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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 06:01 PM
  #1  
chip-powell's Avatar
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From: Maryland
wheel bearings

Now that my '71 cutlass is in storage for the winter, I am in the process of gathering parts for the spring.

What I am looking for (and frankly confused about) are front inner and outer wheel bearings and grease seals. I have been to several stores and web sites and the price range is suprising to say the least. I've seen prices ranging from $29.50 each (Fusick) to $13.99 each (Advance Auto). Right in the middle is OPGI at $18.69 each. It just seems to go all over the place.

What worries me is the quality and fit of the parts. I'm tired of buying something online, waiting 4 weeks and have it be the wrong part. I have the same problem at some of the local stores (Autozone comes to mind) where I buy something and they insist that it is correct for the motor, I get it home, and it's wrong. I then return the part and the one that I actually need is not in stock.

I'm sure that there are several of you out there that have had this problem. Where would you guys suggest to go and get bearings and grease seals? What suppliers do you trust?
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #2  
MDchanic's Avatar
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From: The Hudson Valley
Fourteen bucks? For a wheel bearing? And I'd bet it's Chinese, too.

RockAuto has the inners, Timken SET6 and SKF BR6, for $5.07 and $6.94 respectively, and
the outers, Timken SET2 and SKF BR2, for $4.33 and $5.96.

Amazon has the
SET2 SET2
for $7.44, the
SET6 SET6
for $6.49, the
BR2 BR2
for $10.49 and the
BR6 BR6
for $12.42.

I would recommend going with a quality brand, Timken, SKF, ***, or Torrington, and get US-made if you can (which isn't likely these days), but if not, try for Slovenia, which was the source of many of our engineers and machinists back when our immigrants helped make out country better.

Oh, and here's a bearing interchange guide from Timken.

- Eric
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 06:51 PM
  #3  
BackInTheGame's Avatar
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From: Colorado - Front Range
Rock Auto!

RockAuto has the inners, Timken SET6 and SKF BR6, for $5.07 and $6.94 respectively, and the outers, Timken SET2 and SKF BR2, for $4.33 and $5.96.

^^^^ This!!!! ^^^^

Rock Auto is the Bomb! FAST turnaround, too!
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:14 PM
  #4  
MDchanic's Avatar
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From: The Hudson Valley
Oh, since I didn't address it, I should note that Fusick's price of $30 is nearly ten times the price at RockAuto.

There is no justification for that amount of markup.

- Eric
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:43 PM
  #5  
oldcutlass's Avatar
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You can also get them at your local auto parts store.
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 08:36 PM
  #6  
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x2 on the local parts store. Convenient to purchase and return/exchange if necessary. Do your homework on part numbers - all parts stores have online catalog lookup so you don't have to rely on the high school kid behind the counter - then go and buy them, making sure to verify the part numbers while you're there.

Fusick, OPGI, etc. are really not the place to buy typical maintenance items that are available locally - they just take advantage of folks who are unaware that these type parts are available from all the parts stores and think you have to go to a "classic car" outlet for parts.

Last edited by Fun71; Nov 24, 2014 at 08:39 PM.
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #7  
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X3 on the Timkens. Is there a problem with the old bearings? I realize that new ones are not expensive but if the old ones are in excellent condition you may be removing old time quality parts and replacing them with, well who really knows what.

If the old ones are excellent, consider cleaning and repacking them with high quality grease and replacing the seals.

FWIW, that is my $.02 worth.
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:09 PM
  #8  
chip-powell's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
You can also get them at your local auto parts store.

The "local" stores (Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance and O'Reily's) have all screwed me before on maintenance parts. Every one of them in my area has given me bad/wrong/defective parts in the past, and I no longer trust them.

I know that it is most likely not the stores themselves, but the people running them, but as the old saying goes "fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me". I just do not trust them anymore (at least locally) and will not spend my money there.

Last edited by chip-powell; Nov 24, 2014 at 10:13 PM.
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 09:14 PM
  #9  
chip-powell's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
X3 on the Timkens. Is there a problem with the old bearings? I realize that new ones are not expensive but if the old ones are in excellent condition you may be removing old time quality parts and replacing them with, well who really knows what.

If the old ones are excellent, consider cleaning and repacking them with high quality grease and replacing the seals.

FWIW, that is my $.02 worth.
I noticed before I put her in storage for the winter, that I was starting to get that "bearing squeak" (as my Dad used to say) from the front driver's side wheel. I just figured that most likely the original bearings are in the there and if I had to swap out one side, I might as well do the other also. Either way, I wont know for sure until spring when I take them out for a look.
Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:54 PM
  #10  
chip-powell's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Thanks guys. Once again you have saved me lots of time and hassle (not to mention money). I just ordered both sets of front inner and outer wheel bearings and new grease seals from Rock Auto. Even with shipping, it wound up costing less than one wheel bearing from Fusick.
Old Nov 25, 2014 | 03:12 AM
  #11  
1970cs's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,330
From: Grand Ledge, MI
The part stores you mentioned are not great sources! Usually you get better quality people at NAPA or Carquest. I never had the wrong part from NAPA of course my people have been behind the counter for over 20 years.

As far as bearing and races, knock out the races and get the numbers off the bearings and races and then you know if your getting the right pieces.

Another thought, if you have a farm implement dealer they have bearing number interchanges in the computers.

Also x3 on reusing your old stuff if it's in good condition why not? I just repacked my originals for the second time on my 70 just about 3 months ago.

Pat
Old Nov 25, 2014 | 04:30 AM
  #12  
MDchanic's Avatar
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As far as new vs old bearings, I agree with everyone else that if the old ones are good you should clean and repack them and keep them. You've just bought replacements for a fairly trivial sum, so when you take it apart, if the old ones look good, you can put them on the shelf for next time and not feel bad about it.

When looking at the old bearings, look for obvious wear, such as any rough spots anywhere, and for blue areas, especially on the races (can be harder to see on the rollers) - if you see any of that, they're shot.

The races come right out with a long punch and a BFH, and the new ones will just drop in if you leave them in the freezer for a while first.

- Eric
Old Nov 25, 2014 | 06:57 AM
  #13  
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From: Land of Taxes
Look to see if you have a Bearing Distributors Inc (BDI) in your area. (Or Google and order on line). Call with the bearing, race and seal numbers. Tell them you want made in USA not offshore. It will cost you a grand total of a whole $12 more for USA vs chineasium and that's delivered to your front door.
Dont know why they push the offshore crap at you first vs giving the choice. But I asked and the above was the result.
All the big box places only carry chineasium around here. Wont do that to American Muscle.
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