06:43 PM