Choke cable question
Choke cable question
My 79 cutlass does not have a choke when I bought it
I bought one off amazon and ran the cable etc.
the cable seemed very thin and it would close the carb flaps fine but didn’t have the power to open them fully
I have a Holley double pumper
my question is the choke quality
Are there chokes with good strong cables vs others. ?
I bought one off amazon and ran the cable etc.
the cable seemed very thin and it would close the carb flaps fine but didn’t have the power to open them fully
I have a Holley double pumper
my question is the choke quality
Are there chokes with good strong cables vs others. ?
Bringing this back for update
after trying the dorman choke cable that didn’t work good as it was to thin to push the flaps open
I bought the Holley cable and yes.
it’s a much thicker cable
no more issues
after trying the dorman choke cable that didn’t work good as it was to thin to push the flaps open
I bought the Holley cable and yes.
it’s a much thicker cable
no more issues
I have a non-GM car with a manual choke 2 barrel Autolite. I put a Holley choke cable on it with a Holley carb. The carb was replaced with the Autolite, but the cable remained. It has done ok, but I have had to lube it recently, so I think I will replace it with another one I have here. I do not have opinions on Holley chokes themselves. I do think Autolites are real bitchy until they warm up.
I have a non-GM car with a manual choke 2 barrel Autolite. I put a Holley choke cable on it with a Holley carb. The carb was replaced with the Autolite, but the cable remained. It has done ok, but I have had to lube it recently, so I think I will replace it with another one I have here. I do not have opinions on Holley chokes themselves. I do think Autolites are real bitchy until they warm up.
It should take virtually zero force to open the choke. Start by disconnecting the cable from the carb linkage and see if it takes any effort to move the linkage by hand. If it does, fix that. If it doesn't, see if you can move the cable by itself. If not, it's binding and either you need to fix the bind spot or get a new cable. There should be no need for a "heavy duty" choke cable, which is why you won't find one. Find and fix the real problem.
It should take virtually zero force to open the choke. Start by disconnecting the cable from the carb linkage and see if it takes any effort to move the linkage by hand. If it does, fix that. If it doesn't, see if you can move the cable by itself. If not, it's binding and either you need to fix the bind spot or get a new cable. There should be no need for a "heavy duty" choke cable, which is why you won't find one. Find and fix the real problem.
It should take virtually zero force to open the choke. Start by disconnecting the cable from the carb linkage and see if it takes any effort to move the linkage by hand. If it does, fix that. If it doesn't, see if you can move the cable by itself. If not, it's binding and either you need to fix the bind spot or get a new cable. There should be no need for a "heavy duty" choke cable, which is why you won't find one. Find and fix the real problem.
Yes, a correctly working choke cable should take the minimum of drag to pull upon.
I think the heavy duty idea comes from the cable sheathing. The one on my van now is wraparound metal, like it's in a spring. The one I have for it is plastic and coated. Perhaps it will retain more lube.
Yes, a correctly working choke cable should take the minimum of drag to pull upon.
Yes, a correctly working choke cable should take the minimum of drag to pull upon.
the Holley cable inside the sheathing is noticeable thicker which is what I needed
the Dorman cable is very thin and weak
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