RPM at highway speeds
July 30th, 2018, 07:45 PM
#41
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Location: Evansville, IN
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Ok the shifter cable is just a little slider thing on a spring. It may or may not line up with the detents (the clunky positions on the shifter). Sometimes it's not off in a one whole stop thing, just slightly.
Sounds like you know the drill, but start in park, and slowly ease the shifter down off the detent, then just finger push it into next slot, etc. Right after neutral should be D.
TH350s will always start in first, no matter the forward gear selection, at least, mine does. Had a 97 Explorer that would start in second when in 2. Useful for snow starts, it had a 5.0L Ford and too much torque for snow.
Edit: What the representative from Arizona said.
Sounds like you know the drill, but start in park, and slowly ease the shifter down off the detent, then just finger push it into next slot, etc. Right after neutral should be D.
TH350s will always start in first, no matter the forward gear selection, at least, mine does. Had a 97 Explorer that would start in second when in 2. Useful for snow starts, it had a 5.0L Ford and too much torque for snow.
Edit: What the representative from Arizona said.
July 31st, 2018, 08:32 AM
#43
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Thanks guys, I have read a few different ways of doing this. The most common seems to be to disconnect the cable and move the gear to neutral, then move the shifter to neutral and adjust the cable to line them up. Others seem to say to do the same procedure but with D to make sure that gear lines up, then others say either will work because once one gear is lined up right all the rest should be too. Any past experience proven that one way works better than another? I have never actually done this before so I want o make sure I get it right - hopefully to fix the issue but at the least I just don't want to make any new problems for myself, lol.
July 31st, 2018, 09:46 AM
#44
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I also figure while I am back down there and right beside it anyway, I am just going to pull the governor out and have a look. It looks like some pictures I am coming across have a retaining clip over that round cover, but if I recall, mine doesn't. Do some have it and some don't or has mine gone missing? Is there any type of seal that will need replacing or does it basically pry off, and after I take the governor out for a look and put back in, I just tap the cover back on? If there is no clip it must be a tight enough fit to stay on by itself...
July 31st, 2018, 11:54 AM
#45
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The cover SHOULD pop off with a hammer and chisel, tapping on the outer lip. I say should because sometimes the are lhard to remove due to “environmental loctite” The governor gover for a 700 is the same part. There is sometimes a o-ring on the lip of the cover, or just a small amount of RTV on the outer lip will seal it up
the governor weights should move freely and without any rough spots. The clip your talking about is included in the TransGo shift kits to convert the valve body to manual control. It locks the widgets in the max position to fool the valve body into thinking your traveling at max speed. Make sure the gear is in good shape, make sure the case bore the governor rides in isn’t scored or showed up. When you reinstall the cover don’t pound it on by hitting the center of the cover, you will deny the cover and remove all the clearance between the governor and cover. You will certainly tear up the governor. Find a peice of pipe that will just the outer diameter of the cover and use that as a driver to hammer the cover home
the governor weights should move freely and without any rough spots. The clip your talking about is included in the TransGo shift kits to convert the valve body to manual control. It locks the widgets in the max position to fool the valve body into thinking your traveling at max speed. Make sure the gear is in good shape, make sure the case bore the governor rides in isn’t scored or showed up. When you reinstall the cover don’t pound it on by hitting the center of the cover, you will deny the cover and remove all the clearance between the governor and cover. You will certainly tear up the governor. Find a peice of pipe that will just the outer diameter of the cover and use that as a driver to hammer the cover home
Last edited by matt69olds; July 31st, 2018 at 11:56 AM.
August 3rd, 2018, 01:20 PM
#47
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Alright, so here is the governor. As far as I can tell it seems to be OK, some minor wear on a small part of the gear near the base of it, but nothing really bad. The pieces on the end flop around freely and the piece inside seems to move well enough. When seated all the way to the back, away from the gear, the back opening is roughly half open, the middle is fully open and the front (closest to the gear) is closed. When the piece inside is all the way forward towards the gear, the back opening is closed, middle is open, and the front closest to the gear is about 3/4 open. Does that sound about right, or is the thing in the middle not working right?
On another note, this was a real treat to get out - a lot more difficult than I thought. There is not really any clearance. I could barely get the piece out once I finally got the clip and cover off. Getting it all back in should be fun. Lost more fluid that I thought too.
Thanks!
On another note, this was a real treat to get out - a lot more difficult than I thought. There is not really any clearance. I could barely get the piece out once I finally got the clip and cover off. Getting it all back in should be fun. Lost more fluid that I thought too.
Thanks!
Last edited by 71OldsCut; August 3rd, 2018 at 01:22 PM.
August 3rd, 2018, 06:48 PM
#48
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There is one more cheap test you might want to consider. Place some small peices of rubber hose in the governor weights, the need to be big enough to force the weights all the way out. They also need to tight enough that they won’t come out. With the weights held out you will trick the valve body into thinking your going 100mph, you have basically created a poor mans manusl valve body. If you put the shifter in drive, the trans SHOULD be in 3rd gear. You will have to pull the shifter in to first gear to start out, then put the shifter in 2nd to get 2nd gear, etc. I know it’s a pain in the *** removing and installing the cover, and having to do it again to remove the hoses. If you don’t have every gear you know you have valve body troubles
August 3rd, 2018, 08:21 PM
#49
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That is interesting. It is already back in, but I will think about trying that. It was actually easier to get back together than I thought.
My neighbors dad who is a retired mechanic still isn't convinced it isn't a vacuum issue. At this point the only way it could be vacuum related is if the 14.5" I currently have isn't enough. I did some looking and it does sound like 16" or more may be required to operate the transmission properly. So, before I pull the pan off and start messing with the valve body, we are going to adjust the timing and install/tune the new carburetor. That needs to be done anyway and if it increases the vacuum and in turn fixes the transmission even better. After that if I still don't have 3rd then I guess it will be valve body time.
My neighbors dad who is a retired mechanic still isn't convinced it isn't a vacuum issue. At this point the only way it could be vacuum related is if the 14.5" I currently have isn't enough. I did some looking and it does sound like 16" or more may be required to operate the transmission properly. So, before I pull the pan off and start messing with the valve body, we are going to adjust the timing and install/tune the new carburetor. That needs to be done anyway and if it increases the vacuum and in turn fixes the transmission even better. After that if I still don't have 3rd then I guess it will be valve body time.
August 4th, 2018, 09:56 AM
#50
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Your vacuum is probably a little low for a stock engine but still plenty for proper operation. My car idles with about 8 inches and shift like you would expect. If you think about it the same modulator works for a stock 350, or the Ram Rod cars, W-30 engines, etc. you can adjust shift points a few mph either way by turning the adjustment screw a couple turns.
August 4th, 2018, 10:25 AM
#51
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My neighbors dad who is a retired mechanic still isn't convinced it isn't a vacuum issue. At this point the only way it could be vacuum related is if the 14.5" I currently have isn't enough. I did some looking and it does sound like 16" or more may be required to operate the transmission properly.
September 21st, 2018, 06:10 PM
#52
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Hi guys, been a while for this thread I know, but have an interesting development. I had the car at a shop today and just mentioned the third gear issue in case he had anything he wanted to try. When I went back to get the car, he said third was fine . But it never hit third all the way to the shop. He showed me when the car was on the lift, if he got it up to 35 or 40mph, he could down shift to second, then first and back up to second and most importantly into third. But then again all the way home no third.
Anyone have any ideas why it will shift on the lift with no resistance but not on the road?
Anyone have any ideas why it will shift on the lift with no resistance but not on the road?
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