My car : 1958 Olds 88.

The power steering lid reads "use type-A automatic transmission fluid only"
I've just been using ATF, as I can't seem to find Type-A. the other day I changed my leaking lines, re-gasketed the reservoir, and filled with ATF. Now the pump is noisy. Sounds empty. but it's full. Also looks like the ATF is boiling. It seems hotter then it should be as well.

Any suggestions what to run for power steering fluid?

Also was wanting to know what oils everyone is using for Engine, Tranny, Diff.

I've just been using ATF in the tranny

SAE 80 Gear oil in the diff

and Castrol Syntec 5-30 in the engine with a bottle of zinc additive.


Thanks for any input.

 

I think the 5w30 is a bit thin in these older motors, especially with the warm weather coming and also if it is an older original or older rebuilt motor there will be some wear on the bearing surfaces and running thicker oil could be beneficial. I like to run Rotella 15w40 because the higher zinc plus a half bottle of zinc additive. But recently I heard that they have slowly started reducing zinc levels in diesel oils due to the cats being used as of late. Also I like to run 10w40 usually dino oil like Valvoline or Pennzoil with zddp or risoline zinc additive for peace of mind. Mind you the rotella is high in detergents so if you have any older original motor with alot of sludge build up it may not be the best oil to use, since it may dislodge sludge and grime which could get into your oil pump or worst clog a pushrod, lifter or oil galley. Best of luck to you but personally I would stick with a 10w40 or at the very least 10w30. gOOD LUCK

 

I've always used Dextron ATF and have no problems ever,. It sounds to me that you may have a gasket leak and are sucking in a little air around the base or the bearing has given it up or beings you just replaced your lines make sure they aren't lose on the low pressure side, hi pressure side would usually leak if that happens. Generally if you do a repair and new problems unexpectedly happen back track and recheck what you have done..

As far as oil I use a zinc additive and a good 10/30 or 10/40 standard dino oil with no problems. I did switch to a synthetic oil once and my car started leaking from most all of the gaskets that are hard to get at so I'm back to dino oil. My car is a driver /show car and oil leaks drive me crazy, it always has to be paper trained in the garaged anyway but there was a definite change in fluid loss with the synthetics...Just my thoughts ....Lost in the fifties ..Tedd

 

Thanks guys.

 

Walmart even carries type A trans fluid around here. I use it in my boat trans.
Rotella in non-roller cam motors. High zinc/phosphorus. I contacted Shell, they confirmed levels and that they have not changed it.
GL4 in brass synchro and GL5 in other manual trans.
80 90 gear lube in the diff. GM limited slip additive where needed.

 

I know a lot of guys run ATF in there power steering pump, but I always stick with power steering fluid myself. Not the easiest stuff to find, but NAPA has it. I agree 5-30W oil is a bit thin for older engines and usually go with with 10-40W. 5-30W oil is what most newer cars are designed for and Pennzoil has a good rebate going going right now on there Platinum syn. Guy on the Corvette Forum reported this as a Wallmart only deal, so rushed out and got some. $23 bucks for a 5 qt jug, with $10 mail in rebate. If you go to the Pennzoil site, the rebate is good anywhere till months end.

 

Thanks Garys 68, I'll have to check next time I hit up Walmart.

And it 10-30W that I was using for the car, the truck gets 5w30,

 

I absolutely do not understand the fascination with synthetic oils in the older cars. Any engine with a flat tappet cam needs zinc-PERIOD. I know I know,some guys use it with no problems and they are damn lucky. If you have any cork gaskets on the engine,synthetic will run right through them. This has been debated over and over again but the older engines need the zinc.

 

To agree with the others, in general, older cars all used 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. If they were worn, you'd use 20w50.

For racing, people would usually use single-weight oils, like SAE 30.

- Eric

 

If I recall correctly, SAE 30 was the standard for Olds engines in the 60's.

 

From the 1961 Service Manual:



- Eric

 

I use Rotella T in my Olds as well. I can get it pretty cheap at Sam's Club.

I think the most important thing is that you change your oil regularly. You could use Wal Mart brand oil and it would work fine as long as you change it regularly and use a new filter.

 

Acell Brand Oil(actually stocked at Walmart) has between 800-900 ppm of Zinc in it and is recommended for cars built prior to 1986. I know many of the boutique oils contain 1200ppm, but in my car, a stockish 72 cutlass without a hi-po motor does not warrant botique oil. Accel seems to be higher zinc content than many of the others on the shelf. It also seems to be one of the cheapest... Interesting. I'm trying it at my next oil change(soon).

I alternate between Bosch filters and Napa gold(WIX) filters at every oil change. The bosch ones, my oil is still amber colored after almost 3500 miles. Seems like it's probably worth the extra $5. My oil was always black at 2800-3000 miles before. Interesting.

I add the rislone engine treatment once and a while too. Was using the STP additive for a long time, but see no difference without it. Close family friend used to swear by it... who knows.

 

What did Shell say the level of zinc in the Rotella T 15W40 was? Lats time I checked it was 1200ppm. I have been running it for years along with some ProLong in gas and diesels.

If you like a higher end oil Schaeffer and Brad Penn are great especially in the race car with stiff valve springs on a flat tappet cam.

I have been using the Shaeffer in all my heavy equipment. Real good product and worth every penny. You dont change it until they tell you through their analysis program of course. Schaeffer has everything from all types of grease to HD hydraulic fluid. Their hydraulic fluid allows things to run up to 20*F cooler over standard fluid. I use this in power steering pumps too.


HA LOOK HOW MANY POSTS I HAVE!!!

 

IIRC, it was still around 1200ppm. You can email Shell through their website and confirm. They responded the same day.
The Ford 427s in my boat are solid lifter and hold 10 quarts each. Generator is also solid, holds another 4 quarts. The rotella is the best deal (especially when you need 6 gallons) for high zinc.

 

I like 15-40 diesel engine oil and have a supply of 5 gallon pails of Delo 400 in the better CI4+ formula that doesn't meet CJ, the newer low emissions spec for trucks with cats and traps. Since I plan to trade my truck, by far the bigger user of this oil, I have enough for about 200 years of use in the Olds, or will end up selling some.

 

I use Valvoline VR1 (non synthetic) 10W30 in my 442 with a NAPA Gold (Wix) filter

 

I use Quaker State "defy" a synthetic blend oil with 1200 ppm zddp. It is an "SL" rated oil, 10-30 weight. I'm using this in my freshly built 403 with a mild cam after dumping the Joe Gibbs break-in oil at 250 miles. Have about a thousand miles on it now. Plenty of oil pressure with an HV oil pump even with 100 degree temps and Ac here in the Phoenix area. According to QS they claim; "The proprietary low volatility ZDDP technology used in Quaker State Defy motor oil significantly reduces the amount of volatile phosphorus, while retaining its antiwear protective behaviour and antioxidant performance. Quaker State Defy has a ZDDP composition of 1200ppm, a more than sufficient amount to stand up to the most aggressive engine profiles."
Engine oil, as thin as possible, as thick as necessary........Just my 2 cents worth........

 

I'm not sure anyone should use the Quaker State Defy. Being partially synthetic, older seals may be prone to start leaking when used.

 

On rebuilt engines, like my example, there are no "older seals", they have been replaced. I believe for the most part, "the synthetic oil causing seals to leak" myth ranks right up there with the mythical solid main bearing webs on the 403's and the Cutlass Supreme engine offset myth. I have used full synthetic in engines with well over 150,000 miles without any leakage problems. I'm assuming the seals in question would be the rear main, the harmonic balancer seal and the umbrella valve seals, every thing else that keeps the oil in are just gaskets. Older worn seals need to replaced, regardless of what type of oil is used. I do not know of any company that makes seals or gaskets that aren't compatible with synthetic oil.

 

Hey if it's on the internet it must be true. I agree with you on the worn seals issue, but since a lot of these cars still have the original seals in them they leak. Therefore with the addition of synthetic oil they tend to leak ummmm worse, or in places that didn't leak yet, that much is true.

 

On the power steering issue. I think your problem is more related to air trapped in the system than type of fluid. Try jacking the car up and with the engine running turn the steering from lock to lock several times. I would be willing to bet there is an air bubble trapped and needs to work its way out. Keep checking the fluid because as the air escapes you will need to add more. Type of fluid had more to do with seal comparability than anything.