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Hi all,
I am new to this site.I love muscle cars. I have several 63 to 72 Chevy novas and a 69 Camaro. I'm over on Steve's Nova site.
I have come across a 1970 Oldsmobile 442 W30 holiday coupe car. It needs restored body looks pretty good overall original paint. I suspect it has not run in decades.The hood has been repainted, and the paint on the hood is not great, particularly on the white stripes and in the center of the hood.I have verified the correct intake manifold and 455 cid engine block and heads. It does not have the original m21 muncie, carb or distributor in it. We found a spare date coded 1970 Muncie transmission, but it does not appear to be the original Trans. We couldnt verify the TO rear end (couldnt locate the stamp) but it does seem to be either 342 or 355 limited slip. Interior needs headliner seat covers door panels carpet but it's all there. does not have original wheels on it. Has the plastic red inner fenders.
I am a Chevy guy, but as soon as I saw this car I started losing sleep. The fact that it's a W 30 car.
super excited! I think the odometer is 36K. Has title, protecto plate. Unfortunately, no build sheet.
Can someone please send me a message or point me in the right direction to who can help tell me what this is worth? The lowest that I saw was about 40 K comp on the internet. Sorry, I don't feel comfortable posting any pics just yet.
Last edited by chevyiiguy; Nov 9, 2025 at 01:18 PM.
Welcome to the site! The downside to verifying a W30 is everything that makes it one can be bolted onto a Cutlass/442. All the W30's were built in Lansing so if the letter in the vin is from any other assembly plant that would prove its not. But a lot of other cars were built there, so its presence doesn't confirm it. Also the Lansing plant is known for throwing out the paperwork that may other assembly plants left in the car. There are some guru's out there who could inspect it and look for clues that are typically on a W30. But without paperwork it may not be possible to prove it. Is there any history with the car? I know it's a million to one chance, but paperwork from when it was purchased would be the best thing you could have. Besides emblems, what else does it have that a W30 would have? Missing the carb and distributor is concerning and would be very hard to replace. I've got a 1969 W30 that's missing the original drivetrain and have resigned myself that as I build it the car will be period correct with as many 1969 W30 parts I can find. It will be a fun car but will never have the value that a documented car will have. I found an owner from the early 1980's when the car did have all the original drivetrain. But his word still isn't documentation. I hope you do buy the car and share pictures of it here, but bear in mind that the cost to restore it may not pay back big dividends down the road when you sell it. John
Welcome to the site! The downside to verifying a W30 is everything that makes it one can be bolted onto a Cutlass/442. All the W30's were built in Lansing so if the letter in the vin is from any other assembly plant that would prove its not. But a lot of other cars were built there, so its presence doesn't confirm it. Also the Lansing plant is known for throwing out the paperwork that may other assembly plants left in the car. There are some guru's out there who could inspect it and look for clues that are typically on a W30. But without paperwork it may not be possible to prove it. Is there any history with the car? I know it's a million to one chance, but paperwork from when it was purchased would be the best thing you could have. Besides emblems, what else does it have that a W30 would have? Missing the carb and distributor is concerning and would be very hard to replace. I've got a 1969 W30 that's missing the original drivetrain and have resigned myself that as I build it the car will be period correct with as many 1969 W30 parts I can find. It will be a fun car but will never have the value that a documented car will have. I found an owner from the early 1980's when the car did have all the original drivetrain. But his word still isn't documentation. I hope you do buy the car and share pictures of it here, but bear in mind that the cost to restore it may not pay back big dividends down the road when you sell it. John
hi John,
thanks for the reply!
thats cool - so you have a 69 w30.
i can understand the hours trying to source the corrects rare parts. Nos stuff even for novas is drying up the past couple years.
This car was purchased in the 80's.
body looks straight, a little rust up high in Passenger rear near gas tank of the subframe. The body panels are straight. Other than the hood, I'm pretty pleased with the paint except on the hood im fairly pleased with the body so far. Floor pan looks good but we havent had it on a lift yet. Ive restored some cars. Front subframe off complete redo of a 67 nova hard top- beautiful car, but non ss resto mod. We build high horsepower cars and do drag and drive events.
ive never been a Number's guy and just stumbled upon this car. unfortunately, no little Manila build sheet behind the rear seat back or seat bottom.
It's got manual disc brakes no AC, does have power steering. It's not all numbers matching -original intake manifold heads and block.170722 on the 4 speed transmission
1112033 on the distributor which look to be from a 71-72 455.
Hopefully the rear end is original.
didnt know if it is worth $30-60k ballpark to the right buyer?
Last edited by chevyiiguy; Nov 9, 2025 at 02:12 PM.
F heads? Lansing build? Red fenderwells? Block VIN derivative, matches car VIN? Runs and drives?
we havent turned it over yet.
in price negotiations. I can have it for a certain price today and I am the only current seriously interested buyer at the moment. I held the title in my hand the other day. About had a heart attack! Lol.
title: 344 with an M
red fenderwells
block vin matches vin on title
f heads.
Last edited by chevyiiguy; Nov 9, 2025 at 03:07 PM.
Wouldn't prove if it's a real W30, but something else you might check. Do the casting dates on block and heads look reasonable if they are factory original? Does the date on the trim tag looks reasonable for those casting dates? It sounds like you've done some research on Oldsmobiles since you found this car. If you need help finding any of these casting dates let us know. Also, you mentioned checking the rear end. The two letter code would be on the passenger side tube, but it may be on the back, bottom, upside down... clean the area good and see if you can find the code. Once again, won't prove that it is but if the gear ratio is one offered with the W30 4 speed that is a plus to consider. John
This is a longshot: if the car was originally sold in Canada (and IIRC something like 120 W-30s were), you can document it though Vintage Vehicle Services. They'll have all the info generated by the original dealer order, including the crucial W-30 option.
This is a longshot: if the car was originally sold in Canada (and IIRC something like 120 W-30s were), you can document it though Vintage Vehicle Services. They'll have all the info generated by the original dealer order, including the crucial W-30 option.
Might be worth looking into.
thank you
It is a two owner vehicle. I believe I know where it spent some if not all of its life here in the US.
Wouldn't prove if it's a real W30, but something else you might check. Do the casting dates on block and heads look reasonable if they are factory original? Does the date on the trim tag looks reasonable for those casting dates? It sounds like you've done some research on Oldsmobiles since you found this car. If you need help finding any of these casting dates let us know. Also, you mentioned checking the rear end. The two letter code would be on the passenger side tube, but it may be on the back, bottom, upside down... clean the area good and see if you can find the code. Once again, won't prove that it is but if the gear ratio is one offered with the W30 4 speed that is a plus to consider. John
It looks like a barn find of a car. It was pretty cool today to find that it is a matching engine and intake manifold. There is a traction bar in the place where we believe the code is for the rear end so I may not know if it's a TO rear end unless I purchase the car and remove them.
Dark blue with white stripes on the hood and the white stripe down the side of the car.
I may ask you all some casting number questions.
Its either 3.42 or 3.55 rear gear. Has the little aluminum limited slip tag on the differential cover. I do realize you could purchase these things but the underside looks untouched except new exhaust, air shocks, and the traction bars. Im sure it was hot rodded: rear wide tires, traction bars.
this car clearly has not been even attempted to be restored so I cant see why it would have any clone parts on it. I will check his paper work again now that i know what those little manilla build sheets are supposed to look like. I will bring money and if there is a build sheet, obviously it's a no-brainer to buy it.
To me on the Nova side of the fence this w30 car might be comparable for us in the form of a 1966 Chevy two hardtop L 79 car: that would be a 350 horse 327 with Muncie for speed and 12 bolt rear end that often fetch 6 figures.
Yeah, all those swapped parts point to 136,000 minimum...
I bet !
Sounds like you should offer 442 money not W30 money.
Having its original engine is everything, beyond a plus. And if your going to throw money at an Oldsmobile this is one of them. W30 or not.
I bet the odometer could have rolled over.
The asking price for this car to me in a
-fair- needs restored range for a 442-
seems good, thats why I am very interested in the car. Im not sure I will get many more of these opportunities in my lifetime. My car friends are telling me to go all in. I don't think I could lose.
I will check his paperwork and gather more information on the car.
thank you
Last edited by chevyiiguy; Nov 9, 2025 at 08:20 PM.
I don't think 3.55 was an option in 1970. My 1970 4 speed 442 came with 3.23 gears. Off the top of my head I don't know what gears were available with the W30 but I think it would likely be 3.42 or 3.91. If it was raced it may have had 4.33 or 4.66 installed. If you can't see the code then pulling the inspection cover would be my next step. In addition, you could inspect the gears and clutch pack. Sounds like a fun project car. I hope your able to work out a purchase!
You sound like you're about to get took. I bet the salesman is amping you up. Don't be surprised if another buyer "shows up" (seller's friend.) I had that happen to me one time, I got busy with the inspection mirror and the guy left because the con didn't take.
442 with rust and needing interior is a 20k car or less. W30 with all parts and verified is 30 or less. 60 comes from original, no issue, no doubt cars. If that price begins with a 3, you need a broadcast card.
First, with regard to the VVS documentation, since you don’t know who the first owner was or where he lived, I bet if you call VVS and give them the VIN they can tell you whether they can supply info for the car or not.
Second, it won't be a 3.55 unless the rear end is a Chevy 12-bolt. Seeing as you're a Chevy guy, I'm guessing you know the difference between a Type O and a Type C.
Third, you won't find a build sheet if it's a real W-30. Lansing cars had them removed 99.9% of the time. What you may find is an IBM trim card ("those little manilla build sheets") which would indeed show W-30 if the car is legit.
Fourth, the L-79 was a sweet little engine. Years ago, I had a '68 Camaro SS with one swapped in and lashed to an M-20 and 3.55 12-bolt and have lusted after a legit Chevy II/Nova with this drivetrain ever since. And yes, stumbling across a legit W-30 is the Olds guy equivalent to a Chevy guy finding one of these.
I did not read all the responses here but if it has no documentation that it is a real W-30 you can only pay 442 price. It is possible the broadcast card is still in the back of the front seat or under the back seat. This would document it if you can find it. Other than that, without original paperwork, there will always be a clown of doubt if it is real. There are MANY things that can point to real but nothing can confirm it without the documents.
I don't think 3.55 was an option in 1970. My 1970 4 speed 442 came with 3.23 gears. Off the top of my head I don't know what gears were available with the W30 but I think it would likely be 3.42 or 3.91. If it was raced it may have had 4.33 or 4.66 installed. If you can't see the code then pulling the inspection cover would be my next step. In addition, you could inspect the gears and clutch pack. Sounds like a fun project car. I hope your able to work out a purchase!
it's 3.42 or 3.55 but that's done with the crude method that most of us learned how to do.
yes, sir, I would pop the diff cover if I really needed to confirm it
You sound like you're about to get took. I bet the salesman is amping you up. Don't be surprised if another buyer "shows up" (seller's friend.) I had that happen to me one time, I got busy with the inspection mirror and the guy left because the con didn't take.
442 with rust and needing interior is a 20k car or less. W30 with all parts and verified is 30 or less. 60 comes from original, no issue, no doubt cars. If that price begins with a 3, you need a broadcast card.
this is very helpful.We are around 20 K right now. You all have confirmed what I have researched if there's no documentation it's not worth what I thought. They have been offered half that and obviously would not take it. It's just super cool because good chance it's a W 30. I personally haven't seen a 455 that could be mine in decades.
I did not read all the responses here but if it has no documentation that it is a real W-30 you can only pay 442 price. It is possible the broadcast card is still in the back of the front seat or under the back seat. This would document it if you can find it. Other than that, without original paperwork, there will always be a clown of doubt if it is real. There are MANY things that can point to real but nothing can confirm it without the documents.
thank you.
I will meet with the seller look through the documents again. If broadcast sheet is not there, then see if I can remove the seatbacks. They are likely original sun faded now light green, not blue. As I mentioned above no broadcast sheet to be found behind the seat back or bottom yesterday.
Fourth, the L-79 was a sweet little engine. Years ago, I had a '68 Camaro SS with one swapped in and lashed to an M-20 and 3.55 12-bolt and have lusted after a legit Chevy II/Nova with this drivetrain ever since. And yes, stumbling across a legit W-30 is the Olds guy equivalent to a Chevy guy finding one of these.
one day i will try to own an L79 66 hard top.
i think there are 7 or so known 1967 L79 cars known to exist. i have 66 and 67 nova non SS cars. Love those boxy novas as much as my 69 camaro.
You say the car has good original paint. I would check the stripes closely. Any indications the wide W-30 stripes were painted over the thin standard 442 stripes?
it's 3.42 or 3.55 but that's done with the crude method that most of us learned how to do.
yes, sir, I would pop the diff cover if I really needed to confirm it
I usually verify Over Drive Magazine with Automobile Catalog, but they have limited access to their site. Hopefully someone will chime in.
awesome! Thank you
so it could just be a w30 clone 442 with a 455, 4 speed, 12 bolt limited slip.
I am going to offer $10k. I cant get hurt at this price. It has new interior in bags and an extra muncie either m20 or 21.
floor pans so far look great with splatter? Paint, the rust i saw appears to be right passenger floor pan drop off. No body panel has obvious rust.
the red fender wells still have me on the w30 ride just a little. They were painted over:
Last edited by chevyiiguy; Nov 10, 2025 at 10:45 AM.
The red fender wells still have me on the W-30 ride just a little.
Somebody splattered the floorpans? That's weird.
I wouldn't let the red inners influence me one way or the other. Listen, there's a lot here that points to a W-30 but nothing provable.
You need to get a good look at whatever paperwork the seller has. If he has a real trim card with W-30 on it, you're golden. Failing that, I'd investigate the car's provenance on the off chance that it migrated South from Canada and can be documented that way, as mentioned above.
You need to be aware that authentication can make a huge difference in the car's value.
I wouldn't let the red inners influence me one way or the other. Listen, there's a lot here that points to a W-30 but nothing provable.
You need to get a good look at whatever paperwork the seller has. If he has a real trim card with W-30 on it, you're golden. Failing that, I'd investigate the car's provenance on the off chance that it migrated South from Canada and can be documented that way, as mentioned above.
You need to be aware that authentication can make a huge difference in the car's value.
I wish I took a picture of the floor pans.I will try to get over there to see the paperwork today
Did you say blue interior? If so, remove one of the seat backs assuming it's a bucket seat car and check for a broadcast card.
I removed both of the seatbacks, looked underneath both front seats, driver side carpet by the clutch panel, removed the rear seat back and seat bottom and looked underneath the package tray.
i did not find a winning lottery ticket. Ive never played the actual lottery but this one was free to try. :-)
I removed both of the seatbacks, looked underneath both front seats, driver side carpet by the clutch panel, removed the rear seat back and seat bottom and looked underneath the package tray.
i did not find a winning lottery ticket. Ive never played the actual lottery but this one was free to try. :-)
Try deeper under the carpeting closer to the center of the floor near the overlapping flaps. It would be odd for a non-black interior not to have any paperwork.
Another thing to do is make an offer and expect to be denied, then let it marinate and maybe he'll call you back soon after he comes down to earth.
Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
... which is a strategy that may work as long as there's no other interest. You need to be prepared to shrug your shoulders and walk away.
I offered $10k awhile back but this was rejected. This is because family thinks its a w30. Why wouldnt they? It presents like one. I sent him some pics of what I just found. I will make another offer if I get a meeting with him tonight.
I will see if he has a broadcast card. If not, like you all say, have to treat it as a clone and it will be worth less. The cinderella story would be that he has it but I wont hold my breath.
I will keep you all posted.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and wisdom with a chevy guy. 😂😁
Last edited by chevyiiguy; Nov 10, 2025 at 01:56 PM.
Whats his current asking? Silly to play the game of guessing what ridiculous price the sellers think their car is worth.
And if theyre selling it as a W30, it is on them to prove it is.
Whats his current asking? Silly to play the game of guessing what ridiculous price the sellers think their car is worth.
And if theyre selling it as a W30, it is on them to prove it is.
came down from $30k to 20k recently.
I couldnt get a hold of him tonight to discuss.
I just sent him more pics.
