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Yesterday cleaned and polished front and rear bumpers, and cleaned/polished/waxed SSI's. Today cleaned and detailed the exterior body. Tomorrow I will clean and treat vinyl top and interior vinyl and she'll be ready for another show. Had her out to 13 events already this season. Love car season!
Today I dropped a 394 into my 1964 Dynamic 88, and hooked up the exhaust. What's up with the spacers and springs? Serious hassle, hooking up the passenger side exhaust! At least it's tight..
When I lived in illannoy we had a show every day of the week. I had a few cars then and would go to nearly all the shows. I would bring my riding buddy Tobin. He is featured in a yootoob vid. Loved that dude. Now I'm residing in Indiana. While I enjoy this area, it isn't at the income level of illannoy. If your car doesn't have rust and has a good muffler, you got it going on.
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When I lived in illannoy we had a show every day of the week. I had a few cars then and would go to nearly all the shows. I would bring my riding buddy Tobin. He is featured in a yootoob vid. Loved that dude.
Your car is absolutely beautiful!
Tobin was a Trooper with Dad putting the pedal to the metal! Our pets are much better than we are. Thanks for the compliment on my car, she's a dandy and I really enjoy the time spent keeping her looking good.
Wanted to follow-up from my post yesterday. Got out to the garage early before it gets too warm. Cleaned and treated the vinyl roof with 303 Aerospace Protectant. Then treated the dash pad, door panels, and upholstery with 303 also. I love the 303 Aerospace Protectant for vinyl for 2 reasons, it's advertised to have alot of UV protection, and when applied as directed does not leave a greasy film like some other products.
Thanks! Ya, it's good stuff! I see you have a black vinyl roof on your '68. I'd suggest you give it a try. I also forgot to mention it lasts quite awhile between applications, even the roof that is subjected to the sun and dust/dirt.
Spent the better part of the week doing it, I installed new bezels and repainted the black on the trunk trim piece. Also had to redo the black and silver on the new bezels. I feel like it turned out pretty good.
Spent the better part of the week doing it, I installed new bezels and repainted the black on the trunk trim piece. Also had to redo the black and silver on the new bezels. I feel like it turned out pretty good.
James - The bezels look perfect! I never get tired of seeing pics of your car, or your work.
Finally finished putting new springs and shocks in the rear of my 1964 Dynamic 88 convertible. I think the stance is substantially improved. I actually drove the car 10 miles- it's still unregistered so I had to slink around the back roads, but this thing absolutely needed to be driven.... here's a link
Hi guys - I've had my car out to 2 non-judged cruise-ins and 2 judged shows since I last posted on this thread on June 12th. With 2 judged shows coming up this weekend it was in need of a top to bottom cleaning with the exception of the interior. Got out early this morning and cleaned/polished the rear bumper, cleaned/detailed the hood, rear deck lid, and all body panels, and cleaned the vinyl top. Still got the front bumper to polish, the wheels, and engine detailing to get done before Saturday. I've got a good jump on it, and I'll have her ready to go.
Here's a story from the 90s. I had a 69 442 W-30 car at the time. I went to my first car show as an entrant. There was a 69 Chevelle next to me with rust holes. The guy was going on and on about how he was going to get at least 2nd place. I gently told him his car didn't have what it took. His answer? "My club is here today and it's my turn to win at least 2nd." I packed up my stuff and left.
This was on the south side of chicago. Shows are not what they're cracked up to be.
Today I limped my '64 Dynamic 88 home, it broke down half way to what would have been a fun cruise night. It's been really hot and maybe the car was heating up- temperature gauge read around 200. Climbing a hill, I lost power. As I got out of the gas, the car came back to idle, but when I pushed for acceleration, it died out. When I got out of the gas (lifted my foot) it came back to an idle. I was able to limp it up the hill and it rolled down the other side, but I thought I should turn it around and go home.
A kind person who happens to be building a 57 Chevy in his garage came along and we went to his house, just a minute up the road. We checked the car out together- it sounds fine at idle. So we came up with 3 distinct possibilities 1) fuel pump is not making fuel pressure, needs a rebuild. 2) coil is breaking down under load, due to the heat, or the replacement coil I put in wants 12V to the positive side. I would have to find the ballast resistor and test it, or bypass it, or put the old coil back in and see what happens. I could also put the points back in, replace the new magnetic pick up I installed. 3) vapor lock- which I've heard of but really I don't understand what is meant by "vapor lock", but basically lack of fuel pressure at the carburetor.
I'm leaning towards a fuel issue- fuel pump or clogged/dirty fuel lines, crud in the gas tank because it doesn't smell like it's fueling with no spark. I'm thinking I'd smell the fuel if it was dumping fuel without spark. I got it home by going really easy on the gas pedal. In fact, as long as I didn't get too heavy into the gas, it ran fine. And where I've driven the car a few times now and this is the first time it had this problem, I'm thinking it's a fuel pump/fuel filter/fuel line problem.
Definitely a bummer. I don't know where/how the fuel filter is installed on your car. You might think of removing it entirely as a test (only). Just a thought. They more often fail on demand (acceleration) than at idle where just enough fuel is available for the idle circuit.
Here's an easy test for your fuel pump.
Get an empty 2 liter Pepsi bottle and a couple of feet of rubber hose that just slips over the fuel line snugly.
Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and slip the hose over the end of the fuel line.
Put the other end of the hose in the bottle.
Disconnect a coil wire, so there's no spark.
Crank the engine over for 30 seconds.
You should have about 1/3 to 1/2 of a bottle of gasoline.
If you installed a Pertronix unit, you must have a switched 12 volts to the unit.
You won't' find a ballast resistor. The stock wire to coil + is the ballast.
It is a high resistance wire.
I used to work for a 2500 acre vegatable farm here in FL.
We had 30 Datsun and Nissan forklifts scattered around the farm.
They all had points ignition.
Someone thought we could save time and money by switching them all to Pertronix.
I spent more time replacing Pertronix units than I would have replacing points.
And when a Pertronix unit died, it died right there, in the middle of the loading dock.
And that's where I had to fix it.
Instead of the shop where I did periodic tune-ups.
Today I limped my '64 Dynamic 88 home, it broke down half way to what would have been a fun cruise night. It's been really hot and maybe the car was heating up- temperature gauge read around 200. Climbing a hill, I lost power. As I got out of the gas, the car came back to idle, but when I pushed for acceleration, it died out. When I got out of the gas (lifted my foot) it came back to an idle. I was able to limp it up the hill and it rolled down the other side, but I thought I should turn it around and go home.
A kind person who happens to be building a 57 Chevy in his garage came along and we went to his house, just a minute up the road. We checked the car out together- it sounds fine at idle. So we came up with 3 distinct possibilities 1) fuel pump is not making fuel pressure, needs a rebuild. 2) coil is breaking down under load, due to the heat, or the replacement coil I put in wants 12V to the positive side. I would have to find the ballast resistor and test it, or bypass it, or put the old coil back in and see what happens. I could also put the points back in, replace the new magnetic pick up I installed. 3) vapor lock- which I've heard of but really I don't understand what is meant by "vapor lock", but basically lack of fuel pressure at the carburetor.
I'm leaning towards a fuel issue- fuel pump or clogged/dirty fuel lines, crud in the gas tank because it doesn't smell like it's fueling with no spark. I'm thinking I'd smell the fuel if it was dumping fuel without spark. I got it home by going really easy on the gas pedal. In fact, as long as I didn't get too heavy into the gas, it ran fine. And where I've driven the car a few times now and this is the first time it had this problem, I'm thinking it's a fuel pump/fuel filter/fuel line problem.
So disappointing.
Super easy fix. Don't drive the car when it's hot outside. s/
Near to completing "survivor revival" 72 D88 ragtop, with all the big stuff, 455/400/12 bolt 2.73 .... temp switch went bad, decided to put a real gage in it, snuck it in open dash area, have yet to perm. mount it, alarm buzzer hanging down to.. (old original hearing!), going to set it @ 235-40 waiting for some 3M 2 way tape, 1 small hole for wires through side panel rather than wood grain.
Cleaned up hood light, next post will be hood pad.
Temp gage mock up
Mouse/squirl **** corrosion, bead blast and shot some old silver header paint.
New hood pad and rumor has it, varmint proofing ! took another hour or two, shot some rust converter on some bad areas. Hood prep, will make a 10-course campfire pan if I trash car !!, old muffler in background Add some tin foil, hope to keep critters from ever coming back New hood pad, og. pad was wasted by varmint's
All dash lights now in working order !! including radio , glove box and clock lamps, even the ignition key hole lamp and the small green lights that 56 Olds used to locate the double ash trays !! since all courtesy lights including footwell lights operate she now lights up like a Christmas tree !!! now on to the next minor project repairing the minor damage bottom of the kick panels where they meet the carpet. I'm considering just using the vinyl door guard edge strips they sell in rolls, not factory but better than the ragged edge look. Any opinions ?
Some hi tec for the rocket!!! hidden USB charging port, also USB input for BT radio if needed.
Removed metal ashtray and fabbed an alum mount, couple of holes in plastic housing.
Cigar lighter is too high in dash and didn't want adapter and cord hanging. Driver ash tray Now is a hidden USB charger
Yesterday:
spent a bunch of money on parts and changed oil.
Today: making cup holder/console tray.
It is wood. It isn't the best but in 62 I guess folks didn't drink when they drove. Or have wallets or cell phones.😁
Eventually want to mount temp, OP and volt gauges in back side.
Pics when done
Two of my cars are parked at home after attending the Street Machine Nationals in St. Paul, Minnesota. Lots of admirers and picture takers at a show that had 6-7000 cars and lasted three days. Wild Customs and street rods to Rat Rods to beautiful modified stock and stock cars and trucks.
1966 Toronado Delux
Two of my cars are parked at home after attending the Street Machine Nationals in St. Paul, Minnesota. Lots of admirers and picture takers at a show that had 6-7000 cars and lasted three days. Wild Customs and street rods to Rat Rods to beautiful modified stock and stock cars and trucks.
1966 Toronado Delux
I installed a Cold-Case aluminum radiator in my 75 Hurst. When we were coming back from the nationals in Springfield. it was running near the 215-220 mark with the air on. That is way too warm for me. I know these cars started running warmer about this time when they installed the first catalytic converters. I have true dual with twin high flow cats but it is way too warm. The Cold-Case was a nice fit and a drop-in. The only thing I had to do was move the top transmission cooler line up a little bit since it is just a little higher on the new radiator. It just required bending the line a little. I took it for a test ride a short while ago and was pleased. It was 102° and I had the AC on. I ran it 80 mph for a pretty good stretch. The temp gauge only has100, 210 and 250 marked so you kind of have to guess at whether you are at 190 or 200. Running 80 I was near 195. After I pulled off and caught a light it creeped up to 210. When I headed home I ran 70 and it cooled down to about 190-195. The old radiator was the original 4-core and who knows if it had been cleaned out in the last 49 years. I am very happy with the Cold-Case radiator. It appears very well made (yes, it is made in China) and gets good reviews. It did what I needed it to do.
Last edited by redoldsman; Aug 10, 2024 at 08:46 AM.
Checked compression and oil/trans pressure on my new (to me) 71. Numbers came out absolutely perfect. Debating on how to build the engine moving forward
