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350 RH exhaust manifold removal with A/C

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Old June 24th, 2017, 01:55 PM
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350 Cutlass RH exhaust manifold removal with A/C

I am replacing the RH side exhaust manifold. Got the first three bolts out (front to back). For the last two (closest to the firewall), I am having a hard time removing because of access. Can't get the ratchet in there to get a good grip , tried all combos of sockets etc, Car has A/C. I am not sure removing the outer cover of the evaporator box is going to provide any additional clearance for the rear bolt. So I looking for any tips for removing the RH side with A/C.

Last edited by Del70; June 25th, 2017 at 01:47 AM.
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Old June 24th, 2017, 05:12 PM
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If you can remove the inner fender well it should give you plenty of room.
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Old June 25th, 2017, 01:54 AM
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thanks. Removing the well was one thought as well, just was not seeing how it would help yesterday. Will take a look at it again. Was able to pick up an extra short extension that might help as well to get the ratchet just in the right position to clear the heat shield.
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Old June 25th, 2017, 05:10 AM
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Universal joint on the ratchet may help also. Access may be better from underneath the car.
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Old June 26th, 2017, 03:13 AM
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It Just took a real short extension that I picked up, a regular socket 9/16 or 14 mm which ever felt most tight, per bolt. Just needed that perfect length to clear the heat shield. I removed the wheel well, but it did not help me, but it will help with removing the pipe to the manifold studs/bolts. I used lots of penetrating. No heat required. All were removed w/o issue. Not as bad a job as I expected, but I know it can be.
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Old June 26th, 2017, 03:44 AM
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I put new, high quality grade 5 bolts back it when I replaced mine- originality be damned! They have a bigger thicker head and aren't as likely to shrink as much. I also left off the retainers after a huge fight with getting them off. Also lots of high temp anti seize.
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Old June 26th, 2017, 08:45 AM
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Bought new bolts, and washers and I have 4 new factory locks (retainers) on the way. Agree use a good grade high temp anti-seize as well. I think the original bolts might be fine, but a few had a little pitting under the head. I figure, why put them back in. I will have extra bolts/washers and two locks for the other side if needed, which I do not plan to touch unless it too needs to be replaced.
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