Right now in the im running Valvoline 5w30 high mileage synthetic blend in my 394. it runs good, doesn't overheat or anything, but what weight should I really be running? any particular brand I should be aware of? I know some have zinc additives such and the like. Thanks

 

The service manual for your car calls for 10W-30 oil if operated above freezing and 5W-20 if operated below, although my guess is 10W-30 would work fine for you year round unless temperatures get below 0 degrees F, and the 5W-30 you're now running is just fine.

I'd put that in plus a container of STP Oil Treatment to get the needed zinc additive (ZDDP), and you'll be fine. There is no reason to overthink this.


I've been putting 10W-30 in my '67 Delta 88's 425 for five years now and run it all day long without a problem. I put in the STP as well.

 

Thanks man. yea I had read something like that in my manual too, since its getting warmer out ill put in the 10-30 get it ready for the summertime. maybe a Purolator filter too. So add the stp oil treat with zinc, gotcha. I also replaced like a half qt with marvel myst oil last time so this time ill run all 10-30 hi-miles synth blend with stp treat. thanks

 

Or you can just run an oil that has zinc already in it. Lately I have been running Rotella T 15-40 which is a diesel type oil and can be found most everywhere in my area.

You might do a search on this subject, there are a bunch of threads that beat this subject to death....Tedd

 

the 15-40 seems a bit heavy, although im sure it runs fine. im debating between the two. probably helps it run a little cooler in summertime temps when sitting in traffic and such, and would probably slow up the slight drip I got under the rear main area.

I just don't know though, are there any drawbacks to using the heavier weight oil?

is there a better brand of oil that has a lighter weight with all the good stuff already in it?

I know some guys swear by royal purple, but when I ran full synthetic my tiny leak suddenly became much more visible, but has slowed up signifigantly since I did a few gaskets and the oil plug, and ran a conventional blend instead of full synth now its just one small drip in the rear main area. im guessing id get the same result with royal purp and leave a little purple puddle behind over time. what do yous think of the stuff?

 

Just use the oil called for by manufacturer of your car and don't worry about it. I wouldn't even waste my money on synthetic oil, assuming it costs more. Synthetics didn't exist back in the day these cars were new, and these cars ran just fine on the oils in existence then.

Put in a good brand of 10W-30 or 5W-30, add the STP, and get on with life. I don't know how much Royal Purple costs, but if it costs more than an equivalent amount of Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, or whatever, it's too much.

As I said above, it's easy to overthink something like this, and you've already wasted more brain cells on it than necessary.

 

I would use VR1 racing oil in a 10w/30 weight, silver bottle. It has everything you need in an oil, so no extra additives required. I like the Wix or Purolator filters.


Ted the diesel oils don not have the required wear pkg any more due to the newer diesels using cats.

 

Be careful, you're starting out with a synthetic blend, you may want to think twice about switching back to a dino oil.

 

You don't say how many miles your engine has, unless it is newly rebuilt 5w anything is too thin. Forget about synthetic, run the Rotella 15w40 with a good filter and change it regularly. Also forget about zinc additives, a lot of companies making money on misinformation.

 

I have always in the past run VR1 dino oil. It is difficult finding 10w 30, so I would order it through one of the national auto parts chains. This is too much of a hassle anymore. I am running this year Lucas 10w 40 Hot Rod and Classic Car Oil. Jegs has it, free shipping $30.00 for 5 qt jug.

 

Really? Please enlighten us. I've heard nothing but the opposite from a number of people in the business whom I trust greatly. I put a container of STP Oil Treatment in with the new oil at every oil change.

Here's one article:

http://www.sherbournemews.com/oil.pdf


Here's another:

http://classiccars.about.com/od/main...l-Additive.htm

 

Lucas claims to have 2100ppm zinc which is pretty substantial.

 

Valvoline 10-30 VR1 with a NAPA 1049 filter. No need for additives. I read somewhere that the NAPA filter is actually made by WIX.

 

[QUOTE=jaunty75;678741]Really? Please enlighten us. I've heard nothing but the opposite from a number of people in the business whom I trust greatly. I put a container of STP Oil Treatment in with the new oil at every oil change.

X2 The local race engine builder has told me the need for zinc is legit. He knows his stuff. I'd like to hear otherwise, but I have read a lot about this subject and never found anything contrary to flat tappets needing it. I use ZDDP. I did not know STP oil treatment has zinc in it.

Regarding the Rotella diesel oil, make sure what you are using still has zinc in it. It very well may not, and just because it is for a diesel doesn't mean anything.

 

It most certainly does. I happened to have an extra container on hand because they were selling it get two for the price of one the last time I was in Autozone.

 

I must be getting old. I didn't even know STP came in a bottle like that. I only remember the cardboard cans.

 

Well I finally got around to getting some oil, after a few other minor issues with the car were solved. I got 10 w30 mobil 1 high mileage synth blend, and a zddp additive I found that I think I prefer over the stp recommended earlier. im probably going to do the oil change in 20 minutes or so from now.

The stp additive ive found to be very viscous and contain a lot of other things that I may not really be looking for. Instead I picked up this stuff called Rislone 3x concentrated zddp engine oil supplement. it doesn't have all that extra thickening stuff that the stp has, and im just going to run the mobil 10w30 and this zddp additive. Have any of you heard of or used this product before?

 

Used lots of Rislone engine treatment back in the day, good for keeping the $100.00 55 Chevy's with worn engines going a bit longer. Never used their newer ZDDP additive though.

 

Well it says "Engine oil supplement with zinc treatment, 3x concentrated zddp" and 'makes newer oils work in older engines', and it wasn't a thick honey-like additive like stp, although a little more $. seemed like the right stuff to get at the time. I don't really trust reviews on a brands website, so I figure get some oldsmobile reviews.

 

Yes, but it doesn't actually say how much ZDDP is in it, does it?

That's the problem: It seems like none of them do.

In this thread on the exact same subject from last week, I mentioned the minimal research I performed, and advised using 1¼ to 1½ ounces of Lucas TB-Zinc-Plus Break-in Oil Additive to get you to the recommended 1,100-1,200ppm of ZDDP.
I also noted that STP refuses to disclose the amount of ZDDP in their additive, and the one (unsubstantiated) reference to an analysis seems to indicate that it might barely get the ZDDP where you want it to be.

If anyone would care to investigate this further, I think we would all be interested in the answers.

- Eric

 

well on the rislone website barsproducts.com they claim that they can take an average 5 qts of oil with 700 ppm zinc in it and raise it to 1500+ zinc/phosphorous levels. so its not exactly scientific numbers, but its what Bars claims this rislone 3x concentrate product can do. what do you recommend MDchanic?

 

I cannot make absolute recommendations, because I don't know any facts with certainty.

The Rislone site says, "Adding Rislone 3X Concentrated ZDDP Engine Oil Supplement with Zinc Treatment to regular SN rated motor oil will boost the oil’s zinc and phosphorus levels to between 1,600 and 1,800 ppm."
A different page says, "In passenger car and light truck engines, use one bottle for a 4 to 6 quart system. For larger systems, stationary engines and diesel trucks, use 1 bottle for every 5 quarts of oil capacity."

This is the first company that I've seen actually put in writing the amount of ZDDP in an additive, so if I had to recommend a particular additive, I would suggest this one.

- Eric

 

Not so,The old Rotella T had 1140 units zddp the new had 1240 units, they actually increased it but that alone does not make it or any oil good or bad. There is so many other ingredients in oil that determine how it it preforms and some additives actually degrade an oil by adding it, some it helps. Some race oils preform (test well) when new but degrade quickly as time goes on , they were never intended to be run 5000 miles like conventional oil but be changed after every 500 race miles.

Like so many products oil is a compromise, read up on motor oil from an independent source or sources and see if what said isn't true. There is a lot of BS put out by most every oil company and more oil is sold by the marketing division than the engineering department. Just my thoughts....Tedd

 

I run three different kinds. All depends on what I'm using the engine for. I use valvoline VR1 (on the cheaper side) Brad Penny (good stuff have to change more then stander oil as it does not have all the cleaners in it) and finally I use Royal Purple HPS

 

I put Mobil 10-40 high mileage non- synthetic in the 69. Put it in the 1991 Grand Wagoneer too. Both seem to work well on it. However, I will be changing the 69s oil again shortly as the PO seemed to think he never had to change it in 25 years as he seldom used it.

I will NOT put a full or part synthetic in any vehicle I own., Far too thin for it's rated viscosity. Makes rockers rattle and other engine noises I don't care for.

The 15-40 is a good choice if your in a warm place. If you use this viscosity, make sure it doesn't get too cold. I used the Delvac in the semi I owned. Seemed to use less than the Rotella.

 

I used to use the ZDDP additive, but it got to be a hassle when the car would be down a quart and I'd have to use a partial bottle. It seemed I was always adding it a little bit here and there. I since have switched to Amsoil 10W-30 with Zinc, and I am happy with it.

 

Ted, I use the for street use VR1, it has a longer lasting friction package than the racing only. You are correct on the racing only, as it was meant for short term use.


I use this:



Do not use this: