I am looking at replacing the weatherstripping/seals on my wing vents and am looking for some tips/tricks to get it done. I watched a couple of YouTube videos but they didn't make sense to me. (who knows, maybe it's just me? LOL)

My first question is do I have to remove the door glass to do this project? If have to remove the door glass, should this be an "off season" project where I can replace all of the weatherstripping on the doors at the same time? I am into my 2nd season with the 67 and really don't want to lose any cruise time by having it apart in my garage either working on this project and/or waiting on parts.

Thanks!

 

It can be done in a weekend if you don't need additional parts or hinge pins/bushings.

The vent rubber, glass run channel, and sweeps should be done together. The door to jamb, roof rail, and rear quarters can be done over the winter. IMO, you're there, do all of I,t especially if the roof rail is shot. The rear quarters will likely need adjusting, so the rear cards & seat have to come off.

Are the hinge pins & bushings good? If no do that and make sure the sheet metal aligns the way you want it.

Take both door cards off.
Disassemble one side at a time. Use the undisturbed side as a reassembly guide.

Pay attention to the position of everything before disassembly (mark it, take pics & notes, bag and tag as needed).
Count how many turn out on each adjuster. This will be the starting point upon reassembly.

Yes, the door glass needs to come out.
Now is the time to inspect the rollers. Clean and re-grease using nylon safe grease for the rollers. Lube the door catch mechanism lock tumbler too.

 

All great points. Thank you!
This sounds like something that I am going to do off season then.
Last spring I cleaned and lubed all of the window and door mechanicals, amazing how much easier everything worked after that. Ha.
The door springs and hinges are good, door alignment is good.
I agree with you, do it all! Thanks again for the tips!

 

Welcome.
While the door and rear quarters are open spray some Krown, fluid film or LPS in the doors and quarter seams.
Then get in the trunk and spray it over the wheel wells and trunk drop offs. Fender dog legs, trunk and hood lip too. A little goes a long way.

I do this every once in a while when things are apart for what ever reason.
Even though my cars is a California dry car; now that it no longer resides in a nice dry climate...one needs to chase the tin worms the hell off the car.
Damp high humidity is just as bad as salt given enough time to infiltrate.

 

I was literally just looking at this on my '68 five minutes ago.

Once the door card is off it's easier to see but the vertical track that the forward end of window glass rides in is riveted to the vent window regulator. You'll have to pull the vent window glass to install the weatherstripping and to get enough wiggle room you'll have to at least loosen that up enough to do so any may as well just do as these guys said, take it all out and clean it up.

The U channel fixed to the bottom of the door glass can be a pain. I saw six small machine screws, three on each side. Personally I'd separate the horizontal top half of the regulator to remove it before I'd bother with those. I just had to get a bit creative repairing all that and it wasn't a ton of fun. Must've done something right because I have it all in, aligned and working smooth as ... glass.

I had some sticker shock looking at the vent weatherstripping. On my '68 I saved about $35 by getting a set for a Chevelle not an Olds, same thing. I found it on eBay under Auto City Classic. Don't know if that's the case for a '67 but it might be worth a look. Hope this helps,

Oshkosh eh? Been there a couple times - you have a front row seat for the airshow !

 

Born and raised! My wife and I just bought a different place on the south side of town so we are just off of the flight line. We are looking forward to watching the air show from our back yard without a bunch of houses around to block the view.

 

Steel Rubber has the highest quality correct profile parts. You don't want to do this again in 5 years using the 1/2 price chineasium almost fits junk.

https://www.google.com/search?client...ubber+products

 

I heard some good things about them on a few different FB Olds/Cutlass pages too.