Welding, better late then never?
Welding, better late then never?
Hey guys, I always wanted to learn to weld.
I was thinking about finally getting one.
There is always something to weld once in awhile.
Can anyone a good welder to start on?
I was thinking about finally getting one.
There is always something to weld once in awhile.
Can anyone a good welder to start on?
I would suggest that you start by taking an adult ed class on welding. The type of welder depends on what you plan to do. I have a torch, stick, MIG, and TIG welders, and use them all for different applications. Obviously the torch is what you need for cutting and heating rusty bolts. I've also done a lot of exhaust system welding with gas. The MIG is best for heavier work. I'm just now practicing my TIG skills, primarily for aluminum and sheet metal work. I haven't used my stick welder in about a decade. And I'm underwhelmed by the multi-function welders. One-size-fits-all is never a winner.
I would suggest that you start by taking an adult ed class on welding. The type of welder depends on what you plan to do. I have a torch, stick, MIG, and TIG welders, and use them all for different applications. Obviously the torch is what you need for cutting and heating rusty bolts. I've also done a lot of exhaust system welding with gas. The MIG is best for heavier work. I'm just now practicing my TIG skills, primarily for aluminum and sheet metal work. I haven't used my stick welder in about a decade. And I'm underwhelmed by the multi-function welders. One-size-fits-all is never a winner.
a class is always a great idea.
I took a welding class at a local vo-tech a few years ago. It was a good class but I got more from the auto body course I took at the same time. My father; Oldsguy, recently bought a 110V Hobart welder. He considered others but the Hobart seemed to be the best bang for your buck.
TIG is fantastic, and very difficult to learn. I'd heard that experience with gas welding is a good precursor, and that is absolutely true. The principles are the same, just the heat comes from an arc instead of a gas flame. Control of torch position and movement is extremely important. I'm just now mastering the added complexity of working the foot pedal to control heat. The capabilities are fantastic, but it takes lots of practice. I'm finally able to lay beads on aluminum that don't look like silver dog poo. I have been able to weld sheet metal without turning it into a potato chip.
I took a welding class at a local vo-tech a few years ago. It was a good class but I got more from the auto body course I took at the same time. My father; Oldsguy, recently bought a 110V Hobart welder. He considered others but the Hobart seemed to be the best bang for your buck.
When I took my adult ed welding course years ago, I built a 20 ton press that I use a lot in my shop.
X2 on the Hobart.
I have a Hobart 140 handler at home and it works really well. When you use it on 1/4' material it tends to get hot, so you have to run a couple of beads and let it cool down for a few minutes before continuing.
other than that it is a good entry level MIG welder. You can find good used torch sets on Craigslist for cheap.
Good luck with the new skill.
I have a Hobart 140 handler at home and it works really well. When you use it on 1/4' material it tends to get hot, so you have to run a couple of beads and let it cool down for a few minutes before continuing.
other than that it is a good entry level MIG welder. You can find good used torch sets on Craigslist for cheap.
Good luck with the new skill.
My 2 cents... Lincoln weld pack like they sell at Home Depot with the mig gas setup is great for me. I use it for body work and general metal repairs. Have an Oxy acetylene setup that I don't use, my little propane hand held torch takes care of rusty bolts. The Mig is easy to use, too hot and you blow holes, too cold and the metal doesn't penetrate....
I agree for the most part with multi function welders not being very good, however, the Esab EMP series seems to be the exception to the rule. The Esab is a very good tig welder that can also mig weld. Most others don't have a very good arc on the tig side. I have put hundreds of hours on a handler 140 and they are fantastic. I am currently in need of an AC tig machine and will probably try the alfa tig. I don't think I'll ever ditch my Emp 215...it's just awesome!
That's exactly what I had in mind. Honestly, I think the only complaints I've seen about that welder is the pedal. I absolutely love the superflex lead!
I've found MIG to be the easiest to use. I have a Lincoln Stick welder that I haven't used in forever. I picked up a Miller 180 (30 amp 220 volt MIG) about 10 years ago and a Miller 135 (15 AMP 110 volt MIG) used over the winter. Although the 180 has always been a good medium duty welder, I couldn't dial it down to weld the old floor pans so I had to grab the 135. With .023 and 70S2 wire I was able to weld the extensions where the fire wall meets the floor boards. Then again in the rear on the wheel wells. Sort of like TIG with a MIG stinger. The 70S2 wire was used to cool the puddle.
The 180 is no longer made and the replacement is the 211, both 110 volt and 220 volt power source can be used. Roughly 1K and a 60lb. 75% Argon/25% Carbon dioxide cylinder. Roughly $100.
Miller has discontinued the 252 MIG that I've used many times and it's a great all around welder. Waiting on a few payments to come in then that's the next toy, before they run out of stock. It comes with a 3K price tag though. Admittedly, I'v never tried to weld thin steel but a friend had one in his body shop (he passed away a few years back) and used it for years. At one time it was the premier welder. I've used about 10 different ones over the year and it's a great machine. I actually had our unit get one and use it at work quite often. It's a different technology than the other 3 I mentioned so it's very versatile. You'll need a 75% Argon/ 25% carbon dioxide cylinder for it as well. that should run roughly $150-$200 for a 120lb.
You can also get a spool gun for the 211 & 252 and weld aluminum and stainless, although it takes getting use to. you'll also need a different gas mix.
Miller has a lot of information for beginner welders on their web sight and there are some very good informational videos on, I hate to say it, You Tube.
As Joe suggested take a class. I wish I had the time to go back and get my certification, but with a full time job a full time business and 3 teenage kids, plus the cars, time is tight.
I've made many things for less than half of what they were listed for and customized the way I wanted over the years. I just made removable racks for my flat trailer for the canoe and kayaks that cost me roughly $300 with pull pins and POR15 paint. So the more you use the equipment the more cost efficient it becomes.
The more you advance will dictate the direction you go in. I was able to get a Plasma cutter from a gentleman on here that was selling his tools. It's a Hypo-Therm 45 and is an amazing machine and hardly ever use the torches anymore unless in need to heat something. I had an older Miller 625 and wasn't really happy with it. The Hypo-Therm is amazing but also comes with a 3K price tag.
Find a used MIG and play around. Once you get the hang of it decide what machine is good for you.
Welding is a game of patience and the analogy "It's like being with a woman" fits perfectly. To fast you're not going to please her, to slow she'll get board but take the time to she how she reacts and you'll get great results.
The 180 is no longer made and the replacement is the 211, both 110 volt and 220 volt power source can be used. Roughly 1K and a 60lb. 75% Argon/25% Carbon dioxide cylinder. Roughly $100.
Miller has discontinued the 252 MIG that I've used many times and it's a great all around welder. Waiting on a few payments to come in then that's the next toy, before they run out of stock. It comes with a 3K price tag though. Admittedly, I'v never tried to weld thin steel but a friend had one in his body shop (he passed away a few years back) and used it for years. At one time it was the premier welder. I've used about 10 different ones over the year and it's a great machine. I actually had our unit get one and use it at work quite often. It's a different technology than the other 3 I mentioned so it's very versatile. You'll need a 75% Argon/ 25% carbon dioxide cylinder for it as well. that should run roughly $150-$200 for a 120lb.
You can also get a spool gun for the 211 & 252 and weld aluminum and stainless, although it takes getting use to. you'll also need a different gas mix.
Miller has a lot of information for beginner welders on their web sight and there are some very good informational videos on, I hate to say it, You Tube.
As Joe suggested take a class. I wish I had the time to go back and get my certification, but with a full time job a full time business and 3 teenage kids, plus the cars, time is tight.
I've made many things for less than half of what they were listed for and customized the way I wanted over the years. I just made removable racks for my flat trailer for the canoe and kayaks that cost me roughly $300 with pull pins and POR15 paint. So the more you use the equipment the more cost efficient it becomes.
The more you advance will dictate the direction you go in. I was able to get a Plasma cutter from a gentleman on here that was selling his tools. It's a Hypo-Therm 45 and is an amazing machine and hardly ever use the torches anymore unless in need to heat something. I had an older Miller 625 and wasn't really happy with it. The Hypo-Therm is amazing but also comes with a 3K price tag.
Find a used MIG and play around. Once you get the hang of it decide what machine is good for you.
Welding is a game of patience and the analogy "It's like being with a woman" fits perfectly. To fast you're not going to please her, to slow she'll get board but take the time to she how she reacts and you'll get great results.
Every bit of the above info is good and correct. After you learn to run good beads, invest in a good system if you are going to keep welding for others. I'm 75 and have been welding since I was 12. My dad was a pipeliner and taught me well. I now have a Miller Syncrowave 250 and a Tractor supply cheapie for MIG welding. It is great for thin sheet using C25 gas and .023 wire and costs around $125.00.
IMO, MIG is the most used for the kind of junk we're likely to do. I have a torch at my house, and ready access to stick, MIG and TIG. I've slowly learned to MIG on the borrowed equipment, and just recently had my first need to attempt to TIG.
MIG is also the easiest to learn. Point and splatter.
You can usually find bottles on craigslist for fairly cheap. Even empty, that's the cheapest way to get into the game. Some Home Depots do bottle exchanges - just be careful, you'll know more about it than the store manager. I got cheap O2 and Ace bottles, the HF torch set, and a set of flash back arrestors. The hoses wore out after a few years, but the rest of the kit is pretty good. I still use the torch pretty regularly.
Just go straight to gas. Don't both with flux core wire unless you're working on top of a tower or in a windy field.
The Vulcan stuff at HF is actually pretty decent if you can't find a name brand used unit locally. I'd recommend going straight to 220v if possible.
MIG is also the easiest to learn. Point and splatter.

You can usually find bottles on craigslist for fairly cheap. Even empty, that's the cheapest way to get into the game. Some Home Depots do bottle exchanges - just be careful, you'll know more about it than the store manager. I got cheap O2 and Ace bottles, the HF torch set, and a set of flash back arrestors. The hoses wore out after a few years, but the rest of the kit is pretty good. I still use the torch pretty regularly.
Just go straight to gas. Don't both with flux core wire unless you're working on top of a tower or in a windy field.
The Vulcan stuff at HF is actually pretty decent if you can't find a name brand used unit locally. I'd recommend going straight to 220v if possible.
I agree with everything said here. The only thing I would interject is that while 220v machines can weld thicker stock and have a longer duty cycle, a good 120v machine (like an Eastwood MIG) are more versatile in that they can be plugged in anywhere vs. needing 220 volts, and can handle any of the welding you are likely to do on your car,.
Last edited by RandyS; Jul 10, 2020 at 02:27 PM.
Most of the newer 220V inverter welders are dual voltage and will automatically sense and adjust for input voltage. My AlphaTIG is like that. I've been running it on 110 so far, which limits me to 150A out of the 200A rating, but for sheet metal I rarely go over 25A anyway. My little WeldPak MIG is nice because it's small and as you said plugs in anywhere, and when I need the big MIG, I have the SP200.
I've been building custom cars for over 40 years now. Started with brazing, taught myself MIG, then TIG. If I had to limit myself to ONE welder, I think I'd chose gas. I know lots of people will disagree. With gas, you can weld, even heavier stuff. You can braze, solder, heat up frozen bolts, Heat and bend. You can weld aluminum (YES you can!) You can weld or braze cast iron, too. Super versatile, And he skills you learn, will transfer over to TIG, if you want to go further. Both gas and TIG make soft welds, so you can do sheet metal, and hammer out the warpage. TIG, you can do aluminum ( with an AC/DC machine), and even thin stainless steel, like body moldings. They offer very tight control, and beautiful welds when you get good at it.
MIG...easy, fast, not very precise, or pretty. Not hard to learn, but easy to mistake bad welds for good ones. Not as controllable with hammer and dolly, either. If you want to do better work, I wouldn't recommend it.
MIG...easy, fast, not very precise, or pretty. Not hard to learn, but easy to mistake bad welds for good ones. Not as controllable with hammer and dolly, either. If you want to do better work, I wouldn't recommend it.
I've been building custom cars for over 40 years now. Started with brazing, taught myself MIG, then TIG. If I had to limit myself to ONE welder, I think I'd chose gas. I know lots of people will disagree. With gas, you can weld, even heavier stuff. You can braze, solder, heat up frozen bolts, Heat and bend. You can weld aluminum (YES you can!) You can weld or braze cast iron, too. Super versatile, And he skills you learn, will transfer over to TIG, if you want to go further. Both gas and TIG make soft welds, so you can do sheet metal, and hammer out the warpage. TIG, you can do aluminum ( with an AC/DC machine), and even thin stainless steel, like body moldings. They offer very tight control, and beautiful welds when you get good at it.
MIG...easy, fast, not very precise, or pretty. Not hard to learn, but easy to mistake bad welds for good ones. Not as controllable with hammer and dolly, either. If you want to do better work, I wouldn't recommend it.
MIG...easy, fast, not very precise, or pretty. Not hard to learn, but easy to mistake bad welds for good ones. Not as controllable with hammer and dolly, either. If you want to do better work, I wouldn't recommend it.
+3 on gas. It has the widest application and use available for what we do in sheet steel. I like aircraft torch sets with the three common tips sizes, and Airco double-reduction regulators. The aircraft style works better in tight places then any other like the Henrob in my opinion. At some point acetylene may become controlled and unavailable without permits or priced out of easy reach.
I don't have call to do much work with modern high-strength steel materials, but I think we are sort of stuck with gas shielded wire feed welding in that work, and increasingly chemical adhesives. I have gas welded panels using high strength steel and the work looks ok but I have no way to know how it will hold up over time, meaning way beyond when the check clears.
I don't have call to do much work with modern high-strength steel materials, but I think we are sort of stuck with gas shielded wire feed welding in that work, and increasingly chemical adhesives. I have gas welded panels using high strength steel and the work looks ok but I have no way to know how it will hold up over time, meaning way beyond when the check clears.
Just to reflect back on the OP thread title. A friend of mine is a retired firefighter. At 67 years old, now 69, he signed up at a local Jr. College for welding classes. Passed with flying colors. It is never too late.
He retired before that but, I think he was 64 or 65. Time flies when you're getting old though, so it could have been before that. Anyway, he was in a suburb of Dallas. One of the few fire fighters I know that didn't retire early due to back disabilities.
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