Dang, it's been a long time since I bought a voltage regulator. Are the Delco regulators worth the extra bucks ($80-$100)?. Are they that much better? Originality is not that important, but I want quality parts that won't leave me stranded. What do you guys use for replacements? Thanks.

 

If originally isn’t important, put a modern alternator on and forget that old school crap.

 

100% Get an internally regulated.

 

If you want to maintain the optics of an original regulator with electronic control, you can get a plug-in replacement for the external regulator that has the same internal electronics as the used on later alternators. Swap the cap for a Delco script one and no one is the wiser. You can even buy this kit and do it yourself.

 

I guess what I mean is originality is not important as far as numbers matching, date coded etc. I have a new rebuilt alternator, and currently running an original crusty-rusty Delco off of a junkyard car that I installed to confirm my diagnosis. So, is a solid state replacement preferred over the original style?
I've never found that an internal regulator was easier to change or diagnose, especially on the road.
I wouldn't mind putting a Delco cover on just because.

 

The mechanical regulators work fine for a stock vehicle. If you have any electronics (stereo, electronic ignition, etc), the electronic regulator will have less noise and spikes on the power lines. This helps with less noise on the stereo and less chance of damage to the electronic ignition.

 

You can always clean up the original cover and respray it. Mine was completely rusty, but was all surface rust and cleaned up nicely.

 

All 39 amps of lighting inducing power!

 

And??? Having a higher output alternator doesn't make your, er, "hands" look any bigger. If you don't have a boatload of electronics, why do you need more?

 

Gee, I don't know. Peace of mind that the battery is actually charging and that the lights get as much juice as they can? You're right; I don't know shjt. Lemme bow to Joe P the Great

 

If spending money on a higher output alternator helps you sleep, knock yourself out. Can't say that I've every had a problem with my battery charging with a stock alternator output given stock loads.

 

Its now called: Upgrade. Literal translation........ fixing a problem that doesn't exist. The more "Upgrades" you can apply to a vehicle, the more impressed the reader should be.

 

If nothing on the car will draw more than 39 Amps, then installing a 100 Amp alternator will result in - wait for it - still nothing on the car drawing more than 39 Amps. You can't "push" current, it is "drawn" by the load.

 

Exactly what I am thinking. I bought a new good ole American Standard Ignition regulator just now. Proudly marked Made in China. It weighs like, well it weighs like there is nothing inside of it. I will put it in my tool bag.
I am running points, and as of 2021, I upgraded to FM stereo. I am not going to chance running with the radio on at night, that's for sure!
I travel every weekend 100-250 miles round trip somewhere to cruise-ins, Hot Rod Reunion, Somerset Ky. or jus the next town.
I see a lot of upgraded stuff on trailers, and that's great, most of them on trailers are real purdy. I enjoy sitting behind the wheel and driving my Olds.

 

My "upgrades" just went 2400 miles in 7 days, raced 5 of the 7, and averaged 11.78@120 on Hot Rod Drag Week. Have fun with your Curved Dashes.
somewhere in Illinois

 

What's your point? My four wheel drum brakes, manual steering, 14" tires, and original RH5 trans went 2700 miles in 9 days for Power Tour. This one's at Norwalk.

And as I said above, if you have increased electrical draw with fans, fuel pump, EFI, 8 gigawatt stereo, etc, yeah, you need to upgrade the alternator. If not, it's frankly a waste of time and money. I'd rather spend mine on go-fast parts. Also, given the number of posts here and elsewhere by people whose "upgraded" four wheel discs stop worse than their drums, or who admit that they run screaming like little girls if electrons are involved, a poorly-executed "upgrade" really isn't.

 

Man, hard to argue with that! Great trip…..

 

OK I'm bored stiff sitting in my boarded up house in Florida so I will add my two cents worth. Just a little info on the difference between the original point style regulator compared to the modern solid state style. The original can only handle a 3 amp load, where the solid state can handle 8 amps. So old style is maxed out with the 63-65 amp alternator. If you want to run 100 amp alternator with external regulator for looks you need to use the solid state with an original Delco lid.

 

No one is suggesting running a 100A externally regulated system with a mechanical regulator. Once again, the whole point of this discussion is that most "upgrades" are a waste of time and money if the car is stock or close to it.

 

Those things are pure evil...